Replacement LCA bushing options
-
- 2GN Member
- Posts: 180
- Joined: Mon Oct 31, 2011 9:20 pm
- Location: New Hampshire
Replacement LCA bushing options
Ok, so after replacing my vertical control arm bushings with OEM bushings less than 21k ago, I need to replace them again. I would like to replace the tie rods and ball joints while I am there. Is it worth dishing out the dough for the prothane replacement control arms from Modern or would the Moog replacement control arms work fine? I am leaning towards moog because they are cheap but I do not want to be replacing these in another 2 years. Thoughts?
Keep in mind, this is my daily so I can't really afford to have a long down time ie burning out bushings and whatnot.
Keep in mind, this is my daily so I can't really afford to have a long down time ie burning out bushings and whatnot.
if your not crazy lowered then go OEM again and since u said u dont have alot of time for down time then once again just go oem bushings.
have you seen these,
http://www.moogproblemsolver.com/moog/w ... _Sheet.pdf
they are new, only a hand full people have used them but i hear they are good.
have you seen these,
http://www.moogproblemsolver.com/moog/w ... _Sheet.pdf
they are new, only a hand full people have used them but i hear they are good.
Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon till it Dies" Club #000048
-
- 2GN Member
- Posts: 180
- Joined: Mon Oct 31, 2011 9:20 pm
- Location: New Hampshire
Well I do plan on lowering it when I replace the control arm bushings as I just bought some struts and springs. Anyway, I have seen those bushings and very much like their design. It is too bad they don't come pre-installed on their problem solver control arms.
I am leaning towards the Moog brand still as the cost for both control arms is equal to the cost of one OEM control arm.
I am leaning towards the Moog brand still as the cost for both control arms is equal to the cost of one OEM control arm.
-
- 2GN Member
- Posts: 754
- Joined: Tue Sep 25, 2007 9:15 pm
-
- 2GN Member
- Posts: 180
- Joined: Mon Oct 31, 2011 9:20 pm
- Location: New Hampshire
-
- Junior Admin
- Posts: 16126
- Joined: Sun Oct 24, 2004 8:53 pm
- Location: Baltimore, MD
- Contact:
I bought problem solvers from Moog. Been happy with them. That horrendous clunk went away because of the new bushings. Cheap labor to install them too.
When I asked my mechanic about it he said to get the problem solvers and replace the whole thing because it would cost a lot of labor to do just the bushings and would be cheaper in the long run.
Works for me
When I asked my mechanic about it he said to get the problem solvers and replace the whole thing because it would cost a lot of labor to do just the bushings and would be cheaper in the long run.
Works for me
-Frank
Member of Spork Racing
Forum issues: racer12306@2gn.org
Forum Behavior
Support your favorite forum, DONATE!
Member of Spork Racing
Forum issues: racer12306@2gn.org
Forum Behavior
Support your favorite forum, DONATE!
hmm i used energy suspension bushings and i've replaced my control arm bushings twice in 150K miles. The energy suspension bushings lasted 90K. In CT we have really rough roads too. Recently I got the prothane kit and I spend about $250 in total to have them purchased and installed.silverneontuner wrote:i am a licensed tech and we put moogs in everything we do... on avaerage we replace the control arm bushing once ever 2-5 years on average and our roads suck. my 2gn is lowered 2 inches and ive done them 3 times , cheap to do every couple years. Our cars are bad for sway bar bushings too.
2002 Neon SXT Sold
2006 EVO MR Weekend Warrior
2003 SRT 4 DD
-Kevin
-
- n00b
- Posts: 21
- Joined: Thu Sep 11, 2014 1:23 am
Re: Replacement LCA bushing options
I have put up video on youtube for installing the prothane front-c-arm bushings and lots of photos (which I can provide)ducktapetg wrote:Ok, so after replacing my vertical control arm bushings with OEM bushings less than 21k ago, I need to replace them again. I would like to replace the tie rods and ball joints while I am there. Is it worth dishing out the dough for the prothane replacement control arms from Modern or would the Moog replacement control arms work fine? I am leaning towards moog because they are cheap but I do not want to be replacing these in another 2 years. Thoughts?
