Budget Drag Plans
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Budget Drag Plans
Been a little slow at work this week and got to thinking about building a 1GN drag car. Below is what I came up with, remember most everything on this list has budget in mind. A few of them are a little on the pricey side.
Engine
1. 90* less intake (1GN)
2. bigger TB (58mm from 3.8, Jeep TB, Mustang TB)
3. MegaSquirt
4. K&N (ram air through driver headlight)
5. UDP
6. Magnum Header (long tube if $$ allows)
7. remove cat
8. replace muffler with bullet style & turndown (2.5”) in tunnel
Suspension
1. solid motor mounts (or filled with urethane)
2. solid trans mount (or filled with urethane)
3. solid bobble (1GN)
4. traction bars
5. replace struts with aluminum bars and use part of stock springs to mild dampening, so the back won't bounce down the track
Drivetrain
1. Maddog STS (as much reduction as available)
2. Booger Bushings (or new solid linkage ends)
3. JonnyMopar Bushings
4. weld diff pin (find a way to make a spool)
5. PT clutch when original wears out
Aero
1. “speed holes” in rear bumper
Safety
1. roll cage
2. master disconnect in tail delete (see weight reduction)
Tires/Wheels
1. 14x6 bubbles
a. 205/50/14 drag radial
b. 20x8x14 slicks
2. 15x4” space saver wheel off of dodge dynasty, old caravan or k car
a. 145/65/15 – 22.4” tall, 118mph rating, 12lbs each
i. If 13x4 can be found, 155/80/13
Weight Reduction
1. remove passenger and rear seat
2. remove passenger and rear seat belts
3. remove all carpeting (including trunk and hood) and sound deadener
4. remove center console
5. remove all interior plastic
6. replace tail lights with delete panels (weld thin steel or make an aluminum one)
7. replace passenger headlight with delete panel
8. remove driver side head light
9. revised in suspension, don't feel like renumbering
10. remove A/C system and power steering pump and hoses (loop hose on rack)
a. replace with manual rack as $$ allows
11. replace OEM intake track with ram air through driver head light
12. replace drivers seat with fixed position race seat (add 5pt and necessary bars)
13. remove mirrors, fill holes
14. remove wipers and wiper motor
15. remove radio, speakers, antenna assembly (plug hole)
16. remove windows/regulators, replace with lexan
17. remove OEM wire harness (after MS is installed)
18. remove extra emissions equipment
19. replace OEM fuel tank with 3 gallon fuel cell
20. remove OEM spoiler
21. remove rear sway bar
22. replace hood with fiberglass or carbon fiber
23. replace fenders with OEM style fiberglass or carbon fiber (if beneficial)
24. replace trunk with fiberglass or carbon fiber
25. remove un-needed fuses/relays
26. if stored indoors, remove all weather stripping (or deal with water in the car)
27. replace OEM steering column with aftermarket
28. replace dash with smaller aluminum dash
29. replace OEM size battery with lawn tractor battery
30. convert to manual brakes
31. remove wiper fluid system (keep if a methanol injection system is planned
opinions?
Engine
1. 90* less intake (1GN)
2. bigger TB (58mm from 3.8, Jeep TB, Mustang TB)
3. MegaSquirt
4. K&N (ram air through driver headlight)
5. UDP
6. Magnum Header (long tube if $$ allows)
7. remove cat
8. replace muffler with bullet style & turndown (2.5”) in tunnel
Suspension
1. solid motor mounts (or filled with urethane)
2. solid trans mount (or filled with urethane)
3. solid bobble (1GN)
4. traction bars
5. replace struts with aluminum bars and use part of stock springs to mild dampening, so the back won't bounce down the track
Drivetrain
1. Maddog STS (as much reduction as available)
2. Booger Bushings (or new solid linkage ends)
3. JonnyMopar Bushings
4. weld diff pin (find a way to make a spool)
5. PT clutch when original wears out
Aero
1. “speed holes” in rear bumper
Safety
1. roll cage
2. master disconnect in tail delete (see weight reduction)
Tires/Wheels
1. 14x6 bubbles
a. 205/50/14 drag radial
b. 20x8x14 slicks
2. 15x4” space saver wheel off of dodge dynasty, old caravan or k car
a. 145/65/15 – 22.4” tall, 118mph rating, 12lbs each
i. If 13x4 can be found, 155/80/13
Weight Reduction
1. remove passenger and rear seat
2. remove passenger and rear seat belts
3. remove all carpeting (including trunk and hood) and sound deadener
4. remove center console
5. remove all interior plastic
6. replace tail lights with delete panels (weld thin steel or make an aluminum one)
