Casper

Do you have a project going or will you be starting a project here very soon and just want to keep a log of everything you and when? Share with everyone every step of the way what sort of progress you are making on your project.
Midnight_Rider
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Post by Midnight_Rider » Wed Nov 20, 2013 10:44 pm

gtxtreme19 wrote:I'll be damned if I didn't forget to sit in these seats while you were up here!
+1 :banghead:
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Post by occasional demons » Wed Jan 15, 2014 11:52 pm

So, I finally got around to checking the fuel pressure, since it took a pretty good hit in fuel mileage when I installed the new injectors.

I previously installed a 2gn regulator from AZ because I was getting a lean code with the original injectors. The 2gn regulator seemed to cure that. It still didn't quite run 100% with the original injectors that came with the car.

With unknown mileage on the injectors, or possibly the ~240,000 miles showing on the odometer; and previously, a ton of sediment got into them from the filler neck rotting out.

I figured some fresh ones probably were due.

Fuel pump off
Image

Fuel pump on, engine running
Image

Definitely on the high side of spec. This makes the injectors flow about 25.3 lbs/hr.

I am considering trying a new Mopar 1gn regulator, just to see if it still gets a lean code, and if not, if it still runs the same.

It still stumbles a little on initial tip in of the throttle. This seems to be a problem on some 2.4 swaps. This problem was there from day one of the swap.

I have changed along the way: TPS, I swapped MAP sensors, coolant sensor is new Mopar. It was re pinned at the PCM for the injectors and coil.

I checked the TPS before install, and it changes voltage smoothly, and proportionately with the movement. Possibly the PCM just isn't responding to the added cubes. It basically acts like the first bit of throttle opening is not registering, then once it is open a bit, it takes off and goes like hell.

Above say 1500 - 1700 rpm, it is fine. It is 100% normal. Speed Control works flawlessly, even at 35 mph, so I know the PCM is getting a good TPS signal. If it was cutting out, it would cancel the speed control.

At 35 in fifth, it is well within the problem range, but with the Speed control, it has no issues at all.

Maybe California Emissions PCM's don't adjust well. :lol:
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Post by gtxtreme19 » Thu Jan 16, 2014 1:47 am

occasional demons wrote:Maybe California Emissions PCM's don't adjust well. :lol:
Oh my gosh! Noo way!

OK enough of that, time to call Syked!
-Mike
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Post by occasional demons » Sun Jan 19, 2014 5:11 pm

Funny you should mention that.

I actually purchased one that is supposed to be from the group buy.

So I decided it was warm enough to venture out today. I plug it in, and all goes to hell. Engine runs like shit, cuts off, wont stay running, and I get codes out the ass.

WTF.


So I unplug it, plug the original back in, and engine runs like shit, cuts off, wont stay running, and I get less codes. Fuck me.

It's looking like my PCM connector is shit. I'm looking at two more connectors and splicing them in, or taking these apart and squishing the sockets a bit so they contact the pins better. I could see this if the temps were below 20ºF but it is actually halfway decent out there today.

This might solve my throttle response issue if I can get a good PCM connection.

Hopefully warm weather gets here soon, because now I can't even drive it to my parents house to work on it in a heated garage. Just wiggling the connector at the PCM kills the engine.

I'm surprised it hasn't acted up sooner. I just had it out the other day, because the roads had been well washed of salt.
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Post by Midnight_Rider » Sun Jan 19, 2014 5:37 pm

Wow, sorry to read about that. Casper must be ready to make the scene at the MI and OH meets. :thumbup:
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Post by occasional demons » Mon Jan 20, 2014 8:32 am

I remembered the '96 DOHC I bought last year had a full harness/PCM with it. Just have to figure out where dad buried it at. Going to need re pinned anyways, so the minor differences shouldn't matter.

I'll have to combine both harnesses, if I don't cut and splice the connectors though. Injector connectors are different, plus a few other items, so it's a toss up as to what's going to be the easier route.


But on the positive side, I don't have to pay out any $ for a used '97 - '99 harness, that may not be much better.

Makes you wonder how many issues are blamed on other things tho, since I'm sure all the wiring and sensors would check out 100%. There is no way to check the PCM pin to socket resistance.

Unless you get a scrap PCM, and cut it apart to use the connectors to plug in. Even then it may not be the same as the good one.

Just the two different PCM's gave different issues, and it changed each time I plugged it in. One time I would have a battery light, the next it was fine.

Being its not supposed to be above 15ºF this week, I don't for see any progress happening soon.
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Post by gtxtreme19 » Mon Jan 20, 2014 9:51 am

Wow that's crazy, wouldn't it be simpler to swap the new pcm connectors to your current harness? Good luck finding a quality harness without paying an arm and a leg. have fun doing all that wiring
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Post by fargo59 » Mon Jan 20, 2014 11:22 am

or a connector repair kit?

