Comp Cams 400

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Jerome Adams
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Post by Jerome Adams » Mon Jul 18, 2011 7:22 pm

I know the comp 400 is advertised to work up to 6800 but it seems like it has a lot more pull in it when it hits the limiter...going to have to start saving for MS so I can rev to 7500 or so, think that would help a lot. It would also help staying in the power after that shift.

I noticed the same thing on the 1-2...falls further out of the power now.
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ZeroChad
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Post by ZeroChad » Mon Jul 18, 2011 7:58 pm

Jerome Adams wrote:I know the comp 400 is advertised to work up to 6800 but it seems like it has a lot more pull in it when it hits the limiter...going to have to start saving for MS so I can rev to 7500 or so, think that would help a lot. It would also help staying in the power after that shift.

I noticed the same thing on the 1-2...falls further out of the power now.
I wouldn't push it too far past 7k. With mag springs and the 400 I was getting valve float at 7500. I thought it was a rev limiter issue at first, but it turned out the be float.
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Post by NickKo » Mon Jul 18, 2011 10:46 pm

ZeroChad wrote:
Jerome Adams wrote:I know the comp 400 is advertised to work up to 6800 but it seems like it has a lot more pull in it when it hits the limiter...going to have to start saving for MS so I can rev to 7500 or so, think that would help a lot. It would also help staying in the power after that shift.

I noticed the same thing on the 1-2...falls further out of the power now.
I wouldn't push it too far past 7k. With mag springs and the 400 I was getting valve float at 7500. I thought it was a rev limiter issue at first, but it turned out the be float.
Wow.
Based on this 'feedback', it sounds like advancing this cam during installation, would be the way to go.



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Post by vntned » Tue Jul 19, 2011 8:04 am

Yay got rid of the valvetrain noise. Turns out I had turned the exhaust side rocker shaft 180degrees upside down. Way better now. Cam pulls way better too.

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Post by occasional demons » Tue Jul 19, 2011 9:44 am

Ouch. Hopefully the lack of oil didn't do too much damage.
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Post by Jerome Adams » Tue Jul 19, 2011 10:37 am

I know what valve float is, but how do you know when it is occurring?
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Post by occasional demons » Tue Jul 19, 2011 11:50 am

Think soft rev limiter. :lol:
Bill
Olha Koba, a psychologist in Kyiv, said that “anger and hate in this situation is a normal reaction and important to validate.” But it is important to channel it into something useful, she said, such as making incendiary bombs out of empty bottles.
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Post by ZeroChad » Tue Jul 19, 2011 1:56 pm

^Yup..it would make a weird noise too. Probably from reversion.
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Jerome Adams
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Post by Jerome Adams » Tue Jul 19, 2011 4:55 pm

Hmmm....I may be getting a bit of valve float then. It doesn't happen all the time, but it will stumble kind of like hitting the rev limiter but doesn't quite sound or feel the same then I look down and I am at 5500 rpm.

I have the mag valve springs, I have read they need to be installed properly, but I had somebody else install them for me. How do you know if they are on correctly? I didn't think it would make that much of a difference...
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Post by Jerome Adams » Thu Sep 01, 2011 8:28 pm

background: When I put everything back on my timing was off (we guess it is more retarded than what the cam gear is indicating as I was get a P0016 with about 2° retard)...moved it to 0° on the cam gear (which isn't really 0) and the code went away so I left it alone...but it was a dog below 4k and would start to come on around 5K and pull hard (relative for my car) all the way up to redline and still feel like it had a lot more.

Today I advanced the cam gear about 2.5 cam degrees and now the powerband almost feels stock. My butt dyno is not calibrated, so I am hoping I am putting down more power than I was before, but at least now it doesn't feel like I am running a big ass turbo (lag)...and no P0016 so that is good.
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Post by occasional demons » Fri Sep 02, 2011 6:34 am

Jerome Adams wrote:
I have the mag valve springs, I have read they need to be installed properly, but I had somebody else install them for me. How do you know if they are on correctly? I didn't think it would make that much of a difference...
Didn't see this till now...
The closer spaced coils go to the bottom. That way the lighter mass of the wider spaced coils is reciprocating. Less chance of float.
Bill
Olha Koba, a psychologist in Kyiv, said that “anger and hate in this situation is a normal reaction and important to validate.” But it is important to channel it into something useful, she said, such as making incendiary bombs out of empty bottles.
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Jerome Adams
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Post by Jerome Adams » Tue Feb 28, 2012 9:09 pm

Once I got everything figured out and the computer worked itself out, I ended up putting down 144hp at the wheels on a mustang dyno (est. 165 hp on a dynojet according to the dyno operator)
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Post by gearbanger4 » Sun Jul 29, 2012 10:26 pm

The comp 400 actually sounds like the best "street" cam especially for a NGC car. I would love to try it out one day, great review! I just got the answer to one of my questions also ( thanks ZeroChad and Jerome) in regards to the valve float with mag springs.
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Jerome Adams
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Post by Jerome Adams » Wed Aug 01, 2012 8:29 pm

My mag springs are not installed correctly, some are upside down.
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Post by D-Railed_Neon » Mon Aug 06, 2012 12:07 pm

Jerome Adams wrote:My mag springs are not installed correctly, some are upside down.
HaZah!!!! i bet ya there is some power and some reaction time to be picked up by getting those springs in right. Ill be ordering a set of new springs in the next couple of months....let me know if ya want another set to reinstall correctly and Ill just double the order. :thumbup:


Anyone know or have experience with the comp 400 and boost?
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Post by Jerome Adams » Mon Aug 06, 2012 12:23 pm

The spring thing is probably minimal. I beleive Grrrteude is comp400 and asp kit (on of Erick's test subjects)
Jerome

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Post by occasional demons » Mon Aug 06, 2012 12:46 pm

Being upside down wouldn't effect power in most of our usable rpm range. Above 6700 maybe. They would just be closer to the regular springs in that respect.
Bill
Olha Koba, a psychologist in Kyiv, said that “anger and hate in this situation is a normal reaction and important to validate.” But it is important to channel it into something useful, she said, such as making incendiary bombs out of empty bottles.
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester

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Post by aceborn » Fri Aug 02, 2013 5:49 pm

I know the listed rpm range of the 400 is 2600-6400. But how high can you rev up the 400 and still make power with crane springs? What's its end point, where does it fall on its face?
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occasional demons
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Post by occasional demons » Fri Aug 02, 2013 7:53 pm

A lot depends on what other supporting mods you have, and the load on the engine.

I have no trouble hitting 6750 with just an '02 Magnum cam, head, header, Ghetto IM and 60mm TB - in first second and third is a bit more struggle. A 3.94 would make third easier...

Basically the rev limit is where it falls on it's face under light loads. I would say on a dyno, it is going to be relatively close to what they advertise, But in the real world, it is going to be in the taller gears, at speeds you probably shouldn't be doing on the street. :roll:
Bill
Olha Koba, a psychologist in Kyiv, said that “anger and hate in this situation is a normal reaction and important to validate.” But it is important to channel it into something useful, she said, such as making incendiary bombs out of empty bottles.
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester

aceborn
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Post by aceborn » Fri Aug 02, 2013 9:15 pm

They have tracks and drag strips to satisfy my speeding needs :D . But do you think having a 400 and 7000 or 7500 rev limiter would let the cam breath for those 600-1100 extra rpm's?

Anymore life in the cam if I do happen to be driving it like I stole it

Mods are: amm long runner, mag head, bbp mid length header and 11.1'ish bottom end.
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