7. replace passenger headlight with delete panel
8. remove driver side head light
9. revised in suspension, don't feel like renumbering
10. remove A/C system and power steering pump and hoses (loop hose on rack)
a. replace with manual rack as $$ allows
11. replace OEM intake track with ram air through driver head light
12. replace drivers seat with fixed position race seat (add 5pt and necessary bars)
13. remove mirrors, fill holes
14. remove wipers and wiper motor
15. remove radio, speakers, antenna assembly (plug hole)
16. remove windows/regulators, replace with lexan
17. remove OEM wire harness (after MS is installed)
18. remove extra emissions equipment
19. replace OEM fuel tank with 3 gallon fuel cell
20. remove OEM spoiler
21. remove rear sway bar
22. replace hood with fiberglass or carbon fiber
23. replace fenders with OEM style fiberglass or carbon fiber (if beneficial)
24. replace trunk with fiberglass or carbon fiber
25. remove un-needed fuses/relays
26. if stored indoors, remove all weather stripping (or deal with water in the car)
27. replace OEM steering column with aftermarket
28. replace dash with smaller aluminum dash
29. replace OEM size battery with lawn tractor battery
30. convert to manual brakes
31. remove wiper fluid system (keep if a methanol injection system is planned
opinions?
Last edited by racer12306 on Thu Jul 23, 2009 8:11 am, edited 1 time in total.
-Frank
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For my personal car, I have no idea. Havn't bought or looked at one yet.
I may be helping invujerry with a project that involves a mean SOHC.
I may be helping invujerry with a project that involves a mean SOHC.
-Frank
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Oh yes.
1996 Brilliant Blue sedan, .040" over 12.5:1 motor, crane 005, crane top end, and fully ported and polished head. This is going to be a bad bitch. I want to take the highest N/A dyno this year at carlisle.
1996 Brilliant Blue sedan, .040" over 12.5:1 motor, crane 005, crane top end, and fully ported and polished head. This is going to be a bad bitch. I want to take the highest N/A dyno this year at carlisle.
So many neons so little time.
https://www.youtube.com/user/invujerry/videos
www.instagram.com/invujerry
Rear metal bumper will be useless, remove it.
Remove the front metal bumper or replace it with somthing a little lighter.
Keep the stock steal hood/trunk/doors and cut out all the supports.
Aluminum rear trailing arms.
Remove the rear deck where the seat, seat belts, speakers mount.
Early 4-lug brakes (smaller).
Remove the front metal bumper or replace it with somthing a little lighter.
Keep the stock steal hood/trunk/doors and cut out all the supports.
Aluminum rear trailing arms.
Remove the rear deck where the seat, seat belts, speakers mount.
Early 4-lug brakes (smaller).
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i knew i was forgetting something. i thought of the front crashbar and replacing it, but didn't write it down, thus i forgot.
where would one come across aluminum trailing arms, or would i have to make that?
where would one come across aluminum trailing arms, or would i have to make that?
-Frank
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If you're going to replace the rear stuts with aluminum you could just cut some aluminum to size, drill some holes in the end and bolt it in.racer12306 wrote: where would one come across aluminum trailing arms, or would i have to make that?
EDIT:
Found the link...
http://forums.neons.org/viewtopic.php?f ... ntrol+arms
NOTE: I HAVE EDITED THIS TO MAKE IT ABSOLUTELY CLEAR WHAT TO PURCHASE TO BE COMPARABLE!!!
$285 dollars!!! HOLY OVERPRICED BATMAN!!! Tell me your are kidding right?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!
A monkey can make these in your backyard for half the cost!!!
Let's try smiley's first http://www.smileysracing.com/
Smiley's Racing wrote:
Steel Swaged tube:
DEL QTY DESCRIPTION SKU PRICE EXT PRICE
Smileys Racing Products Smiley's Swaged Steel Tubes: 5-8 SWAGE TUBE 17 IN 36187 14.95 59.80
Smileys Racing Products Smiley's Rod Ends: 1 2 X 5 8 MALE LH EML8-10 8.95 35.80
Smileys Racing Products Smiley's Rod Ends: 1 2 X 5 8 MALE RH EMR810 8.95 35.80
Lefthander Jam Nuts: 5-8 JAM NUT RH 0823105 0.85 3.40
Lefthander Jam Nuts: 5-8 JAM NUT LH 0823105L 0.85 3.40
Total 138.20
Let's see if we can upgrade and still beat the asking price!
