bad outside door lock/door panel removal question?

Questions about interior lighting, shift knobs, just anything mainly to do with modifications on the inside of the car. Ask those questions here.
Post Reply
User avatar
Pablodragon
2GN Member
Posts: 567
Joined: Sun Jun 24, 2007 9:22 pm
Location: Westland, MI

bad outside door lock/door panel removal question?

Post by Pablodragon » Sun Apr 20, 2014 6:37 pm

outside key lock not working. No, I do not have electric locks.

couple moths ago I went out to unlock door, turned key and heard a click. wouldn't unlock door.

The inside lever works to lock and unlock, but the outside key won't. Funny thing is, most of the time it will move something and LOCK the door, but won't unlock.

figured I would try to remove the inside door panel to at least look at it. Having trouble with that. Did go here...

viewtopic.php?t=43114

now, what year Neon is this cuz I have an extra screw and my panel doesn't look like this (I have an 04).. so here we go...

the how-to is kinda old, no pic anymore of the tool mentioned, can I get it at Harbor Freight?
Tried what they said with a rag and it did nothing to get the window crank off (shined something up real good tho!)

Did manage to pop some of the panel off enough to get my hand up by the outside door handle, and don't feel anything loose

Main question, even if I get the door panel off, is there anything I can do with the outside lock, with the problem described above?
2004 SE... doin it one piece at a timeImage

stdlystdmufn
2GN Member
Posts: 1019
Joined: Sun Feb 19, 2006 7:29 pm
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Contact:

Post by stdlystdmufn » Sun Apr 20, 2014 11:16 pm

you can get a window knob puller set here

i don't know off the top of my head but there is probably a screw in the door cup (the thing you put your hand in to pull the door closed)

the rag trick only works after you get the metal clip out of the window crank handle. you can use a small flathead, a 90* dental pick, or the door kit i posted up above.

when the last screw and the window crank are off. put a thick flathead between the panel and the door skin. (start at the bottom, if you scrape some paint getting the screwdriver between the panel and the door you don't want it to be in sight) just work the screwdriver around the perimeter of the door panel until it stops then carefully pry the door panel away from the door. keep doing that until you can easily get a solid grip on the bare panel with your hand then give it a couple quick yanks.

after you pull the harness off the switches and undo the metal rods from the door panel handle and lock. pull off the black water seal. (the plastic now covering the door) look inside the door and see if there is something wrong with your door lock. from here you can service the lock actuator, lock cylinder, or door handle or what ever.

also roll the window down before you remove the window crank. if you forget to roll it down first just put the crank back on the regulator after the panel is off.
Image
in the middle of a DOHC and MTX swap and going with an ASP kit pwered by the S259 batmowheel

Themaggots
2GN Member
Posts: 393
Joined: Fri Jan 11, 2008 3:12 pm
Location: Quebec, Canada

Post by Themaggots » Mon Apr 21, 2014 1:07 am

I do suppose that since you're talking about keys, you're talking about the front driver door.

And the how-to is with pictures from a rear driver door.
Jimmy

User avatar
Pablodragon
2GN Member
Posts: 567
Joined: Sun Jun 24, 2007 9:22 pm
Location: Westland, MI

Post by Pablodragon » Mon Apr 21, 2014 6:05 pm

wow.. I feel dumb about that one question... yea, that link even says in the title it's for the REAR door!

still confused about a couple things... that trick with the rag in that link specifically says it is to get the clip off, not the crank

..and what scares me is pulling the whole panel off, will disconnect the actuating rods... how would I get them back on, when re-installing, when they are behind the panel? (I have nothing electric in the door, so wouldn't worry about any wiring harness)


...and if the window is rolled down, how would I get behind it to get to the lock mechanism...wouldn't the window rolled down now be blocking me?
2004 SE... doin it one piece at a timeImage

stdlystdmufn
2GN Member
Posts: 1019
Joined: Sun Feb 19, 2006 7:29 pm
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Contact:

Post by stdlystdmufn » Mon Apr 21, 2014 8:45 pm

i find it easier to stick my head through the window hole to put the door panel back on.

the clips that hold the metal rods are reusable. turn the plastic tip 90* and pull rod out of the clip. to install, put the clip in the plastic clip hole and turn the tip 90* towards the rod. (i know none of this makes sense now but trust me when you see it you will totally get it) the door panel is not a "press fit" to the door. so when you get all the perimeter clips off the door panel will pull away from the door enough to fit two hands between the door panel and the door skin. then look behind the door panel to see what you are doing (this is where having the window down is helpful) when you get the clips, rods, panel, and water shield off and out of your way; slip the window crank back onto the regulator piece (without the metal retainer clip installed) roll the window up. when you want to put the door panel back on just roll the window back down and go to town.

I have never gotten the rag to work i just don't have the finesse i guess. i am a mechanic by trade and i use a small flat head screwdriver or a 90* pick. if you don't have that stuff then buy the $6 kit from HF that i posted a link to and one of those "v-shaped" tools will slip under the window crank and disengage the metal retaining clip. --->here click on me to see the link to the harbor freight door panel removal kit<--- (incase you didn't see or notice the link i posted in my first response)

that link still applies to your door. not much different front to back when you have crank windows all around. just gotta find the screws that secure the panel. should be behind the interior door handle covered up by a little square flap and in the door pull (where you put your had to close the door while sitting in the drivers seat)
Image
in the middle of a DOHC and MTX swap and going with an ASP kit pwered by the S259 batmowheel

Post Reply

Return to “Interior”