how to 20$ flat black paint

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gtxtreme19
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how to 20$ flat black paint

Post by gtxtreme19 » Mon Mar 22, 2010 4:33 pm

First off I take no credit for this im just passing it along I've used this method after i found it on another forum and when you use more cans to cover a little better it is sexy!

The tip to painting a car "flat black" is to choose this paint.

Image

1. prep the surface.. prime, sand with like 6-800 grit sandpaper.
2. take out the can and shake for exactly 60 seconds
3. turn the can over with the nozzle upside down and let out 120 seconds of air.. (this is so you have some control over the amount of spray coming out)
4. buy a can of "elmers glue spray adhesive" and take off the cap that looks like this.. you can take off the orange top and see if this cap is on there.. make sure it has an orange face.. we call these caps "rusto fatcaps" they spray extra wide, with a misted spray.. rather than the traditional cap that is on the cans. which spray in a hairy "dot"
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5. Spray.. make LARGE left to right strokes that feather off on the ends. he last thing you want to do is at the end of the stroke to make a long stop.. paint will gob up and dri eather off like you are dusting Make sure that you are not TOO close to the panel when painting.. about 5 to 6 inches distance is appropriate. when you make strokes make sure each line is overlapped by a half of a stroke.. at first you will see SL drying streaks.. but the one hing that is different about Rustoleum is that it dries SLOWER than other paints.. so it will even out VE nicely.. but keep it in a place that nicely.. but keep it in a place that wont get too much debris.. not very necessary but it helps a bit..(Hint).. you can do a light tack spray and then go over it heavier but it isnt very necessary. I go the expanse of the car rather than panel by panel.. but you can do either.. ive done both with sim results should look like this..

Image
This car was painted in a parking lot with only 5 cans of paint.

To get good at it i suggest practicing on an spare panel or just pull your balls out of your pelvis and go for it. and thats it.. Mr. Totem's flat black instructional post!
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Post by c987long » Mon Mar 22, 2010 4:48 pm

stfu.. wow nice
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Post by Ntyvirus1 » Mon Mar 22, 2010 5:00 pm

any more pictures of cars that you've done?
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Post by gtxtreme19 » Mon Mar 22, 2010 5:20 pm

Ntyvirus1 wrote:any more pictures of cars that you've done?
Not really, I might have a picture of a Hood I did in about 20 seconds. But as stated above I didn't do the gto! This is just a how to I copied to here because it was well written and works pretty good and i used on a friends car (older honda accord)0and my s10( it shows the lines because I didn't use the correct cap) Image
Image
Best pics I can get
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Post by Mr Josh Zombie » Mon Mar 22, 2010 5:27 pm

with ANY method of DIY paint, it's 90% prep. The more time you spend on prep, the better it's going to look.
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Post by gtxtreme19 » Mon Mar 22, 2010 5:35 pm

Agreed my dad actually owns a paint shop in Tennessee with a friend and I'd preffer to paint correctly with proper prep and paint but this works and looks damn good
-Mike
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Post by SinfulNeon » Sat Oct 01, 2011 2:27 am

should I pick up a can of flat clear? since it will be exposed to the sun most of the time?
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Post by nicklaneSXT » Sat Oct 01, 2011 10:46 am

No u don't need it, take it from me do not do the rattle can method use the roll on method much cheaper and more even color, if u don't know the roll on method just search it, there are a few threads on it. :)

*edit

And take a day or two to find fill and sand imperfections. Then make sure its 100% clean before paint save yourself alot of unnecessary sanding and repainting
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Post by SinfulNeon » Sat Oct 01, 2011 12:10 pm

nicklaneSXT wrote:No u don't need it, take it from me do not do the rattle can method use the roll on method much cheaper and more even color, if u don't know the roll on method just search it, there are a few threads on it. :)

*edit

And take a day or two to find fill and sand imperfections. Then make sure its 100% clean before paint save yourself alot of unnecessary sanding and repainting
well I dont plan to do my entire car, only my hood and sxt style wing but I will look into the rolled method as well.

Edit: is this the method your talking about?
http://liambean.hubpages.com/hub/Roll-a ... f-Painting
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Post by gtxtreme19 » Sat Oct 01, 2011 12:25 pm

No you don't need the clear, as far as rolling vs spraying it dealt don't matter, I did my entire car with 6 cans and a set of caps for $28.73 total. Rustoleum has switched to a female cap however so buying the caps you'll have to do a search for "female fat caps" its still gonna have an orange tip. I personally don't like the roll on and wont use it again.
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Skitlz wrote:Gramps, get a GPS.
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Post by SinfulNeon » Sat Oct 01, 2011 12:34 pm

k I will keep an eye out for that.

