Copper Nickel 90/10 Brake line

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occasional demons
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Copper Nickel 90/10 Brake line

Post by occasional demons » Tue Jul 10, 2012 11:15 pm

So far this stuff is pretty impressive. It bends and forms easily, like copper tubing.

That is the plus, and the minus. For short runs, it isn't much of a problem, but for long runs, say 15 feet, you have to watch how you handle it to keep it from sagging.

It does polish up very nicely.

The old line and the Cu Ni side by side.

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The Label on the package:

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One other downside, is it is pricey, about double the cost of steel lines. Around $50 for 25 feet. (I paid $46 due to the guy misquoting the price. :D )

But if you are going to the trouble of replacing your lines, and bending new, it is a worthwhile investment. Most newer cars run the line(s) above the fuel tank, so dropping the tank is a must, if you are doing it right. It is way too much work to have to re do in three years or less, using the "painted" steel tubing the sell.


And it is stronger than steel tubing.
Current production steel tubes passed the 60-cycle requirement but failed well before 120 cycles. The 90-10 copper-nickel tubes completed 200 cycles with essentially no reduction of their original burst strength.


(3,000 psi)

http://www.copper.org/applications/auto ... _tube.html

AutoZone/Advance Part Number: CNC-325 same price either place.
Bill
Olha Koba, a psychologist in Kyiv, said that “anger and hate in this situation is a normal reaction and important to validate.” But it is important to channel it into something useful, she said, such as making incendiary bombs out of empty bottles.
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester

NickKo
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Re: Copper Nickel 90/10 Brake line

Post by NickKo » Wed Jul 11, 2012 12:07 am

occasional demons wrote: The Label on the package:

Image

One other downside, is it is pricey, about double the cost of steel lines. Around $50 for 25 feet. (I paid $46 due to the guy misquoting the price. :D )

But if you are going to the trouble of replacing your lines, and bending new, it is a worthwhile investment.
I agree.
$50 is not a bad investment, even for a Neon !! :)

Thanks for posting this information, and the part numbers. :thumbup: It will come in handy....


- Nick
-1998 2-dr SOHC MTX= 57mm TB; Maddog STS
-2000 Ply.LX w/MTX = Maddog STS; CAI; 2.5 exh.; 60mm T/B
-2001 ATX w/Syked PCM + Magnum header
-2001 ACR w/SRT T/B bored out to 55mm

Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon till it Dies" Club #000009

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Danteneon
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Post by Danteneon » Wed Jul 11, 2012 4:08 pm

How would this compare to stainless steel?
If I could just figure out how to meld the Outback and the Neon into one car...

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occasional demons
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Post by occasional demons » Wed Jul 11, 2012 5:54 pm

Price wise, about the same. Not sure on the burst strength. I'm sure stainless wouldn't work too well on most home use $25 flare tools either. Hand benders, yeah it would do fine, it is making the double flare that might get you.

Stainless is much tougher to form in that tight of a bend. I have seen the heavier duty flaring tools, they start at ~$200+ that's what kept me from going with stainless, I almost bought a coil from Summit, then I thought about the flaring end of it.

Craptastic. I didn't want to go with mild steel, after seeing what my day's work turned into on the Sundance.

I didn't really know 90/10 existed, until the guy at AZ said something about it. Glad he did.
Bill
Olha Koba, a psychologist in Kyiv, said that “anger and hate in this situation is a normal reaction and important to validate.” But it is important to channel it into something useful, she said, such as making incendiary bombs out of empty bottles.
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester

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Danteneon
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Post by Danteneon » Wed Jul 11, 2012 5:57 pm

Good to know. Yeah, stainless can be a PITA when it come to bending and flaring. Thanks for the info :thumbup:
If I could just figure out how to meld the Outback and the Neon into one car...

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NickKo
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Post by NickKo » Wed Jul 11, 2012 10:39 pm

Danteneon wrote:How would this compare to stainless steel?
I would think that SS, would be a LOT harder.



occasional demons wrote:Not sure on the burst strength. I'm sure stainless wouldn't work too well on most home use $25 flare tools either. Hand benders, yeah it would do fine, it is making the double flare that might get you.

Stainless is much tougher to form in that tight of a bend. I have seen the heavier duty flaring tools, they start at ~$200+ that's what kept me from going with stainless, I almost bought a coil from Summit, then I thought about the flaring end of it.
Yes - I actually have done a double flare in Stainless !!!

The first time, didn't work so well.
My double flare ended up leaking. :( I did it right the 2nd time.

I should mention, that putting the double flare on stainless, ended up BREAKING one of my flaring tools !! :shock: ( A set from NAPA )
Fortunately, I had an old flaring tool laying around, that I inherited from my father.
I don't recall who the manufacturer was, or what is it made from, but it was able to handle flaring SS without breaking. :thumbup:
I'll have to look it up.



Danteneon wrote:Good to know. Yeah, stainless can be a PITA when it come to bending and flaring. Thanks for the info :thumbup:
QFT !!


- Nick
-1998 2-dr SOHC MTX= 57mm TB; Maddog STS
-2000 Ply.LX w/MTX = Maddog STS; CAI; 2.5 exh.; 60mm T/B
-2001 ATX w/Syked PCM + Magnum header
-2001 ACR w/SRT T/B bored out to 55mm

Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon till it Dies" Club #000009

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