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LCA nut


 
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mickeytopher
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Post: #1   PostPosted: Mon Jul 20, 2015 5:20 am    Post subject: LCA nut Reply with quote

So I spun the welded nut on the vertical bolt of the LCA. Doing some research I found that you need to cut a hole in the floor board to get to it. My question is does anyone have some rough dimensions as to where to cut from a reference point. I don't want to hack up the floor to much
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occasional demons
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Post: #2   PostPosted: Mon Jul 20, 2015 8:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The link is for a 1gn, but IIRC, the 2gn's have a dimple in the floor above the nut.

You may need to scrape some of the sound deadening to find it tho.

http://forums.neons.org/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=320244
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sidepipe87
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Post: #3   PostPosted: Mon Jul 20, 2015 8:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote




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Post: #4   PostPosted: Mon Jul 20, 2015 8:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep, you can see the depression around the hole that was drilled. So pretty much center up in that.

Tho it appears the clutch pedal might be a bigger pain than the illustration shows. (If you are MTX equipped)

Might just be the pic angle...
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mickeytopher
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Post: #5   PostPosted: Mon Jul 20, 2015 8:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This car is only a one footer, so that might give me a little extra room
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mickeytopher
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Post: #6   PostPosted: Tue Jul 21, 2015 2:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Found the hole and cut it open, just as I thought I'm SOL
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sidepipe87
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Post: #7   PostPosted: Wed Jul 22, 2015 5:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

why SOL if you got it open and can access it now? spray the shit out of it with some penetrant let it sit, apply heat and remove the bolt. Should be down hill from this point.
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Post: #8   PostPosted: Wed Jul 22, 2015 5:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

right, I just don't have the tools right now cussing
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INVUJerry
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Post: #9   PostPosted: Sun Jul 26, 2015 3:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Where are you located? There's gotta be a local that can help.
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mickeytopher
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Post: #10   PostPosted: Sun Jul 26, 2015 4:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm in Grand Rapids MI
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mickeytopher
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Post: #11   PostPosted: Wed Jul 29, 2015 4:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So I got the other control arm out, and not to soon too. The ball joint had no resistance what so ever, the bushing on the vertical part came out with little to no effort, the sway bar link had snapped off at the bottom.
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Post: #12   PostPosted: Sat Aug 01, 2015 1:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Snapping off the nut inside the frame is a known issue with the 1st gen Neons.

I haven't heard of this happening to a 2nd gen (yet), but now that they are getting older, I expect we'll start hearing about this happening more often.


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mickeytopher
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Post: #13   PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2015 4:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can I get away with just cutting the nut and bolt out, and using a locking washer and some loktite? Does anyone know what size bolt it is?
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Post: #14   PostPosted: Thu Aug 06, 2015 5:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you have one have removed, go to a good hardware supplier and get a nut/bolt to match, If you can get one the correct length. Otherwise it is the nut from a hardware, and the bolt from the dealer. Because it is a specific length, and a flange head bolt, they are stupid expensive.

But you can use a regular hex head, and washer if needed, provided the hex fits in the hole.

No need for a lock washer/locktite. If it is torqued to spec, it should not come loose.

If you don't have access to a welder, to re weld the replacement nut to the frame, you will need a helper to hold the nut from turning while the bolt is installed. Use ample antiseize on the bolt for future removal.

If re welding it, tack it in place after the bolt is tightened. Then remove the bolt and antiseize it afterwards.

Nick, I believe it has been a common issue on 2gns for a while now. There are some older threads on here about it.
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