Keep in mind, this is my daily so I can't really afford to have a long down time ie burning out bushings and whatnot.
The c-arms from Modern have their share of detractors. The energy suspension bushings require shaving down the c-arm metal.
The prothane bushings LAST along time.
The moog bushings material isn't polyurethane.
You could install the prothane poly just from my pix and video!!
-
- 2GN Member
- Posts: 180
- Joined: Mon Oct 31, 2011 9:20 pm
- Location: New Hampshire
-
- Junior Admin
- Posts: 20306
- Joined: Thu May 03, 2007 12:14 pm
- Location: Ashland Ohio
I have well over 100,000 on my ES bushings.
Bill
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCMOlha Koba, a psychologist in Kyiv, said that “anger and hate in this situation is a normal reaction and important to validate.” But it is important to channel it into something useful, she said, such as making incendiary bombs out of empty bottles.
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester
The Moog problem solvers didn't work that great when I installed them, maybe i got some defective ones? In any case, when installing them watch that the big washer doesn't bend when when torquing.
viewtopic.php?t=67769
viewtopic.php?t=67769
THANKS for posting this update !! I almost missed this.04R/T wrote:The Moog problem solvers didn't work that great when I installed them, maybe i got some defective ones? In any case, when installing them watch that the big washer doesn't bend when when torquing.
viewtopic.php?t=67769
- Nick
-1998 2-dr SOHC MTX= 57mm TB; Maddog STS
-2000 Ply.LX w/MTX = Maddog STS; CAI; 2.5 exh.; 60mm T/B
-2001 ATX w/Syked PCM + Magnum header
-2001 ACR w/SRT T/B bored out to 55mm
Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon till it Dies" Club #000009
-2000 Ply.LX w/MTX = Maddog STS; CAI; 2.5 exh.; 60mm T/B
-2001 ATX w/Syked PCM + Magnum header
-2001 ACR w/SRT T/B bored out to 55mm
Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon till it Dies" Club #000009
-
- n00b
- Posts: 21
- Joined: Thu Sep 11, 2014 1:23 am
Video and photos available
When my 99NEON and 05 ACR were getting the front c-arm bushings in stalled (Prothane) - I took complete photos and YOUtube video. YOu can do the whole thing if you look at my DIY photos and video.ducktapetg wrote:Thanks. I already replaced the control arms with Moog replacements but, if I have to do it again, I think I will go with polyurethane bushings.
I couldn't though reproduce the RUST and corrosion thing of the great lakes region.
But we did find at least SOME rust
-
- n00b
- Posts: 21
- Joined: Thu Sep 11, 2014 1:23 am
fixit - very good photos
[quote="fixit"]50k on mine
car tracked straight on the highway, add 10% throttle and it would pull into the next lane
I was unfairly spanking a ghetto Honda with my amazing 2nd gear torque, then hit a wet patch of pavement. My ACR did the 1950's hip-hop dance. Stopped accelerating (but the rev's went up) and some torque steer, wheel BOUNCE. Humiliated
That was it for that. We did the MOPAR lowering springs and prothane front c-arm upgrade. Dropped me down a bit too!!
(that suspension event bruised my ego)
car tracked straight on the highway, add 10% throttle and it would pull into the next lane
I was unfairly spanking a ghetto Honda with my amazing 2nd gear torque, then hit a wet patch of pavement. My ACR did the 1950's hip-hop dance. Stopped accelerating (but the rev's went up) and some torque steer, wheel BOUNCE. Humiliated
That was it for that. We did the MOPAR lowering springs and prothane front c-arm upgrade. Dropped me down a bit too!!
(that suspension event bruised my ego)