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Post by occasional demons » Mon Jan 20, 2014 12:48 pm

Mopar only has one connector kit available, for the '01 to '02 PCM, C2 I think. Not C1.

I might check for model year 2000 tho. As long as the pin sockets are the same, I can use those if the connector is a bit different. IDK if the locating tabs changed, or if they are the same.

The one that was available is under $40, so it is a decent option for the pin sockets alone.

Splicing the connectors might be the route I do end up taking. I can mount the PCM in a better location that way...
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Post by fargo59 » Mon Jan 20, 2014 12:58 pm

is it the plastic thats broken, or the pin terminals that are sketchy? if it's just wiring then perhaps try finding the type of connector manufacturer who made the pins. a friend of me once pointed out that you can buy many OEM pins and terminals for about 5 cents each, making it amazingly cheap to repair a harness connector IF you can find the supplier.

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Post by Midnight_Rider » Mon Jan 20, 2014 1:16 pm

OD, if you buy a repair kit, I'll buy any spare harness brackets if they are like the one I'm looking for. :thumbup:
viewtopic.php?t=67216
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Post by gtxtreme19 » Mon Jan 20, 2014 1:18 pm

turbodudey wrote:Image
Heres an idea
-Mike
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Skitlz wrote:Gramps, get a GPS.
Gramps Prefers Streetmaps. :D

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Post by occasional demons » Mon Jan 20, 2014 2:19 pm

Gramps, the repair kit is just the connector body, with the wire leads terminated to the pin sockets. You assemble it. I imagine all the wires are the same color, so they don't have to limit them to one specific connector.

All the repair connectors I've seen form Mopar are the same: The wires are generic, as far as color.

I still need the connector(s) that fit the PCM socket, and the pin sockets that will fit that connector. If I knew those military spec sockets would work for replacing the ones in the Mopar connector...

Someone on the 'org had posted a PN for the actual pin sockets: They wanted something like $8 each. So $40 for maybe 40 of them is a bargain compared to getting them 1 at a time.

All 40 holes are not occupied in the connector, but they might provide enough for all of them.

It just seems odd that I didn't have any major issues until I unplugged the original, and plugged in the other one. They are both '99 pcm's. Just mine is a Cali emissions unit, and the "Skyed" (Hopefully) one was a '99 R/T pcm.

Kevin hasn't gotten back to me on confirming it is one that he has done. ATM, that's the only way I have to verify it is what it is claimed to be.
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Post by occasional demons » Tue Jan 21, 2014 9:53 pm

Damn, I love Ebay.

I just bought

NEW MOPAR 40 WAY REPAIR WIRING OEM 5013967AA
NEW MOPAR 40 WAY REPAIR WIRING OEM 5013968AA

For $52 shipped both of them.
:rockon:

The '967AA is still available, I got the last 968AA. :twisted:

Go figure, the connectors are available for a 1998 neon, but not a 1999. :tardbang: Being 1997 through 1999 are pretty much the same wire harness, PCM's etc...

It's about $24 less than what I would have paid at the dealer. :D

So my wires will be Purple and Orange. Maybe I can sneak them in at work, and get the color code/component printed on them. Probably not, since it is designed for a continuous wire feed.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-MOPAR-FORTY ... 257873c406
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Post by Midnight_Rider » Tue Jan 21, 2014 11:27 pm

occasional demons wrote:Gramps, the repair kit is just the connector body, with the wire leads terminated to the pin sockets. You assemble it. I imagine all the wires are the same color, so they don't have to limit them to one specific connector.
Well, you can't blame me for trying. :lol:
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Post by gtxtreme19 » Wed Jan 22, 2014 8:43 am

Nice score, hopefully its warmer when it shows up so you can feel your fingers whilst you're repairing it
-Mike
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Post by occasional demons » Wed Jan 22, 2014 11:07 am

They will (hopefully) be here Thursday or Friday, I'm betting it won't be much warmer. :lol:

I just have to make up my mind if I want to relocate it or not, and figure out a good location...
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Post by occasional demons » Fri Jan 24, 2014 10:25 pm

Well, a little disappointed, not much of a kit.

Image

Image

Whats in the bag:

Seven 20 gauge wires/terminal ends
Three 18 gauge wires/terminal ends

Crimps to splice them, 10 pieces of shrink tubing, and some plugs for the empty holes.

Image

C1 requires:
Ten 18 gauge wires
Fifteen 20 gauge wires

C2 requires:
Six 18 gauge wires
Twenty-three 20 gauge wires

So much for a completely new connector. Thank You Daimler :banghead:

Glad I didn't pay full price for these. The seller even refunded half the shipping, since they put it all in one box. So instead of $52, it was $45. Would have been over $70 with taxes from the dealer.

No word back from Kevin on the PCM either...
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Post by gtxtreme19 » Fri Jan 24, 2014 10:59 pm

Wow that sucks. You might have had a better deal buying new wire in a spool, some spade locks, and reusing some old components
-Mike
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Post by Danteneon » Sat Jan 25, 2014 9:13 am

Crap, I wish I had seen this earlier. But as you now know, all of Chrysler's repair kits are like that. I still have a bunch of the purple and orange wires from other repair kits I've bought.

