How-To: Forever Fix RICER FLASH!
How-To: Forever Fix RICER FLASH!
Ok, after months of trial and error, I FINALLY have a REAL solution folks. Here's a quick write up for you!
First, remove the flasher relay from the multi-function switch by removing the 2 screws from the bottom of the cover under the steering wheel.
Next, You will see two tabs on 1 side and 1 tab on the other side holding the cover of the flasher in place. carefully pry this open so that the circuit board is exposed. (i wasnt so careful)
On the back of the circuit board, you will notice a small IC Chip with 8 pins coming off of it. There's is a referance notch in the white line going around it to mark the "top" of the chip.
Pin layout in the picture is as follows
5 4
6 3
7 2
8 1 (note pin 7 trace and pin in red)
Pin 7 is the Lamp Failure circuit, which is what causes the ricer flash when replacing bulbs with LED's. This is the circuit we are going to disable. To do so, take an X-Acto knife and either break the pin where it meets the circuit board, or cut through the copper wire on the circuit board itself to make sure that it is completely disconnected.
Once you've done this, put the cover back on, reinstall into the multi-function switch, and you're DONE! NO MORE FAST FLASH!
I realise this will defiantly upset some vendors now that they dont get to sell their resistors anymore, but in all honesty, this is the SAFEST solution to fast flash...
First, remove the flasher relay from the multi-function switch by removing the 2 screws from the bottom of the cover under the steering wheel.
Next, You will see two tabs on 1 side and 1 tab on the other side holding the cover of the flasher in place. carefully pry this open so that the circuit board is exposed. (i wasnt so careful)
On the back of the circuit board, you will notice a small IC Chip with 8 pins coming off of it. There's is a referance notch in the white line going around it to mark the "top" of the chip.
Pin layout in the picture is as follows
5 4
6 3
7 2
8 1 (note pin 7 trace and pin in red)
Pin 7 is the Lamp Failure circuit, which is what causes the ricer flash when replacing bulbs with LED's. This is the circuit we are going to disable. To do so, take an X-Acto knife and either break the pin where it meets the circuit board, or cut through the copper wire on the circuit board itself to make sure that it is completely disconnected.
Once you've done this, put the cover back on, reinstall into the multi-function switch, and you're DONE! NO MORE FAST FLASH!
I realise this will defiantly upset some vendors now that they dont get to sell their resistors anymore, but in all honesty, this is the SAFEST solution to fast flash...
Last edited by NiteHawk on Sun Dec 30, 2007 8:15 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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But if you're a responsible car owner, you will check your lights periodically to be sure all the lights work, tires are inflated and not worn, brakes work, etc.BlackRoseRacing wrote:The ricer flash is also a kinda warning mechanism incase you have a blown bulb it flashes the signals fast...
Otherwise good info!
Of course we all know how many responsible car owners are out there.
He is unworthy of the name of man who is ignorant of the fact that the diagonal of a square is incommensurable with its side.
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ricer flash? what r u talking about?
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ricer flash is the fast flashing you get when you replace front or rear turn signal incandecent bulbs with LED's....(or if you have a dead bulb).
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i dont want to come off like an ass, but you couldnt be more wrong...
our flashers have a fast flash circuit built into them, it's a load dependant circuit. when there's a heavy load(indicating to it that all bulbs are functional) it blinks propperly, but when a bulb is out, the load is off, thus it flashes fast to let you know you have a dead bulb.
using a differant resistor on the circuit board wont change anything, because the led's are still using a VERY minimal ammount of power. The other "resistor" alternative is whats called a Load Equalizer, basically, one BIG f'in resistor that you connect to the turn signal + and then ground to the chassis. These are dangerous because of the very large amount of heat they produce and any company that sells them for this purpose all have a note saying something to the effect of "DO NOT LET COME IN CONTACT WITH PLASTIC OR PAINTED SURFACES".
My business is led lighting, trust me on this.....i woudnt give yall misinformation
our flashers have a fast flash circuit built into them, it's a load dependant circuit. when there's a heavy load(indicating to it that all bulbs are functional) it blinks propperly, but when a bulb is out, the load is off, thus it flashes fast to let you know you have a dead bulb.
using a differant resistor on the circuit board wont change anything, because the led's are still using a VERY minimal ammount of power. The other "resistor" alternative is whats called a Load Equalizer, basically, one BIG f'in resistor that you connect to the turn signal + and then ground to the chassis. These are dangerous because of the very large amount of heat they produce and any company that sells them for this purpose all have a note saying something to the effect of "DO NOT LET COME IN CONTACT WITH PLASTIC OR PAINTED SURFACES".
My business is led lighting, trust me on this.....i woudnt give yall misinformation
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Actually, I tried this mod on my 2000 flasher after looking up the chip datasheet for the little 8-pin DIP chip that controls the flasher. IIRC, the left/right turn signals worked normally, but the hazard lamp function buzzed very rapidly before burning out the hazard lamp fuse. I might have to try this again to verify.spencersummerfield wrote:anyone done this with a 2000 Neon my flasher relay is way different.. can I just swap a flasher relay from say a 2003 neon into my 2000. will it work??
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A post from this threadNiteHawk wrote:ricer flash is the fast flashing you get when you replace front or rear turn signal incandecent bulbs with LED's....(or if you have a dead bulb).
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I have had this done for the last 2 years no problems.ZeroChad wrote:Has anyone else tried this? I broke the connection at lunch today, and it gave me ricer flash!
All of my bulbs are working (incandescent). I was going to do this before I threw in my LEDs.
I have a 2000 and got a 2003 Flasher so that mine matched the picture.
After I cut the spot, my lights DID flash faster than stock. but NOT THAT fast...
and no matter my LED's or regular bulbs, my turn signals flash faster than normal, but not ricer fast.
p.s. now I have EVERY bulb led no more incandescence anywhere.
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Ah. Maybe I'm just overreacting at the faster rate. I should be led powered by the end of the week too. Well all exept for the high beamsspencersummerfield wrote: After I cut the spot, my lights DID flash faster than stock. but NOT THAT fast...
and no matter my LED's or regular bulbs, my turn signals flash faster than normal, but not ricer fast.
p.s. now I have EVERY bulb led no more incandescence anywhere.
This is Awesome to know.spencersummerfield wrote: I have had this done for the last 2 years no problems.
I have a 2000 and got a 2003 Flasher so that mine matched the picture.
After I cut the spot, my lights DID flash faster than stock. but NOT THAT fast...
and no matter my LED's or regular bulbs, my turn signals flash faster than normal, but not ricer fast.
p.s. now I have EVERY bulb led no more incandescence anywhere.
THANK YOU for this info !!
Looks like I am going to be switching over to LED's very soon ......
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