How To: Daniel's PT Clutch Swap 03 Neon R/T
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How To: Daniel's PT Clutch Swap 03 Neon R/T
Well I'm finally getting all the pieces together, and my clutch swap is coming right around the corner. I will be doing it on Sunday, Nov. 16th. I will attempt to take many pictures during the swap, and also while doing the rear main seal, because I have searched the net and can't find any clutch swap links on Neons, so I will be doing this for myself, and for the benefit of future clutch swappers who need a lil info.
Here are some pictures of my PT clutch itself.
Backside with the 4 bolt holes.
Quick side shot of the assembly
Upper views (yellowish hues are pictures I took without the flash)
closer up, of the fingers
one of my favorite shots I took of it
My throwout bearing, part 4670026AB
mock up with no purpose...
Flexplate to modular clutch assemble bolts, part #6504383
Rear Main Seal Part #4621939AB
Group shot of a few items so far, including one quart of Mopar ATF+4 (I have the rest...) Rear Main Seal, Transmission Mount Insert, Belts for the Alt. and PS/AC which I'm going to do also, clutch, and TOB.
In some pictures you can see that my clutch is a lil dusty looking. Pics 7 and 9 down you can tell a lil. This is some sort of packaging dust or from sitting on the shelf too long. I used some compressed air and got most of it off, and I'm hoping this wont affect the clutch itself.
I also have 8 Flexplate to crankshaft bolts, part 6503465, that are awaiting pickup from the dealership.
A whole lot more to come, especially once the job is done. Thanks for looking so far.
Here are some pictures of my PT clutch itself.
Backside with the 4 bolt holes.
Quick side shot of the assembly
Upper views (yellowish hues are pictures I took without the flash)
closer up, of the fingers
one of my favorite shots I took of it
My throwout bearing, part 4670026AB
mock up with no purpose...
Flexplate to modular clutch assemble bolts, part #6504383
Rear Main Seal Part #4621939AB
Group shot of a few items so far, including one quart of Mopar ATF+4 (I have the rest...) Rear Main Seal, Transmission Mount Insert, Belts for the Alt. and PS/AC which I'm going to do also, clutch, and TOB.
In some pictures you can see that my clutch is a lil dusty looking. Pics 7 and 9 down you can tell a lil. This is some sort of packaging dust or from sitting on the shelf too long. I used some compressed air and got most of it off, and I'm hoping this wont affect the clutch itself.
I also have 8 Flexplate to crankshaft bolts, part 6503465, that are awaiting pickup from the dealership.
A whole lot more to come, especially once the job is done. Thanks for looking so far.
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I got the insert from Vitors site, www.neongoodies.com , but they also sell them on http://polybushings.com/
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Here are some pics of me starting the clutch swap.
Front passenger side hub/brake assembly. Popping off the big bracket from the hub assembly was a PITA.
Top view of the transmission before taking off
Axles have been removed, you can see through the tranny. Pulled the damn plug before all this, and fluid came gushing out making a mess
Passenger side axle
More pics of the brake/hub assemble after pulling out the axle. The axle slid right out, no problem at all. Axle used a 32mm socket to remove. Some of the rubber parts are pretty damaged looking, but I dont have the parts to replace those without taking it to a shop.
Engine supported by the oil pan and some wood blocks
First view of the flexplate after removing tranny
The tranny itself, nothing wiped down yet inside
The shaft where the TOB sits was dry as a bone, and pretty nasty. When I put my new TOB on it, I cleaned it up well, and lubed the shaft where it slides with some moly based grease
Old throw out bearing. Was Nasty and lots of play it in, after 58000 miles
Stock clutch assembly
Tranny after small wipe down and shaft cleaned some, but not lubed yet
Flexplate removed
Crank and rear main seal
Removed the old rear main seal. It was in there TIGHT, and still in great shape... until I removed it. Damaged it bad removing it, but taking care not to damage the seal surface on the block itself
Me under the car
New rear main seal in place. Talk about a Pain in the A**. It took about 30 mins to do, because I didnt have the proper install tool, and it has to be hit in on all sides evenly. There is no tolercance at all. If one side was in a little more than the opposite, it would not go in. I finally got it... Used the old RMS, block of wood, and kept trying to hit it evenly in. Still took some trial and error..
Flexplate again
ring that goes with flexplate
old clutch, new clutch, flexplate
old and new..
Misc pic of my aftermarket oil pressure sensor
Getting the new clutch bolted up. Pic is near oil pan
Some random box, dont know what it is. Says AT Controler I think
Looking up at the O2 sensor
New clutch in place
Tranny with new TOB in place
Tranny back on, and other booger bushing in place. Didnt use it before because the post was so rusted it made the shifter stuck in place. I sanded it some and applied some lube
I still have to double check all connections, put the drivers side axle back in (fell apart other day and had trouble with the clamp), and go for my first test drive with it. I have felt the pedal, and it is lighter than the stock clutch, but not like some people say having almost no feel at all. I won't truly know until I go out for my drive. It wasn't a hard job doing it for the first time, but pretty time consuming with certain things and snags.
I pray my rear main seal will not leak. I had no problems with my old one, but since I was down there I changed it out.
