How To: Replace the rubber heater tube connectors SOHC

Post Reply
occasional demons
Junior Admin
Posts: 20306
Joined: Thu May 03, 2007 12:14 pm
Location: Ashland Ohio

How To: Replace the rubber heater tube connectors SOHC

Post by occasional demons » Sat Nov 27, 2010 1:01 am

The ones under the IM.

These are no longer available from the dealer. :(

It is easiest to remove the IM to do this. The heater tubes should be free to move, by removing the two bolts: One in the head, and one in the block. Cut the old tube if it will not come free of the tubes, or the water pump inlet.

You need an AutoZone PN D8041 Dayco molded heater hose

This is the correct 5/8" hose.

Image

Then just line up the old hoses for the correct length.

Image

And reinstall them on the tubes. And tighten everything down.

Image

Note PN for the water pump outlet is 4777171AB and 4777171

4777171AB, is about $6 or $7 cheaper. But it needs the A/C bracket removed to install, or some material removed from the mounting flanges to clear. The o ring end is different so it will not go in at the same angle as 4777171.

I am including this, as mine decided to snap, as I was attempting to get the 90º bend off. I had cut it and was wiggling it off and it cracked. Then the damn rubber tube came off the rest of the way. :cussing: As easily as it cracked, it was prolly going to fail anyways.

I only had to drive 68 miles round trip to get one. :? Or waited a few days, since it is the weekend.

The only other place would have been another ten miles.

/rant.
Bill
Olha Koba, a psychologist in Kyiv, said that “anger and hate in this situation is a normal reaction and important to validate.” But it is important to channel it into something useful, she said, such as making incendiary bombs out of empty bottles.
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester

NickKo
2009 Gold Contributor
Posts: 2248
Joined: Sun Jun 11, 2006 11:24 am
Location: IL./WI.border

Post by NickKo » Sat Nov 27, 2010 7:53 pm

Thank you for the info & for posting this, Bill.

I have a question: Is there any reason that you went through the trouble of replacing these, besides the broken water pump outlet ?? Were the old ones leaking ?
Or just replacing them as part of 'preventative maintenance' ??


- Nick
-1998 2-dr SOHC MTX= 57mm TB; Maddog STS
-2000 Ply.LX w/MTX = Maddog STS; CAI; 2.5 exh.; 60mm T/B
-2001 ATX w/Syked PCM + Magnum header
-2001 ACR w/SRT T/B bored out to 55mm

Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon till it Dies" Club #000009

occasional demons
Junior Admin
Posts: 20306
Joined: Thu May 03, 2007 12:14 pm
Location: Ashland Ohio

Post by occasional demons » Sat Nov 27, 2010 8:33 pm

I replaced them in back in August, as they started leaking. But I had to ghetto them together, as I didn't have an intelligent enough AZ counter guy at the time. And the straight hose will kink at that short of an angle.

A 90º 1/2" copper ell, and two pieces of hose.
Image

Since I was replacing the HG/upgrading the head, I figured I would try again to get the correct tubing. What most sites show for the neon is an 11/16", or 3/4" hose. It will not clamp down without leaking.

Not really sure why the HG failed, both head and block are flat. When the hoses ruptured, it got hotter than normal, but not even close to the red zone. But at least it leaked coolant to the outside, and not into the oill/cylinders. Didn't start until late September, and never leaked enough to really have to add to the reservoir. But was getting worse.
Bill
Olha Koba, a psychologist in Kyiv, said that “anger and hate in this situation is a normal reaction and important to validate.” But it is important to channel it into something useful, she said, such as making incendiary bombs out of empty bottles.
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester

Post Reply

Return to “HT Engine”