Stiffer Rear Mounts/Clunking in Rear???? Solution!
- DouglasSXT
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First off, Sorry to bring back an old thread.
I Tried this a few days ago (on 66k mi Strut mounts), But wasn't able to let it cure for more than a half hour before i had to throw them back on my car and take off...I'm still clunking .
I ordered new Strut mounts (Moog) from Advance yesterday, and bought some more window-weld ($18!). This time I'll let them cure for 24+ hours and see how they hold up then
I Tried this a few days ago (on 66k mi Strut mounts), But wasn't able to let it cure for more than a half hour before i had to throw them back on my car and take off...I'm still clunking .
I ordered new Strut mounts (Moog) from Advance yesterday, and bought some more window-weld ($18!). This time I'll let them cure for 24+ hours and see how they hold up then
Filled the mounts last Saturday and gave them plenty of time to cure( 3 days). I didn't have time to install all 4 mounts so I just did the rear and let me say this by far is the best quick fix solution for the clunking. Ive been driving around with that noise for so long it actually seems weird that i don't hear it any more..
Thanx SlvrACR for this quick How To..
Thanx SlvrACR for this quick How To..
'06 Nissan Murano S AWD
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jT wrote:i just used a $5 tube of PL Roof & Flashing Sealant (polyurethane) from Lowe's to achieve the same result... just another way to go for anyone who cares.
How long did u let yours dry for?
help this isn't a ford and I'm lost..
2008 Ford Focus SES 5-sp
2004 Neon SE ATX (g/f's)
(rip) 1994 Ford Escort LX 5-sp (died of rust)
(rip) 1991 Ford Escort LX 5-sp (died of rust)
2008 Ford Focus SES 5-sp
2004 Neon SE ATX (g/f's)
(rip) 1994 Ford Escort LX 5-sp (died of rust)
(rip) 1991 Ford Escort LX 5-sp (died of rust)
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For anyone that cares I'm halfway done with this mod/fix.
I went out and got new mounts, and a thing of Loctite PL Roof & Flashing Sealant ( http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/pl_sea ... ealant.htm )
To get the strut apart I used this how to: viewtopic.php?t=10341
So far everything is sitting waiting for the goop to dry. I can't wait to see if this finally solves the clunking noise.
update: ahh peace and quite for the back end.
I went out and got new mounts, and a thing of Loctite PL Roof & Flashing Sealant ( http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/pl_sea ... ealant.htm )
To get the strut apart I used this how to: viewtopic.php?t=10341
So far everything is sitting waiting for the goop to dry. I can't wait to see if this finally solves the clunking noise.
update: ahh peace and quite for the back end.
help this isn't a ford and I'm lost..
2008 Ford Focus SES 5-sp
2004 Neon SE ATX (g/f's)
(rip) 1994 Ford Escort LX 5-sp (died of rust)
(rip) 1991 Ford Escort LX 5-sp (died of rust)
2008 Ford Focus SES 5-sp
2004 Neon SE ATX (g/f's)
(rip) 1994 Ford Escort LX 5-sp (died of rust)
(rip) 1991 Ford Escort LX 5-sp (died of rust)
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Wait.. so when you use aftermarket struts and springs.. the neons have a clunking sound? Is this due to loose struts or oversized strut mounts? I've never heard of clunking on the struts other than when the nut(s) become loose thus you have loose struts, which clunk on turns/curves/braking/speeding/hitting bumps on the road etc.. happens. <_<;
Does anyone know if this is the aftermarket strut being the problem with the stock mount or is it the springs (assuming lowering springs)?
I'm about to get into a set of struts and springs but it appears I may need additional hardware (after market strut mounts)?
Does anyone know if this is the aftermarket strut being the problem with the stock mount or is it the springs (assuming lowering springs)?
I'm about to get into a set of struts and springs but it appears I may need additional hardware (after market strut mounts)?
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OEM or aftermarket rear mounts, the part that bolts to the body. The inside rubber becomes loose.
trojmn wrote:my fix because didn't like the thought of the top of the strut moving about even on a "good" mount... and i don't see any need for spherical bearing mounts in the rear
also a great visual to how ridiculous strut bars are unless you fix the strut mount....
Duster360 fabbed a permanent fix and firmed up the rear strut mounts quite a bit with 3" diameter neoprene. Drilled the spot welds on the old mounts, and took out the destroyed guts. cut the 3" neoprene cylinder into biscuits and sandwiched around a plate for the strut to attaches to. We then used a .25 spacer to bring the sandwich to 3.25" then welded the mount back together.
http://www.srtforums.com/forums/f163/an ... ost9498977
Bill
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCMOlha Koba, a psychologist in Kyiv, said that “anger and hate in this situation is a normal reaction and important to validate.” But it is important to channel it into something useful, she said, such as making incendiary bombs out of empty bottles.
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester
Also check out post # 13 that I made, in this thread:illriginalized wrote:Wait.. so when you use aftermarket struts and springs.. the neons have a clunking sound? Is this due to loose struts or oversized strut mounts? I've never heard of clunking on the struts other than when the nut(s) become loose thus you have loose struts, which clunk on turns/curves/braking/speeding/hitting bumps on the road etc.. happens. <_<;
Does anyone know if this is the aftermarket strut being the problem with the stock mount or is it the springs (assuming lowering springs)?
I'm about to get into a set of struts and springs but it appears I may need additional hardware (after market strut mounts)?
viewtopic.php?p=921227#
I think this may be the cause of a lot of 'unexplained' rear strut noises.
- Nick
-1998 2-dr SOHC MTX= 57mm TB; Maddog STS
-2000 Ply.LX w/MTX = Maddog STS; CAI; 2.5 exh.; 60mm T/B
-2001 ATX w/Syked PCM + Magnum header
-2001 ACR w/SRT T/B bored out to 55mm
Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon till it Dies" Club #000009
-2000 Ply.LX w/MTX = Maddog STS; CAI; 2.5 exh.; 60mm T/B
-2001 ATX w/Syked PCM + Magnum header
-2001 ACR w/SRT T/B bored out to 55mm
Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon till it Dies" Club #000009
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Ohhh hahaha.. yeah man! When you install it drive the car for about another 500 miles max, then re-tighten the struts! It's like installing sway bars, when you install them, they're nice and tight.. but after driving and putting some strain on them, they'll more than likely loosen up a bit, sometimes not even noticeably but you should still re-tighten them, even if it's a thread. After that, they should be completely tightened down.NickKo wrote:Also check out post # 13 that I made, in this thread:illriginalized wrote:Wait.. so when you use aftermarket struts and springs.. the neons have a clunking sound? Is this due to loose struts or oversized strut mounts? I've never heard of clunking on the struts other than when the nut(s) become loose thus you have loose struts, which clunk on turns/curves/braking/speeding/hitting bumps on the road etc.. happens. <_<;
Does anyone know if this is the aftermarket strut being the problem with the stock mount or is it the springs (assuming lowering springs)?
I'm about to get into a set of struts and springs but it appears I may need additional hardware (after market strut mounts)?
viewtopic.php?p=921227#
I think this may be the cause of a lot of 'unexplained' rear strut noises.
- Nick
There's a few other parts in vehicles that will get loosened up after even if they were tightened well, and they'll only loosen up after a good amount of miles (facing all kinds of road surfaces if that makes any sense).
Kind of like re-installing a head, a lot of times you need new bolts after doing some head work, but you also have to stretch them by tightening with so much torque, then loosening them, then tightening again with even more torque, rinse and repeat til you finally torque it at the right spec.
Pretty crazy stuff, but ya.. always check suspension components after installing them about 500 miles +/- later.