If it is due to piston slap, or excess bearing clearance, then prolly not. 0w would maybe get the oil there faster, so on borderline bearings, they may quiet up a bit faster. But nothing, short of a faster warm up, will stop cold piston slap.xSEED wrote:0W would be better in winter but no oil will be rid of cold start knocking right?
Synthetic Oil Discussion / Which Synthetic Oil?
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Bill
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I've started looking into oil options for the Caliber to achieve a 7500 mile interval. It seems that Pennzoil Ultra is a really good option. Looks of praise for it on BITOG.
Might be checking that out.
Might be checking that out.
-Frank
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Yes, that would be fine. Probably cost a little more than necessary, but it's decent stuff.
4.5 qts of oil wil the standard size filter, almost 5 qts of oil with the oversize filter.
4.5 qts of oil wil the standard size filter, almost 5 qts of oil with the oversize filter.
-Frank
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- BoostinBen
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Any time there's a sale on Mobile 1 I go that route. My motor takes 6.5 quarts so it helps in the cost department.
I use 10w30 and have for years, even on the built motor (except when breaking it in, then I used the high zinc content Autozone generic brand). So far everything has been gravy
I use 10w30 and have for years, even on the built motor (except when breaking it in, then I used the high zinc content Autozone generic brand). So far everything has been gravy
'03 SRT-4 = 516 whp courtesy of Wiseco, Crower, DCR, AGP and TDS.
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I've been using Ultra for 3 oil change for 5000 miles interval. And it seems holding up pretty well. The only problem I have is I lose 1-1.5qts of oil every 3000 miles so I have to put in more during the interval. It seems to be a really nice oil for the price though.racer12306 wrote:I've started looking into oil options for the Caliber to achieve a 7500 mile interval. It seems that Pennzoil Ultra is a really good option. Looks of praise for it on BITOG.
Might be checking that out.
Fan
2000 Dodge Neon ES
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2000 Dodge Neon ES
Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon till it Dies" Club #52
thxs for the info racer12306.. I work a truck shop.. and i asked one of the diesel mechanics if its possible to make an oil change and using the same oil as the diesel trucks use. He said it was ok.. so i dont know if i messed up big time by using "Chevron motor oil 15w40" omg help!!
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It depends on how cold your area gets. 15w40 is way too thick if it gets cold.
You should run 5w30 or 10w30. No real difference between the two, except cold flow ability. The car will probably feel a bit peppier when you get the thick oil out of that engine.
You should run 5w30 or 10w30. No real difference between the two, except cold flow ability. The car will probably feel a bit peppier when you get the thick oil out of that engine.
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- 2005.Neon.SXT
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Is there a significant difference between 5w20 and 5w30? I've got an '05, so it calls for 5w20 and at the shop I work at we try to go by what the computer calls for. There might be a scenario where we have to use 5w30 in a 5w20 vehicle.
When I have money to buy my own oil, I'll be going with Mobil 1 and a Pure One Filter (I get free oil changes at work, but I want to run synthetic).
When I have money to buy my own oil, I'll be going with Mobil 1 and a Pure One Filter (I get free oil changes at work, but I want to run synthetic).
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My understanding is that there were no actual engine changes to require a 5w20 oil to be used, so using 5w30 in your 2005 should be no problem at all.2005.Neon.SXT wrote:Is there a significant difference between 5w20 and 5w30? I've got an '05, so it calls for 5w20 and at the shop I work at we try to go by what the computer calls for. There might be a scenario where we have to use 5w30 in a 5w20 vehicle.
When I have money to buy my own oil, I'll be going with Mobil 1 and a Pure One Filter (I get free oil changes at work, but I want to run synthetic).
Mobil 1 is available just about anywhere oil is sold. Most Walmarts have Mopar brand filters, but other than that you will have to get the Mopar filter from the dealer.brybry wrote:well at my area. its hot as hell.. mobile 1 motor oil & Mopar oil filter can be found at Autozone??
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It really doesn't matter. Both oils will provide sufficient protection. 5w20 is supposed to increase fuel economy slightly.
Mix and match all you want, won't hurt a thing.
Mix and match all you want, won't hurt a thing.
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Chrysler recommends a 5w20 in all MDS engines, due to the thicker oil will not always let the system work properly. The recommendation for 20 may be just a sketchy default for all newer engines.
So in the case of MDS engines, 5w20 will increase fuel mileage by ensuring two cylinders are cut for light cruising. None of this applies to neons tho.
So in the case of MDS engines, 5w20 will increase fuel mileage by ensuring two cylinders are cut for light cruising. None of this applies to neons tho.
