How-To: Reverse manual valve body install

Sparky828 · Post by **Sparky828** » Wed Nov 16, 2005 9:25 pm

This Howto is for the RMVB that is sold for the 95-2001 Neon with the 3 speed 30TH and 31TH tranny...

(Estimated time - 2 hours)

Tools/Materials:

-RMVB Part# 14165N (Kit includes Pan gasket and expension Plug)
-Flathead Screwdriver
-8mm Open end wrench
-10mm Socket
-18mm Socket or Wrench
-13mm Socket
-Torx T-25 screwdriver
-Gasket Scraper
-5 quarts atf+3/atf+4 tranny fluid
-Tranny filter and gasket set (Optional)
-Deadblow hammer or rubber mallet
-Wooden dowel or 8" extension
-Torque Wrench (Suggested but not required)
-RTV Gasket sealer

1 - Make sure car is in park, rear wheels are blocked, and car is cooled down.

2 - Open hood and locate kickdown linkage and shifter linkage. Use 10mm wrench or socket and loosen up both linkages but DO NOT TAKE THE BOLTS OUT Then carefully pry up linkage and remove wiring to the lock-up solinoid connector (Solinoid located just behind where the tranny dipstick shaft meets the tranny)

3 - Jack the front right side of the car up and support with jackstands.

4 - Remove the pan bolts Starting at the rear and moving towards the front but do not remove the 2 upmost bolts in the front. Now CAREFULLY pry the back fo the pan off draining all of the fluid out... Make sure all of the fuid is out before takeing the other 2 bolts off and removing the pan.

5 - Notice in the corner of the pan there is a magnet. Clean the entire inside of the pan out with the lint-free rag and scrape any remaining material that is left on the gasket contact area of the pan.

6 - Now remove the 2 bolts that hold the tranny filter with the t25 driver... Remember how the filter and gaskey came off. If you are not replacing the filter and filter gasket then set them aside exactly how they came off and make sure they dont come in contact with any dirt.

7 - Remove the parking rod E-Clip that is located on the driver side of the inside of the tranny. Be extremly careful not to bend this clip up too much.

8 - Pry out the governor tubes on the front of the inside of the tranny and discard these. Now take off the (7) 10mm bolts that hold up the valvebody. There are 3 in the front and 4 on the rear. Make sure to hold the valve body up with 1 hand while taking these bolts out.

9 - Carefully let the valvebody straight down and set aside (Id recommend you keep tranny fluid on this and store it in a plastic bag somewhere in a dry area incase u ever need to remove the rmvb)...

10 - Now gently tap the expansion plug in the hole where the lockup solinoid connector was...

11 - Carefully slide the new valvebody into the transmission. The case alignment pin will only allow the valve body to go in the correct way.

12 - Now reinstall the 10mm valvebody bolts ONLY FINGER TIGHT FOR NOW. Once valvebody is flat then you can tighten these bolts to 105in/lbs.

13 - Now realign the parking rod and reinstall the e-clip, make sure the e-clip is properly seated.

14 - Install the new filter and filter gasket or the old one. Tighten the (2) t25 bolts. Do not use rtv on this gasket or the filter.

15 - Install the new pan gasket and pan. Be sure to use rtv on this gasket.

16 - Tighten all pan bolts to 165 in/lbs. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THESE.

17 - Lower car and reinstall the shift linkage exactly how it came off. Discard the kickdown linkage.

18 - Use a funnel to add 4 quarts of transmission fluid.

19 - Start the engine and allow it to idle for a few minutes. Now select each gear individually and count to 10 between gears.

20 - Put in park and re-check tranny fluid level.

21 - Drive vehicle and make sure to go through all the gears. Come back and again re-check trany fluid.

22 - Enjoy your new car...lol

Pics Comming soon...

I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY PROBLEMS YOU HAVE WITH YOUR CAR. IF YOU MESS UP YOUR CAR FOR ANY REASON USING MY HOWTO OR ANY ADVICE I MAY HAVE GIVEN I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE

sullivan · Post by **sullivan** » Tue Feb 17, 2009 7:36 pm

anyone done this????

OB · Post by OB » Tue Feb 17, 2009 8:01 pm

sullivan wrote:anyone done this????

Wow 3 1/2 years and not one reply. I wonder why that is...

ATX FTL

GreeNeons03 · Post by **GreeNeons03** » Tue Feb 17, 2009 8:10 pm

OB wrote:ATX FTL

Sorry couldn't hear you, you were typing too small.

What's this mod supposed to do any way? And I agree, ATX FTL.

OB · Post by OB » Tue Feb 17, 2009 8:35 pm

A manual valve body allows the ATX to be shifted manually. A reverse manual valve body does this, but flip-flops the pattern. For example, if your normal pattern was P R N D 2 1, a RMVB would change it to 1 2 D N R P, from top to bottom. Make sense?

Post by **occasional demons** » Tue Feb 17, 2009 9:18 pm

OB wrote:A manual valve body allows the ATX to be shifted manually. A reverse manual valve body does this, but flip-flops the pattern. For example, if your normal pattern was P R N D 2 1, a RMVB would change it to 1 2 D N R P, from top to bottom. Make sense?

I thought it changes to P R N 1 2 D. /? IIRC the P has to remain the same to engage to parking pawl, but I may be wrong or thinking of the 727/904 TF's

PDF instructions with pics
Tho they show the normal pattern for running through the gears for fluid level check. (Step #23)

You really have to wonder about who writes these things!

Edit:

Torqueflite 404,413,470 (Includes Neon 3 Speed) No Eng. Braking in 1st Shift Pattern PRN123 Year 81-00 Part# 14156N

OB · Post by OB » Tue Feb 17, 2009 9:20 pm

^I suppose it would depend on the MVB in question. I could be wrong in this case.

Anyone know for sure? Very few people have the RMVB on here so this might be a tough question to answer. I need to know this for FAQ purposes as well

BlackRoseRacing · Post by **BlackRoseRacing** » Fri Feb 27, 2009 4:57 am

RMVB = Full manual control, some retain normal shift operation in "D"
Changes your pattern from PRND21 to PRN12D.This way when you manually shift the gears you don't over shoot "D" or "3rd" and throw it into "N" neutral....