P1684 - P1299

half_twisted · Post by **half_twisted** » Thu Jul 05, 2007 10:48 am

was on the highway when i noticed the engin was reved up on its own without stepping on the gas. so my reaction was to control it by tapping on the break.. soon as i slowed down the check engin light came on and the engin started to loop really bad. I can tell the bad loops are compliments of the ecu keeping it from reving to high. i ran the key dance for codes and got P1684 P1299 anyone experienced this?

Adionik · Post by **Adionik** » Thu Jul 05, 2007 12:14 pm

I get P1684 all the time. Reset it all the time and it always comes back.

:[

half_twisted · Post by **half_twisted** » Thu Jul 05, 2007 12:47 pm

yeah but the difference is that i cant drive my car. it revs to 1500 rpms then drops down to 700 rpms every second.

OB · Post by OB » Thu Jul 05, 2007 3:14 pm

Could be a vacuum situation. Check hoses and PCV. You also might wanna check the related sensors for proper operation (IAC, TPS, MAP etc).

half_twisted · Post by **half_twisted** » Thu Jul 05, 2007 3:58 pm

did change from short ram intake back to stock. im thinking i might have left something loose.. can anyone tell me what the cods are? it would help narrow it down for me. im thinking it might be electrical.

Jamie · Post by **Jamie** » Thu Jul 05, 2007 4:23 pm

hey man,

your 1684 code is just a status and is not an indication of a problem. 1684 just means that the battery has been disconnected with in the last 50 ignition cycles. I dont think it ever goes away. I still have it and i have a scan tool to erase codes... probably a tricky way to get DCX to get us back in to the dealerships

1299 is a different story... 1299 indicates a large vacuum leak. to be specific it is saying:
P1299 - VACUUM LEAK FOUND (IAC FULLY SEATED)

WHEN MONITORED
With the engine running.

SET CONDITION
The MAP sensor signal does not correlate to the TPS signal.

POSSIBLE CAUSES

* Vacuum leak
* MAP sensor defective (out of calibration)
* TPS defective (voltage > 1.5 volts at rest)
* TPS defective (voltage < 3.4 volts at wide open throttle)

which explains your bouncy idle... if you cant find the leak... take some Throttle body cleaner and spray it around the spot you think the leak may be coming from. if you spray it and you hear the engine rev up then thats where your leak is...

Good luck

J

Adionik · Post by **Adionik** » Thu Jul 05, 2007 5:44 pm

I'm pretty sure it isn't your hot air intake man. A short ram wouldn't do that. It's just a little extension from the TB to the filter.

gilly02le · Post by **gilly02le** » Thu Jul 05, 2007 6:03 pm

it'd have to be a vacuum leak somewhere behind the throttle body.. most likely one of the clamps wasn't tight enough.

half_twisted · Post by **half_twisted** » Thu Jul 05, 2007 7:04 pm

yeah im going to check in about 2 more hours.. if its the clamps not being tight then im kicking myself in the pants.. ive been driving the car like this for 4 days since i changed everything back to stock.

half_twisted · Post by **half_twisted** » Thu Jul 05, 2007 10:47 pm

ok so i looked into the engine and found the clamp from behind the t/b had loosen up and unattached itself.. so that ugly rubber thing was wide open.. i still have the check engine light on and waiting for it to turn off.

thanks for the feed back fellas..

60trim · Post by **60trim** » Fri Jul 06, 2007 12:00 am

glad to hear you got it fixed. The bellows tube is notorious for coming loose.

half_twisted · Post by **half_twisted** » Fri Jul 06, 2007 1:54 pm

check engine light still on after 10+ cycles. im thinking one of the sensores might have gotten damaged when the bellows came loose. now i have to look into getting the pricey sensores.

kc2005ptgt · Post by **kc2005ptgt** » Fri Jul 06, 2007 2:52 pm

Try this, remove pos battery cable and fuel pump relay for a 5-10 minutes... then return them, and cycle the key and try to pull codes, should be gone.

gilly02le · Post by **gilly02le** » Fri Jul 06, 2007 3:12 pm

wont hurt anything if the codes are still in the computer... why's it matter? drive for a few weeks and it will wipe the codes, so long as you dont have the error again.. after a certain amount of successful trips, the code will get wiped.. if it doesn't, just pull the power terminal off, go have a beer, come back and re-attach... consume a second immediatly after, as a reward to your hard work lol

half_twisted · Post by **half_twisted** » Sat Jul 07, 2007 12:25 pm

Ive had the codes pop up and go away by them selfs after 3 days without unpluging the bat. its been more than 30 cycles and about 3 days so far and it always pops up. only reason for concern is i have a fix it tecket for mod intake and need to pass a full hour inspection with a state official reffery and so far i already failed 1 inspection for not having the stock air box lid and stock air filter. this reffery is anal about everything, he can fail me for not haveing the right oil level so i just dont want to deal with this guy anymore.. so if my map or tps sensores are bad then i need to get them fixed so i can pass the smog inspection..
ill try to reset the ecu by dissconnecting the bat.. ill keep you guys posted.

Jamie · Post by **Jamie** » Sat Jul 07, 2007 3:44 pm

holy crap!!

what kind of inspection is that for??? what state is that... just so i know not to have a car registered there

OB · Post by OB » Mon Jul 09, 2007 2:25 am

You turn your car on 10 times a day! wowzers youre a busy guy!

A failed TPS and/or MAP sensor would give you much more trouble than just a code. The car would run horribly. If youre rev situation is resolved, the code will eventually make its way out of the computer. D/C'ing the battery is a good way to go to speed things up, depending on what type of code it was. If it comes back after doing that, post back up. Also, be sure to disconnect the NEGATIVE terminal, not the pos as suggested above.

half_twisted · Post by **half_twisted** » Mon Jul 09, 2007 12:37 pm

i live in california. south cali..
basically the guy is giveing me a smog test that i have to pay and if i fail he wont do the repairs. i have to take it to some other shop get the reapairs done then run a smog at that shop to make sure i pass before i take it back to the state reff and pay him again after 1 week of schedualed apointment. then manditorily appear in court say im guilty and pay a fine of $345... all becouse i didnt have a C.A.R.B sticker and stock filter on the intake.

oh and I d/c the bat and the code went away. its been off for about a day now so im happy..
and the 10 cycles was only for testing. i thought the code would go away after 3 cycles.