How-To: Adjust clutch pedal height
How-To: Adjust clutch pedal height
ADJUSTING CLUTCH PEDAL HEIGHT.
If you look under the dash where the rod attaches to the pedal the end of it is slotted. You can loosten up the 8mm bolt and move the pedal in to lower it.
here is a pic of the end of the rod.
You have to make sure that after your done that the throw is long enough to disengage the clutch completely.
What you do is loosen the bolt shown in the picture.....then slide down the clutch pedal till it requires effort to push it down. ** CAUTION** do not go down too far or you will not be able to shift into gears. Tighten bolt and test, make adjustment as nessary. If you go down too far and the gears will not engage you need to loosen the bolt again and pull the clutch out slightly. Do this until clutch feels short enough for you and the gears engage.
Courtesy of: HOTRODACR
Contact HOTRODACR with any questions!
If you look under the dash where the rod attaches to the pedal the end of it is slotted. You can loosten up the 8mm bolt and move the pedal in to lower it.
here is a pic of the end of the rod.
You have to make sure that after your done that the throw is long enough to disengage the clutch completely.
What you do is loosen the bolt shown in the picture.....then slide down the clutch pedal till it requires effort to push it down. ** CAUTION** do not go down too far or you will not be able to shift into gears. Tighten bolt and test, make adjustment as nessary. If you go down too far and the gears will not engage you need to loosen the bolt again and pull the clutch out slightly. Do this until clutch feels short enough for you and the gears engage.
Courtesy of: HOTRODACR
Contact HOTRODACR with any questions!
I am awesome.Automatic wrote:Go fuck yourself Danny boy.
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My god! I just made this adjustment last night. My knee no longer hits the wheel when coming off the clutch! Thank you for posting this up! It takes 5 minutes to do this guys, I highly recommend everyone do it. Like he says, don't move it down too much, I set mine to just a HAIR above my brake pedal and it works great.
-Chris
'01 black R/T
:Crane 14, minor headwork, few bolt ons, SMT6:
'01 black R/T
:Crane 14, minor headwork, few bolt ons, SMT6:
Ive thought about making this adjustment, but I have a few concerns. Does this just adjust the pedal's freeplay (i.e. to correct any play that comes with wear and tear over time) or does it infact change the clutches engagement play? What I mean is, does this cause the fork to physically disengage the clutch slightly (which might cause slipping issues if done incorrectly)? If I could move the clutch pedal a hair closer to the brake pedal it would be great, but I dont want to risk adjusting it too much and possibly causing early-wear or slippage. any input is much appreciated. thanks.
-Derek
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Hmmm, good points there OB.
It would be interesting to know how much of the clutch pedal stroke does nothing.
It would be interesting to know how much of the clutch pedal stroke does nothing.
-Frank
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Well, if you move it too close to the floor, you're not going to get the car into gear.
After doing it, I'm noticing 2 things.
1. Mine seems to be creeping back up again for some reason.
2. I need to adjust the "looseness" of the pedal when it's up high. I know I saw a thread on it somewhere on here. Let me search and see if I can find it.
After doing it, I'm noticing 2 things.
1. Mine seems to be creeping back up again for some reason.
2. I need to adjust the "looseness" of the pedal when it's up high. I know I saw a thread on it somewhere on here. Let me search and see if I can find it.
-Chris
'01 black R/T
:Crane 14, minor headwork, few bolt ons, SMT6:
'01 black R/T
:Crane 14, minor headwork, few bolt ons, SMT6:
- jonnymopar
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The small bolt that you use to adjust is the bolt that connects the clutch pedal to the clutch cylinder. Therefore, it does absolutely nothing as far as how your clutch engages. As said before, the only thing it affects is how far the clutch disengages when the pedal is on the floor. Easiest way to check this is have somebody listen to the transmission with the hood open. You'll be able to faintly hear the clutch and the input shaft "whirring" with the clutch out in neutral with the engine idling. If you press the clutch in and that whirring doesn't go away, then it's not disengaging enough. Adjust and retry.
I'm not sure why people are so concerned over this. If you take time and actually look at exactly what you're adusting by doing this, it's very easy to see that it doesn't affect the engagement of the clutch. On a hydraulic clutch Neon, you can pretty much do whatever the hell you want to your clutch pedal and it won't affect the clutch wear or life. I'd be worried about synchro damage if you don't leave enough pedal travel to completely disengage the clutch.
I'm not sure why people are so concerned over this. If you take time and actually look at exactly what you're adusting by doing this, it's very easy to see that it doesn't affect the engagement of the clutch. On a hydraulic clutch Neon, you can pretty much do whatever the hell you want to your clutch pedal and it won't affect the clutch wear or life. I'd be worried about synchro damage if you don't leave enough pedal travel to completely disengage the clutch.
Jon J.
2003 Neon SXT - new home, new owner. Thanks for everything, old friend.
1989 Daytona ES - 2.4L/A555 swapped
Official "I'm Going To Drive My Neon Until Jerry Buys It" Club Member #11
I'm in the process of tweaking my position now. You really don't need to move it much. Just a little tweak down. If you go too far, you won't be able to get it into gear with the car running.jonnymopar wrote:The small bolt that you use to adjust is the bolt that connects the clutch pedal to the clutch cylinder. Therefore, it does absolutely nothing as far as how your clutch engages. As said before, the only thing it affects is how far the clutch disengages when the pedal is on the floor. Easiest way to check this is have somebody listen to the transmission with the hood open. You'll be able to faintly hear the clutch and the input shaft "whirring" with the clutch out in neutral with the engine idling. If you press the clutch in and that whirring doesn't go away, then it's not disengaging enough. Adjust and retry.
I'm not sure why people are so concerned over this. If you take time and actually look at exactly what you're adusting by doing this, it's very easy to see that it doesn't affect the engagement of the clutch. On a hydraulic clutch Neon, you can pretty much do whatever the hell you want to your clutch pedal and it won't affect the clutch wear or life. I'd be worried about synchro damage if you don't leave enough pedal travel to completely disengage the clutch.
-Chris
'01 black R/T
:Crane 14, minor headwork, few bolt ons, SMT6:
'01 black R/T
:Crane 14, minor headwork, few bolt ons, SMT6:
^thats because the clutch isnt fully disengaging when you press it down.
Last edited by OB on Thu Mar 10, 2011 8:49 pm, edited 1 time in total.
-Derek
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it is tough to get up in there! There is a tiny plastic bushing that broke on mine, so I just safety wired it.
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Jerome
'03 SXT...DODGE NEON CONES
Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon till it Dies" Club #067
'03 SXT...DODGE NEON CONES
Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon till it Dies" Club #067
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Only '01 and up. '00 is a cable clutch set up, and I believe it should self adjust.
Bill
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCMOlha Koba, a psychologist in Kyiv, said that “anger and hate in this situation is a normal reaction and important to validate.” But it is important to channel it into something useful, she said, such as making incendiary bombs out of empty bottles.
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester
- Notanexit92
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00's were cable, while 01+ was hydraulic, so that would explain the difference if yours doesn't have one. Sounds like you might need a clutch.
-Derek
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- Notanexit92
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Well the clutch seems to be okay for now, it grabs just fine, if anything I would think the cable is stretched or something. I remember you saying maybe the release bearing is probably takin a shit. I'll do it all when I get the Cross member replaced.
Do you think it'll be alot easyier to drop the trans without the Cross Member in?
Do you think it'll be alot easyier to drop the trans without the Cross Member in?
It does hit it a bit coming out so it being out of the way would help, but not really.
-Derek
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Adjusting the pedal? Easy as it gets!
-Derek
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