How-To: Magnum intake install version 2

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Kernel Panic
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How-To: Magnum intake install version 2

Post by Kernel Panic » Thu Jul 14, 2005 12:43 pm

Ok so you've gotten a Magnum intake. You want to have it operate just like an ACR or R/T. You looked at all the how-to's but none seem to work. Well this configuration will have your intake working just like a Magnum motor. Just follow the directions below....

Parts needed

A Magnum intake with a functioning actuator
a RPM window switch (Harlan or MSD(you may need a tach adapter))*
a Zex TPS/WOT switch*
2 relays (SPDT - Single pole, Double throw)
wire (lots of it)

*note these devices use a ground interrupt which are used to control relays, using these devices to control high current devices will fry them on first use.

Background

The Magnum intake on the Neon ACR and R/T's has two runners one being the short or primary runner, and a long or secondary runner. The secondaries are operated by a set of 4 butterflys actuated by the MTV actuator which is controlled by the PCM. The secondaries are opened when certain parameters are met. First you must be at WOT, and then you must be between idle and 3200RPMS, or 5000+(to clarify you will be on the primary runners no matter what between 3200 and 5000RPMS). Other than that you are running only on the primary runners.

Setup

Install your Magnum intake.

Now you need to locate a constant and switched +12VDC source (the battery + terminal, and the hot side off the fuel pump relay will work).

First we are going to hook up the WOT switch. Wire it according to the instructions (use the switched +12 source to supply power) connecting one of the two control wires(we are only going to use one, you can use the second one to control another relay to fire off nitrous solenoids if you want) to one of the terminals for the relay #1 coil.

Wire up the other coil terminal to your constant 12V source.

Now following the WOT switch instructions program the WOT switch. After you program the WOT switch with the ignition ON, you should be able to depress the throttle to WOT and hear the relay engaging, then disengaging after you let up. If not troubleshoot your wiring.

Now we are going to wire up the RPM switch(depending on which you are using the tach adapter as well, the Harlan does NOT need the TA, just tap one of the hot wires going to the coil pack( either outside wire will do(the center is your common)) and set it to 2 cyl when you are programming it) to its power source (switched +12V) and the trigger wire (ground) to the one of the coil terminals on relay #2, and the other term should be connected to the NO (Normally Open) contact on relay #1. Now connect the common terminal on relay #1 to your switched +12 source. Almost done!

Now connect the + terminal of the MTV actuator to the +12V constant, then connect the (- ) terminalto the common terminal of relay #2, and the NO (normally open) to ground.

Tidy up your wiring, program the RPM switch, and try it out!


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Post by eVilcreations » Thu Jul 14, 2005 1:02 pm

Very nice write up Greg.......I would surely use this if I was going to use a mag intake.....


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Post by Kernel Panic » Thu Jul 14, 2005 3:31 pm

Thanks!

Well getting a couple of emails a week asking how to do it kinda motivated me to do this. And it is ALOT better than the writeup's I've seen addressing the wiring of the actuator. Now I get...

Ricer: yo! you gotta VTEC?
Me: no a Magnum
Ricer: a Hemi??
Me: yeah, whatever......

:D
The weasels are closing in, I can smell the ugly brutes..
When the going gets wierd, the wierd turn pro.. - Dr. Hunter S. Thompson (1937-2005)

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Post by evlneon » Thu Jul 14, 2005 6:23 pm

just so it's out there... what gauge wire would you recommend Greg?
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Post by Kernel Panic » Sat Jul 16, 2005 10:13 pm

I pretty much kept to matching what was already there. It helps having a wire spool rack. If I was out of a particular gauge I just went up to the next larger.
The weasels are closing in, I can smell the ugly brutes..
When the going gets wierd, the wierd turn pro.. - Dr. Hunter S. Thompson (1937-2005)

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Post by quicksilvr » Tue Jul 19, 2005 2:10 am

Wow, this just saved me pm'ing you a couple times to ask specific questions. Thanks, and very well done. I still don't have a switch, but I don't even have the manifold yet, so it's all good. The manifold should arrive this week. Thanks again for posting this. Lifesaver.
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Post by BlackRoseRacing » Tue Jul 19, 2005 7:03 am

Technically...we do have HEMI's.......
The SOHC magnum and non are all based on the hemisherical combustion chamber.
As for the magnum intake - its a VVI manifold(that will confuse ricers..lol)

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Post by 79cutlas » Thu Aug 18, 2005 1:40 pm

Good write-up. I used an MSD switch with my own "pill" i made to open the secondaries at 4800 RPM. Which is really fun cause all my Honda friends are like "how did you get a Vtec in a Neon?!" Which cracks me up all the time...
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Post by BlackRoseRacing » Thu Aug 18, 2005 6:37 pm

Diablooooo.....stiiiickyyy...... :lol:

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Post by nodestiny » Wed Aug 31, 2005 1:57 pm

BlackRoseRacing wrote:Technically...we do have HEMI's.......
The SOHC magnum and non are all based on the hemisherical combustion chamber.
As for the magnum intake - its a VVI manifold(that will confuse ricers..lol)
VVI... Whats that stand for? Variable Vaginal Intake? :D Doesnt Toyota use something like VVI-I (with inteligence, i think?) Been a while since ive read this stuff up!
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Post by LCPLPunk » Thu Sep 22, 2005 9:15 am

Ok..so iv'e got

A Magnum intake with a functioning actuator
a RPM window switch (Harlan or MSD(you may need a tach adapter))*
a Zex TPS/WOT switch*


Now..i need 2 relays, a single pole and double throw, or is it a singlepole/doublethrow?