As for the rolling method all the videos I have seen have been dealing with flat vertical surfaces and I would be concerned that you would still see streaks once it drys, what Im painting at least the hood as a log of curves and angles so I will still with the rattle can since its what Im use to using.
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Post by gtxtreme19 » Sat Oct 01, 2011 12:54 pm

Actually, I buy the majority of my caps from art primo they used to be the only supplier of most of the caps, short of snagging them from hardware stores and walmart.
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Post by nicklaneSXT » Sat Oct 01, 2011 1:49 pm

the elmers glue spray adhesive caps work well, i just bought 1 can of it and used the one cap on all 21 cans (thats how many cans it took me), but when ur done with it turn the paint can upside down and just spray air for like 10 sec or so then wash the cap with paint thinner so u can reuse it. it would be a good idea to pm tam, he did the roll method on is whole car it turned out great. tip: take off the hood and wing to make life easier and the paint job would look better too
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Post by SinfulNeon » Sat Oct 01, 2011 1:57 pm

nicklaneSXT wrote:the elmers glue spray adhesive caps work well, i just bought 1 can of it and used the one cap on all 21 cans (thats how many cans it took me), but when ur done with it turn the paint can upside down and just spray air for like 10 sec or so then wash the cap with paint thinner so u can reuse it. it would be a good idea to pm tam, he did the roll method on is whole car it turned out great. tip: take off the hood and wing to make life easier and the paint job would look better too
ya I plan to take those parts off for sure :) and hang them to make it easier.
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Post by nicklaneSXT » Sat Oct 01, 2011 2:12 pm

great good luck :thumbup:
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Post by SinfulNeon » Sat Oct 01, 2011 2:42 pm

nicklaneSXT wrote:great good luck :thumbup:
thanks ya next Thursday and Friday, I have off so thats when I plan to pick up the supplies and paint on Thurs in the early morning so that it has all day and the following day to dry and then I will install it on my Saturday morning before I head to work. That should be enough time to cure? or should I go with out a hood on Saturday and wait to install all that when I get home later that night?
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Post by sidepipe87 » Sat Oct 01, 2011 7:21 pm

I'll admit... I'm the asshole that would just switch the spray nozzles in the store.


Mike - Any chance you could edit the original post sometime? If you read over it there are a lot of typos and some places it doesn't make sense :lol:
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Post by gtxtreme19 » Sat Oct 01, 2011 7:48 pm

The problem with switching them in store is that a while ago Elmer's switched to a totally different cap that isn't as good, and then a few months ago rustoleum decided they were going to piss the graffiti world off by changing from a female can to a male can. Now there are very, very few companies that make a female fat cap. Anyone wanting to do this will more than likely end up buying their caps from artprimo.com or another website

As far as the typos and what not I'll hop on it when I get out of work and can get to a computer instead of my phone.
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Post by SinfulNeon » Sat Oct 01, 2011 8:40 pm

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Post by gtxtreme19 » Sat Oct 01, 2011 8:50 pm

Yes, but there is only one cap in there that you will need. The fat cap has a wider spray that will not show the overlap lines where you've sprayed.
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Post by SinfulNeon » Sat Oct 01, 2011 8:55 pm

okay so this cap?

http://artprimo.com/catalog/ap-female-f ... -2641.html

also is it okay if I use one of those handles that you can attach to spray cans?

or would this work since it states it comes with a wide spray head?

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Rust-Oleum-Au ... k/17130266
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Post by gtxtreme19 » Sat Oct 01, 2011 10:14 pm

Yes sir that cap is the one. The handle should work I haven't tried it. The caps on that rusto might be ok but I've never used it, you'll get a better finish with the satin posted above
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Post by SinfulNeon » Sat Oct 01, 2011 10:15 pm

gtxtreme19 wrote:Yes sir that cap is the one. The handle should work I haven't tried it. The caps on that rusto might be ok but I've never used it, you'll get a better finish with the satin posted above
well I havent found that satin yet but I will hit a few stores tomorrow so if I do I will grab them :) then order those tips.
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Post by gtxtreme19 » Sat Oct 01, 2011 10:30 pm

Walmart stocks it
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Post by SinfulNeon » Sat Oct 01, 2011 10:37 pm

cant find it on their site but I will certainly look for it in the store if not get the next best thing I can find :)
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Post by SinfulNeon » Tue Oct 04, 2011 11:56 pm

I couldnt find that exact visually spray paint, but I found the brand and the product range and that its black and says satin on it just has a different picture so Im guessing they changed the product image printed on the can.
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Post by SinfulNeon » Fri Oct 07, 2011 1:16 am

well I did the rear spoiler, going to wet sand it tomorrow, but so far it looks good :)
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Post by SinfulNeon » Sat Oct 08, 2011 10:36 pm

well it came out alright, could have been better but given what I had to work with and where, I think it came out alright :)

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Image
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Post by fox02neon » Sun Mar 10, 2013 1:56 am

Nicely done!
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