Front passenger side hub/brake assembly. Popping off the big bracket from the hub assembly was a PITA.
Top view of the transmission before taking off
Axles have been removed, you can see through the tranny. Pulled the damn plug before all this, and fluid came gushing out making a mess
Passenger side axle
More pics of the brake/hub assemble after pulling out the axle. The axle slid right out, no problem at all. Axle used a 32mm socket to remove. Some of the rubber parts are pretty damaged looking, but I dont have the parts to replace those without taking it to a shop.
Engine supported by the oil pan and some wood blocks
First view of the flexplate after removing tranny
The tranny itself, nothing wiped down yet inside
The shaft where the TOB sits was dry as a bone, and pretty nasty. When I put my new TOB on it, I cleaned it up well, and lubed the shaft where it slides with some moly based grease
Old throw out bearing. Was Nasty and lots of play it in, after 58000 miles
Stock clutch assembly
Tranny after small wipe down and shaft cleaned some, but not lubed yet
Flexplate removed
Crank and rear main seal
Removed the old rear main seal. It was in there TIGHT, and still in great shape... until I removed it. Damaged it bad removing it, but taking care not to damage the seal surface on the block itself
Me under the car
New rear main seal in place. Talk about a Pain in the A**. It took about 30 mins to do, because I didnt have the proper install tool, and it has to be hit in on all sides evenly. There is no tolercance at all. If one side was in a little more than the opposite, it would not go in. I finally got it... Used the old RMS, block of wood, and kept trying to hit it evenly in. Still took some trial and error..
Flexplate again
ring that goes with flexplate
old clutch, new clutch, flexplate
old and new..
Misc pic of my aftermarket oil pressure sensor
Getting the new clutch bolted up. Pic is near oil pan
Some random box, dont know what it is. Says AT Controler I think
Looking up at the O2 sensor
New clutch in place
Tranny with new TOB in place
Tranny back on, and other booger bushing in place. Didnt use it before because the post was so rusted it made the shifter stuck in place. I sanded it some and applied some lube
I still have to double check all connections, put the drivers side axle back in (fell apart other day and had trouble with the clamp), and go for my first test drive with it. I have felt the pedal, and it is lighter than the stock clutch, but not like some people say having almost no feel at all. I won't truly know until I go out for my drive. It wasn't a hard job doing it for the first time, but pretty time consuming with certain things and snags.
I pray my rear main seal will not leak. I had no problems with my old one, but since I was down there I changed it out.
Great write up, and great pics ! Thanks for posting this up !!
- Nick
Yes, Exactly....ZeroChad wrote:So the PT clutch is modular like the stock one?
- Nick
-1998 2-dr SOHC MTX= 57mm TB; Maddog STS
-2000 Ply.LX w/MTX = Maddog STS; CAI; 2.5 exh.; 60mm T/B
-2001 ATX w/Syked PCM + Magnum header
-2001 ACR w/SRT T/B bored out to 55mm
Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon till it Dies" Club #000009
-2000 Ply.LX w/MTX = Maddog STS; CAI; 2.5 exh.; 60mm T/B
-2001 ATX w/Syked PCM + Magnum header
-2001 ACR w/SRT T/B bored out to 55mm
Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon till it Dies" Club #000009
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Nice! I like the built in cooling fan on the PT assembly.
Bill
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCMOlha Koba, a psychologist in Kyiv, said that “anger and hate in this situation is a normal reaction and important to validate.” But it is important to channel it into something useful, she said, such as making incendiary bombs out of empty bottles.
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester
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Here are a few more pictures.
Car just chillin in the garage
Finally a picture showing the midpipe where my resonator was cut out and replaced with a straight pipe
random picture of the cylinder
PCM
new tail lights and clear third brake light I also installed after the clutch
I went for my first test drive, and the clutch feels great so far. I am in the process of breaking it in, so I won't have any "hard" driving experiance with it yet. The clutch is very smooth, and I'm still getting used to the lighter pedal feel. (as of now, 11-18 through 11-19, the car is in the shop for an oil leak on the timing belt side )
Car just chillin in the garage
Finally a picture showing the midpipe where my resonator was cut out and replaced with a straight pipe
random picture of the cylinder
PCM
new tail lights and clear third brake light I also installed after the clutch
I went for my first test drive, and the clutch feels great so far. I am in the process of breaking it in, so I won't have any "hard" driving experiance with it yet. The clutch is very smooth, and I'm still getting used to the lighter pedal feel. (as of now, 11-18 through 11-19, the car is in the shop for an oil leak on the timing belt side )
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Just a quick update, I finally have about 500 miles on it, and I got on it hard a few times, and I have to say it grips like crazy compared to my stock clutch. I can finally chirp 2nd gear again easily. The clutch feels good, although I am still getting used to the "snappier" engagement. It's almost as if the engagement point has a smaller point where it grabs. The clutch is usually much smoother in the morning when the car is cold, but every now and then it still chatters until warmed up, just like the stock clutch. The tranny noise is still there ever since I installed the clutch, and I have a feeling it's the same kind of noise BRR and Mad_Mediros(spelling) had, although not as loud. I'm pretty satisfied with the clutch, and unless the noise gets louder, I'll just get used to it.
