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jklnhyd
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Location: Pasadena, Ca

New Southern California member

Post by jklnhyd » Thu Sep 11, 2014 9:29 am

2004 Dodge Neon 2.0 L 122 CID L4 SOHC AT

I just bought a Neon SE 87,000 miles. The car looks nice on the outside and inside but i dont think the maintence schedule has been followed. I have the "standard" rough idle that i have been reading about online. My initial plans to get some kind of baseline maintenance is the following:

Replace motor mounts (3) with Anchor mounts
Replace AT mount (1) with Anchor mount
Replace fuel injectors ( manufacturer preferred?)
Replace spark plugs (manufacturer preferred?)
Replace spark plug wires
Replace serpentine belt
Flush and fill cooling system
Replace thermostat
Remove and clean TB
Replace air filter and remove and clean air box
Replace a/c ambient air temp sensor
Replace IAC
Replace Map sensor
Camshaft sensor
O2 sensor
Oil change/filter
Tranny flush/filter

Repack/replace wheel bearing/seals
Brake job

The list seems a bit overkill maybe, and like "throwing money at a problem". I want to do it for 3 reasons. 1) i dont know if any of this has ever been done. 2) i will learn about my car. 3) the parts are cheap so why not?

The car has been in a front passenger side collision, has been "fixed". It pulls a little to that side so i am going to check my air pressure, and all of the connecting stuff for wear then get it aligned.

It idles rough, and if all of the things above, and a good engine cleaning doesnt fix it, i will bear here to ask questions.

Thanks...

Midnight_Rider
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Location: Kokomo, IN

Post by Midnight_Rider » Thu Sep 11, 2014 10:37 am

Welcome to 2GN! Doesn't sound like "throwing money at a problem"- you will be rewarded with reliable transportation for your investment. :thumbup:
Official "I'm Going To Drive My Neon 'til It Dies" Club #10

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thomas_w
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Location: Beavercreek, OH

Post by thomas_w » Thu Sep 11, 2014 4:25 pm

Welcome! Seems like a decent list to tackle. I would stick with the sensors unless they are causing issues. Same thing with the O2 sensors. I replaced my downstream O2 sensor after 190k miles, which is when I got a code. The upstream one is still original. The wheel bearings you will have to replace; I don't think you can repack them.

occasional demons
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Location: Ashland Ohio

Post by occasional demons » Thu Sep 11, 2014 11:31 pm

Spark plugs, most will tell you to stick with the stock Champions. And to stay away from anything Platinum.

I have used Platinums since 2004 in mine, and have had zero issues, other than them outlasting a standard plug.

I prefer Taylor Spiro Pro spark plug wires, they will last longer than the car. And cost less than the Mopar wires. Provided you can get them local.

As far as sensors, the o2's would be the only thing I would consider. I had ~180,000 on mine, and changed it just because. I got more throttle response from that, than I ever got from the UDP I had on there for a bit.

Granted I have a 60mm TB, so it is going to use the o2 sensor more to correct for the added air than the TPS...

You may want to get a Mopar Cam Position Sensor as a back up, and run the original until it fails. They do seem to have a higher failure rate on 2003 and newer. (They work 3 times as hard compared to the 2002 - older)

IAC is $100+
MAP sensors seem to last forever.
Fuel injectors are probably good for another 80,000 miles or more. If nothing else get them cleaned at a reputable shop. I still have the originals in mine.

None of the wheel bearings are serviceable. When they fail, they fail. I have over 200,000 on 75% of mine, and still going strong.

Replace all the radiator heater core rubber hoses, including the two under the intake manifold. Just be very careful removing the one from the water pump inlet tube. The tube breaks pretty easily, and most dealers don't stock it anymore. You will be down for a day or two.

Also a Perma Cool oil thermostat, and an external trans cooler are a good idea. The cooler in the radiator is known for rupturing, mixing coolant and ATF. Trans failure is almost a promise when that happens.
$100 for a t'stat and cooler is cheap, compared to a toasted ATX.
Bill
Olha Koba, a psychologist in Kyiv, said that “anger and hate in this situation is a normal reaction and important to validate.” But it is important to channel it into something useful, she said, such as making incendiary bombs out of empty bottles.
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester

Midnight_Rider
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Post by Midnight_Rider » Thu Sep 11, 2014 11:38 pm

occasional demons wrote:Just be very careful removing the one from the water pump inlet tube. The tube breaks pretty easily, and most dealers don't stock it anymore. You will be down for a day or two.
Off-topic but this is why I'm always buying so many parts before I have my car serviced- just in case. :thumbup:
Official "I'm Going To Drive My Neon 'til It Dies" Club #10

jklnhyd
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Posts: 9
Joined: Thu Sep 11, 2014 8:56 am
Location: Pasadena, Ca

Post by jklnhyd » Fri Sep 12, 2014 12:11 am

Thank you for the replies. Your list of things is cheaper than mine, so will do yours, lol.

Im online looking for Mopar engine mounts, as looking at mine, the upper and lower are gone.

But to be totally clear, there are 3 (upper, lower, center)? Also the AT mount, and is there another under the airbox? So a total of 4 or five?

I figure to replace em all

occasional demons
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Location: Ashland Ohio

Post by occasional demons » Fri Sep 12, 2014 9:41 am

Just 4.

Two load bearing, and the torque struts (what you are calling upper and lower)
Bill
Olha Koba, a psychologist in Kyiv, said that “anger and hate in this situation is a normal reaction and important to validate.” But it is important to channel it into something useful, she said, such as making incendiary bombs out of empty bottles.
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester

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