And, where can i get these relays? Would the guys at radioshack know what these are? How much do these run? Thanks!
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Post by nodestiny » Thu Sep 22, 2005 9:23 am

You should be able to use only one relay... i have seen other wiring guides that allow it. Either way works. Rat-shack has relays for a few bux im sure. I can order them for less the $2 each, so im sure they wouldnt need much into it.
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Post by LCPLPunk » Thu Sep 22, 2005 9:40 am

alrighty, great, thanks. I'll have to run-down to radioshack and grab one/two.
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Post by Kernel Panic » Thu Sep 22, 2005 11:59 am

Technically you can get away with using 1 relay, by removing Relay #1 and hot wiring the WOT to the RPM switches. The reason I did it that way is beacause all electronics generate noise, in this case the Harlan switches pickup on that noise from the output of the WOT switch and they go nuts. Could have just used a 0.1uF cap to clean it up but decided using a relay in effect isolates both circuts. To prove my point get an old AM portable radio, tune it to an empty spot(doing this while the car is off) on the dial, pop the hood, start the car, and hold the radio almost anyplace in the engine compartment. You'll be hearing lots of electronic noise. The PCM, the injectors, the alternator, and coil pack are high noise areas. Not having them properly shielded/isolated will wreak havoc on electronics.
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Post by LCPLPunk » Fri Sep 23, 2005 10:36 am

okay..i went to radio shack and all that had were miniature relays with real tiny pins. They had some switches that were SPDT, but i'm not sure if those will work.

I'm assuming they will, but i just wanna make sure. And, does anyone know the gauge wire sizes i'll need? thanks!
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Post by dawm » Sat Sep 24, 2005 9:38 am

LCPLPunk wrote:okay..i went to radio shack and all that had were miniature relays with real tiny pins. They had some switches that were SPDT, but i'm not sure if those will work.

I'm assuming they will, but i just wanna make sure. And, does anyone know the gauge wire sizes i'll need? thanks!
goto autozone, they have relays in the foglight section
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Post by LCPLPunk » Sat Sep 24, 2005 9:39 am

Alrighty, great. Any word on gauge size?
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Post by nodestiny » Sat Sep 24, 2005 3:37 pm

wire gauge? Im sure 16 awg would be fine, i would say 14-12 if you want to be picky (which i would do 14 myself). Its only say 15 amps right? 16 awg should be good to 20 amps (at short distances... dont do 25' of it!)
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Post by LCPLPunk » Sun Sep 25, 2005 3:00 pm

graaaaate! thanks! :)
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Post by Novajoe » Mon Sep 26, 2005 5:43 pm

what about the NOS rpm switch? looks like it comes with a wot switch.
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PCM problems

Post by sxtreborn » Wed Sep 28, 2005 11:58 pm

i wish i under stood all of your terms like wot,and where to get a rpm switch,but i do need to know because i just had a magnum installed into my sxt neon and need help to hook up my secondary

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Post by dblsg » Thu Sep 29, 2005 12:11 am

wot= wide open throttle
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Re: PCM problems

Post by nodestiny » Thu Sep 29, 2005 9:30 am

sxtreborn wrote:i wish i under stood all of your terms like wot,and where to get a rpm switch,but i do need to know because i just had a magnum installed into my sxt neon and need help to hook up my secondary
Goto summit racing and look up "MSD RPM window"... youll find it! I just dished out about $100 for my digital one... OUCH.
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Post by tamadrumr88 » Thu Oct 13, 2005 8:36 pm

im thinking of buying the af/x-r ecu... since i already have the magnum motor, is there anything different thatd id be wiring/doing?

thanks

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Post by LCPLPunk » Thu Oct 13, 2005 11:23 pm

from what i've heard the R/T PCM does control the secondaries...
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Post by Frizbe » Fri Oct 14, 2005 1:02 am

LCPLPunk wrote:from what i've heard the R/T PCM does control the secondaries...
It does, but the SXT wiring harness doesn't. :wink:
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Post by tamadrumr88 » Fri Oct 14, 2005 3:23 pm

LCPLPunk wrote:from what i've heard the R/T PCM does control the secondaries...
ofcourse the stock one does. its the atermarket ecu that doesnt, there is no magnum ecu program, thats why we end up running safc's to control that manifold (which ive decided in favor of over a window switch just incase i get the itch for a crane #14 down the line :))

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Post by LCPLPunk » Sun Oct 16, 2005 11:40 am

i think a VAFC controls the secondaries, not a SAFC..
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Post by DJ CptnCrnch » Fri Feb 17, 2006 1:51 pm

have any pics of the a
Zex TPS/WOT switch
2 relays (SPDT - Single pole, Double throw) or somewhere i can buy them...im about to purchase a manifold, and want to make sure i get the right stuff
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Post by dawm » Fri Feb 17, 2006 1:55 pm

im going the vafc route, when it arrives and i get it wired up ill make up some docs for it. it looks to be the SAFC install with 2 extra wires and a relay (so the vafc doesnt blow up)
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