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Clutch update! I have about 2500 miles on the clutch now. Still working flawlessly. It grips like a champ. I can even manage to get a slight chirp out of third gear sometimes. The rattling noise... still there unfortunately, but it's not any worse than right after the install. I really think it's the clutch itself and not the transmission. Could be the lil yellow springs, bigger springs on the clutch disk itself, or some other part of the clutch. Every now and then, there is some chatter in the mornings, mostly if it's been really humid outside. Couple starts and it's smooth as butter for the whole day. Feel free to use any pics for the FAQ section.
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- BlackRoseRacing
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Ok, I'm confused about something here, I was just reading on the other 'org that the PT non-GT clutch (or whatever...?) is the same as our clutches... but obviously your pictures show differently.
So two questions, first, what *specific* vehicle is this clutch out of, and second, MPx claims it's only good for another 50-75hp, have any of you used this clutch with more? (think turbo kit power output)
I' have just about everything for my MTX swap except the clutch, and I'd like to pick one now... I take it MPx is a good source for this...?
So two questions, first, what *specific* vehicle is this clutch out of, and second, MPx claims it's only good for another 50-75hp, have any of you used this clutch with more? (think turbo kit power output)
I' have just about everything for my MTX swap except the clutch, and I'd like to pick one now... I take it MPx is a good source for this...?
- A - R - R - O - 2000 - NEON SE - // - 2003 - SRT-4 -Drive it like you stole it, and work on it like you married it.
Cardomain: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2651950
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The non mod PT clutch is not the same as the stock. It is the one I swapped to. I don't know the specific years, but it is a PT Cruiser Clutch from the non turbo models. I bought mine from modernperformance.com and is a direct replacement. I also went ahead and bought new bolts for the flywheel and clutch from the dealership just to be safe. I replaced the rear main seal while in there.Arro wrote:Ok, I'm confused about something here, I was just reading on the other 'org that the PT non-GT clutch (or whatever...?) is the same as our clutches... but obviously your pictures show differently.
So two questions, first, what *specific* vehicle is this clutch out of, and second, MPx claims it's only good for another 50-75hp, have any of you used this clutch with more? (think turbo kit power output)
I' have just about everything for my MTX swap except the clutch, and I'd like to pick one now... I take it MPx is a good source for this...?
A direct replacement.... ok yes or no, this is an *upgrade* over the stock clutch, and offers more grab?
I am still also confused about the modular vs. non-modular thing... I had thought that all 2GN and PT clutches were modular. Am I wrong?
I am still also confused about the modular vs. non-modular thing... I had thought that all 2GN and PT clutches were modular. Am I wrong?
- A - R - R - O - 2000 - NEON SE - // - 2003 - SRT-4 -Drive it like you stole it, and work on it like you married it.
Cardomain: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2651950
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Yes, this is considered an upgrade over the stock piece.Arro wrote:A direct replacement.... ok yes or no, this is an *upgrade* over the stock clutch, and offers more grab?
Chris | 00 Dodge Neon (Dark Jewel) | 04 Dodge Neon R/T | 00 Honda S2000 |
Proud member of CYL [www.caughtyalookin.com]
Proud member of CYL [www.caughtyalookin.com]
I got that same clutch from modern. It lasted me about 18months before it blew into pieces on the autox track.
I dont' know what clutch I have in now but the transmission shop put in another type of performance clutch and its holding up much better.
I dont' know what clutch I have in now but the transmission shop put in another type of performance clutch and its holding up much better.
2002 Neon SXT Sold
2006 EVO MR Weekend Warrior
2003 SRT 4 DD
-Kevin
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Yeah I'm kinda concerned about clutch choice, some of those other ones are rediculously priced.... but I don't want something that's going to fail, either.
- A - R - R - O - 2000 - NEON SE - // - 2003 - SRT-4 -Drive it like you stole it, and work on it like you married it.
Cardomain: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2651950
Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon till it Dies" Club #22
- BlackRoseRacing
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To clarify things:
1994/1995 Dodge Neon = Conventional clutch,pressure plate, flywheel
1996-2009 Dodge Neon/Chrysler PT Cruiser = Modular Clutch
As for the PT/Mopar LUK clutch explosio, IDK in N/A form mine has been in the car for a year now with no issues, but I have not Auto-X'd the car yet either
1994/1995 Dodge Neon = Conventional clutch,pressure plate, flywheel
1996-2009 Dodge Neon/Chrysler PT Cruiser = Modular Clutch
As for the PT/Mopar LUK clutch explosio, IDK in N/A form mine has been in the car for a year now with no issues, but I have not Auto-X'd the car yet either
- D-Railed_Neon
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Post resurrection and request for how to sticky. Please and thank you
MY PROJECT LOG My Old 2002 ES AND My 2003 SXT
It is not that we cannot be friends, it's that you are a zombie, and I am almost out of ammo. -Someone
It is not that we cannot be friends, it's that you are a zombie, and I am almost out of ammo. -Someone
also a quick note, mopar clutches are made by sachs not luk
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-My SRT4 swap project log-
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