Smiley's Racing wrote:
How about Aluminum tube for less weight...
DEL QTY DESCRIPTION SKU PRICE EXT PRICE
Smileys Racing Products Smiley's Rod Ends: 1 2 X 5 8 MALE RH EMR810 8.95 35.80
Lefthander Jam Nuts: 5-8 JAM NUT RH 0823105 0.85 3.40
Lefthander Jam Nuts: 5-8 JAM NUT LH 0823105L 0.85 3.40
AFCO Aluminum Threaded Tubes: 5/8 THREAD TUBE - 17 IN 36087-1 17.50 70.00
Smileys Racing Products Smiley's Rod Ends: 1 2 X 5 8 MALE LH EML8-10 8.95 35.80
Total 148.40
BELOW IS THE COMPARABLE MODEL, YOU GET MORE FOR THE MONEY BECAUSE YOU GET SEALS FOR ADDED LIFE, IF YOU OMIT THE SEALS THE COST COMES IN AT $177.42
Since this is an exercise, let's do Chromemoly...I even added seals to try to hike the price up a little higher! www.summitracing.com
summit racing wrote:
Part # Item Price Qty Line Total Delete
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
AFC-36187 Steering Linkage, Swaged Tube, Steel, Zinc Plated, 7/8 in. Diameter, 17 in. Length, 5/8 in.-18 RH/LH Threads $16.95 $67.80
·The quantity you requested is currently not available.Click here for part availability and tentative ship date information.
SIT-WS5001 Rod End Seals, Seals It, Stainless Steel/Rubber, 1.125 in. O.D., 0.510 in. I.D., .250 in. Height, Set of 6 $11.95 $23.90
SUM-XMAX8 Rod End, Black Max, 5/8 in.-18 RH Male Thread, 1/2 in. Bore, Chromemoly, with Jam Nut, Each $13.69 $54.76
SUM-XMAXL8 Rod End, Black Max, 5/8 in.-18 LH Male Thread, 1/2 in. Bore, Chromemoly, with Jam Nut, Each $13.69 $54.76
Select All
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
If you have deleted any items from your cart or changed any quantities, please press the update button. Sub Total: $201.22
ABOVE IS THE COMPARABLE MODEL, YOU GET MORE FOR THE MONEY BECAUSE YOU GET SEALS FOR ADDED LIFE, IF YOU OMIT THE SEALS THE COST COMES IN AT $177.42
Just nuts! I can build a set of using Chromemoly parts cheaper than what he is selling them for!!! For that price why isn't MannyZ using Chromemoly with aluminum bars??? Talk about lightweight and strong!!!
If you were welding the threaded ends on the tubes and actually making a custom part (like the ones on my car) I could totally see the cost...but for manufactured catalog parts put together on a table...NO WAY!!! There is no custom fabrication involved, all you do is screw the parts together! There is no real labor involved in the making of these parts!
Grade 8, 1/2" bolts, washers, and lock nuts are not hard to find, they are fairly cheap too. Talk about a margin!!!
That may fly with the SRT guys, but there are people here that actually are part owner's of speed/racecar/fab shops, like me, and don't want to see good people here get ripped for "custom" parts that are not very custom at all.
I'm sorry, I just couldn't sit here and watch this...it made me very sad.
BTW to everyone watching who hasn't gotten the clue yet, above is the parts list you need...pretty straight forward. Merry Christmas!!! You are welcome, have fun shopping!
Mike
If you're going to replace the rear stuts with aluminum you could just cut some aluminum to size, drill some holes in the end and bolt it in. No need for fancy endlinks and threaded tubing if this is a budget build.
Oh, I plan on cutting out everything I can to lose weight in the car.
So many neons so little time.
https://www.youtube.com/user/invujerry/videos
www.instagram.com/invujerry
- mopar4life
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My cousin's 1st gen coupe with all those mods and a 5 speed and I think a 50 shot. It runs 8.50 1/8th mile. Youll need alot more motor to go much faster than that unless you got crazy on nitrous or boost.
randomZERO wrote:I'm trying to help you not insult you. This is why neons have a bad name is because people buy all these plastic do dads and crazy lites, the neon is not a christmas tree. .
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Does he have any weight, or anywhere close the amount of weight removed that I posted?
Never said it had to be fast, just something to get onto the track.
Never said it had to be fast, just something to get onto the track.