At least the heat shrink is top notch. It has a sealer coated on the inside that melts when you heat it, and seals the connection nice and water tight like factory. Just be sure you don't let it drip on your skin, it smarts :lol:
If I could just figure out how to meld the Outback and the Neon into one car...

Image

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Post by occasional demons » Sat Jan 25, 2014 9:51 am

I don't mind the wire colors, but at least they could give you enough wires to replace all of them.

The HVAC resistor connector for a co worker's Dakota had double the wires you need. :tardbang:

The sad part is, even these new sockets don't exactly fit real snug on the pins. It's a wonder there aren't more PCM connector related issues, considering the FSM states a near zero resistance spec for ohm'ing out certain circuits.
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Post by ducktapetg » Sat Jan 25, 2014 11:58 am

Could you just go to a junkyard, cut the 2 connectors with 3-6" of wire coming out of them and then splice them together? At least that way the wire colors will match.
Jason

2001 r/t
1998 r/t Project Log --> viewtopic.php?t=66496

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Post by occasional demons » Sat Jan 25, 2014 7:36 pm

I may not even cut my harness. I have the 10 terminals from the kit I opened to play with. The O.D. of the terminal socket is .120"

I may make a die from two blocks of steel, put one side of each in our surface grinder at work. Then clamp them together, and drill a #31 drill hole at the separation line.

Then grind the surface so the hole is .00025" too small. I can then put the socket into the die, and squeeze it down by a quarter thousandth, and see what that does for the fit on the pins. If I can get a nice drag on the pin, I'll be happy. I can then do all the sockets on the harness, and restore the contact.

Obviously they can't be too snug, or you may never get the connector back out.

Worth a try, and the weather isn't going to break anytime soon, so I got some time to play.

I will probably use the new connector housings, they do seem to fit tighter than what's there. (For all I know, that may be all I will need to do)

If all fails, like I said, I do have the '96 harness I can cut the connectors from. The wires won't all match, and I may need to add some, as '96 is different than '97 - '99.
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Post by occasional demons » Wed Jan 29, 2014 7:53 pm

I left it free to float, so it can self center.

Image

Image


Image

Just takes a smack with a small hammer. I ended up just using a file to take material off. So far, it does squeeze them, but they are still loose on the pins. So I'll file a little more, and re test.

I guess I really can't say I hope this "gets the ghost out of the machine". :hiding:
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Post by occasional demons » Sat Feb 01, 2014 6:11 pm

Didn't have much time to get things done today, but did make some progress.

Image

Maybe tomorrow, if the weather permits.

Off to watch some ass beatings now....
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Post by occasional demons » Sun Feb 02, 2014 4:21 pm

Well I got it all back together, all is well, no more codes, etc.

Had to open a dispute on Pay Pal, as the "Syked" pcm only revs to 6800 rpm, and then it drops off to 6000 rpm and will not go above it. So either the seller got scammed, or he is trying to scam me. Kevin has not replied to any of the emails I sent him. All I wanted was verification this was a PCM he had done.

Pretty sad.

Almost makes you want to check out this guy...

http://forums.neons.org/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=409251

If he can prove he is legit, it beats paying for one from Modern.


If the VIN/PCM info wasn't on there, I would swear it was an SOHC PCM...

The original PCM cleanly hits the 7200 rev limit with ease. Pretty much rules out anything else.
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Post by theColonel » Sun Feb 02, 2014 5:01 pm

occasional demons wrote:Well I got it all back together, all is well, no more codes, etc.

Had to open a dispute on Pay Pal, as the "Syked" pcm only revs to 6800 rpm, and then it drops off to 6000 rpm and will not go above it. So either the seller got scammed, or he is trying to scam me. Kevin has not replied to any of the emails I sent him. All I wanted was verification this was a PCM he had done.
:thumbup: I'm glad you got rid of all the codes ... this is one of the most interesting threads, ever ... Please update whenever you hear from Kevin
https://www.facebook.com/srtlh/media_se ... 738&type=3

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Post by fargo59 » Sun Feb 02, 2014 5:50 pm

glad to hear that the connectors are back to normal and it fixes the fault. that sort of thing can be insanely annoying to deal with.
they used to teach us in school to use a tee pin (from a craft store) to use as a go/no-go gauge for pin drag tests.

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Post by gtxtreme19 » Sun Feb 02, 2014 5:52 pm

Well that sucks pretty bad, hopefully Kevin gets back to you with some info. I'd hate to think it was another vendor going to the gutters like ammfab.
-Mike
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Post by Midnight_Rider » Sun Feb 02, 2014 9:37 pm

Here I thought that I was the only one having PayPal drama. :shock: Hope that this gets sorted out soon.
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