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8.50 1/8th is like 13.20's or so. The car I'm doing is getting a 12.5:1 motor with the crane 005. I should dyno anywhere from 180-200 whp, and I have a zex kit I'll put on top. It should be a decent 12 second car.
So many neons so little time.
https://www.youtube.com/user/invujerry/videos
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- mopar4life
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He's got EVERYTHING gone outta the thing lol. Just a seat, half a dash to hold his gauges and a shifter. I bet it weighs 1800lbs or less. Speed holes in all the bumpers all that.racer12306 wrote:Does he have any weight, or anywhere close the amount of weight removed that I posted?
Never said it had to be fast, just something to get onto the track.
randomZERO wrote:I'm trying to help you not insult you. This is why neons have a bad name is because people buy all these plastic do dads and crazy lites, the neon is not a christmas tree. .
Thats the route I plan on going, only I'm running a sedan, there is more weight to be cut out of a sedan. I mean, only enough frame of the doors for it to shut, frame only for the hood and trunk, no dash with only a few gauges (tach, water temp, oil pressure). The dash might come later, since I wont have money for those gauges right now.
So many neons so little time.
https://www.youtube.com/user/invujerry/videos
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- mopar4life
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2000lbs shouldnt be too hard to get down to even being 4 door. With just 200hp you could eat Slowbra's on the street.
randomZERO wrote:I'm trying to help you not insult you. This is why neons have a bad name is because people buy all these plastic do dads and crazy lites, the neon is not a christmas tree. .
It's not gonna be on the street, I doubt I'll even have tags for it, but it would be interesting.
So many neons so little time.
https://www.youtube.com/user/invujerry/videos
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- mopar4life
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Yeah, pro street Neon FTW though. He used to street drive it in race trim but the police werent too happy about it.
randomZERO wrote:I'm trying to help you not insult you. This is why neons have a bad name is because people buy all these plastic do dads and crazy lites, the neon is not a christmas tree. .
I mean, I would, but I doubt I'd pass emissions or inspection around here.
So many neons so little time.
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- mopar4life
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Ah, that sucks. Im glad Arkansas doesnt have emissions mess. Kinda kills the mod scene if you gotta pass a emissions test.
randomZERO wrote:I'm trying to help you not insult you. This is why neons have a bad name is because people buy all these plastic do dads and crazy lites, the neon is not a christmas tree. .
Yeah, right now my 98's registration is suspended for failure to appear at emissions. I need to de-mod it to try and get rid of some of the codes I'm throwing to pass emissions.
So many neons so little time.
https://www.youtube.com/user/invujerry/videos
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man iuf your using a sedan, strip the back doors down, use the sheetmetal, and weld it into place.... itd be likea 3 pound door
My AIM Username is sullivan_is_back@hotmail.com (yes @hotmail.com)
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bumping this up and i'm thinking more and more about it. hopefully the monte will be tagged by the end of september and then the neon will officially be for sale.
then i can purchase a 1gn to race.
more stuff like 03blackrt posted will be extremely helpful. i can make stuff cheaper than i can buy stuff.
then i can purchase a 1gn to race.
more stuff like 03blackrt posted will be extremely helpful. i can make stuff cheaper than i can buy stuff.
-Frank
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- bone-yard-racing
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Just a point 1gn shifters bolt to the floor with no bushings so you'd have no where to put Johnny's.
Chop door bars
Manual brakes and steering
Remove the reverse selector from the shifter
Chop the dash bar
Tubular control arms (front and rear)
4 lug and brakes use the 13x5.5 4 lug wheels for the rear
Pull all the insulation/sound deadening
Chop door bars
Manual brakes and steering
Remove the reverse selector from the shifter
Chop the dash bar
Tubular control arms (front and rear)
4 lug and brakes use the 13x5.5 4 lug wheels for the rear
Pull all the insulation/sound deadening
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yeah, i learned that a week or so ago about the shifter.
remove reverse selector? sounds like something i need.
remove reverse selector? sounds like something i need.
-Frank
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not during the racing, but messing around in the pits.
-Frank
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the car could go turbo in the future, might as well get it now.
plus, i would want a performance computer. might as well spend a little more and get 100% adjustability
plus, i would want a performance computer. might as well spend a little more and get 100% adjustability
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Don't worry Frank, when you get this, I've got parts I'll hook you up with. I've got like 3 sohc heads laying around right now, 2 with the EGR delete done (2gn heads lol). I've got an intake mani you can make a ghetto blasters with.
So many neons so little time.
https://www.youtube.com/user/invujerry/videos
www.instagram.com/invujerry