Bill
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCMOlha Koba, a psychologist in Kyiv, said that “anger and hate in this situation is a normal reaction and important to validate.” But it is important to channel it into something useful, she said, such as making incendiary bombs out of empty bottles.
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
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occasional demons wrote:Chrysler recommends a 5w20 in all MDS engines, due to the thicker oil will not always let the system work properly. The recommendation for 20 may be just a sketchy default for all newer engines.
So in the case of MDS engines, 5w20 will increase fuel mileage by ensuring two cylinders are cut for light cruising. None of this applies to neons tho.
Never run an MDS engine with anything but 5w20.
There were only a few engines that did not get the 5w20 recommendation, probably because there actually was a problem in running 5w20 in those engines.
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- 2005.Neon.SXT
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How can I check if I have an "MDS" Motor? I would like to run 5w30, but ya... if I need to stay with 5w20, then I will. Not alllll that concerned with fuel economy, since I already get 30 in city.racer12306 wrote:occasional demons wrote:Chrysler recommends a 5w20 in all MDS engines, due to the thicker oil will not always let the system work properly. The recommendation for 20 may be just a sketchy default for all newer engines.
So in the case of MDS engines, 5w20 will increase fuel mileage by ensuring two cylinders are cut for light cruising. None of this applies to neons tho.
Never run an MDS engine with anything but 5w20.
There were only a few engines that did not get the 5w20 recommendation, probably because there actually was a problem in running 5w20 in those engines.
Thanks for all your help so far
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MDS is "Multiple Displacement System" used on, for example the 5.7 liter Hemi's for better fuel economy. It shuts down two cylinders, making it a V6 during light loads/hwy speeds. It still has the parasitic drag of the two cylinders, but the valves are held open enough to keep the compression from building, and fuel/spark is cut. Not 100% as efficient as a V6, but close.
IDK if any V6 engines have it as an option. Definitely no 4 cylinders that I know of, in the Mopar line up. I couldn't see it being cost effective.
IDK if any V6 engines have it as an option. Definitely no 4 cylinders that I know of, in the Mopar line up. I couldn't see it being cost effective.
Bill
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCMOlha Koba, a psychologist in Kyiv, said that “anger and hate in this situation is a normal reaction and important to validate.” But it is important to channel it into something useful, she said, such as making incendiary bombs out of empty bottles.
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester
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Yeah, sorry that's a V8 only thing. I think the 5.7 is the only engine that has it.
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It actually cuts out 4 cylinders.occasional demons wrote:MDS is "Multiple Displacement System" used on, for example the 5.7 liter Hemi's for better fuel economy. It shuts down two cylinders, making it a V6 during light loads/hwy speeds
If I could just figure out how to meld the Outback and the Neon into one car...
- 2005.Neon.SXT
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Sooo... I'm safe to run 5w30? lol. I would love to run Mobil 1 5w30. Plus, I want to buy a Mobil 1 5w30 Oil Cap (I know, lame, but I can't find any 5w20 Mobil 1 oil caps on eBay).occasional demons wrote:MDS is "Multiple Displacement System" used on, for example the 5.7 liter Hemi's for better fuel economy. It shuts down two cylinders, making it a V6 during light loads/hwy speeds. It still has the parasitic drag of the two cylinders, but the valves are held open enough to keep the compression from building, and fuel/spark is cut. Not 100% as efficient as a V6, but close.
IDK if any V6 engines have it as an option. Definitely no 4 cylinders that I know of, in the Mopar line up. I couldn't see it being cost effective.
Anyway, thanks for all the help guys.
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Correct. What was I thinking?? Oh shit wrong thread.Danteneon wrote:It actually cuts out 4 cylinders.occasional demons wrote:MDS is "Multiple Displacement System" used on, for example the 5.7 liter Hemi's for better fuel economy. It shuts down two cylinders, making it a V6 during light loads/hwy speeds
Bill
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCMOlha Koba, a psychologist in Kyiv, said that “anger and hate in this situation is a normal reaction and important to validate.” But it is important to channel it into something useful, she said, such as making incendiary bombs out of empty bottles.
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester
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I believe I already answered that question.racer12306 wrote:It depends on how cold your area gets. 15w40 is way too thick if it gets cold.
You should run 5w30 or 10w30. No real difference between the two, except cold flow ability. The car will probably feel a bit peppier when you get the thick oil out of that engine.
-Frank
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It won't be bogged down by very thick oil so it will probably rev quicker.
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I'm running 5w30 in the SRT as that's what they suggest in the manual. I run Redline in all my cars. I prefer it since it's a true, GrpV, full synthetic. They state that you can go on 15k change intervals. I have trouble trusting any oil that high still so I'm only doing 10k.
Clint ~ 1989 LeBaron GTC TII | 1991 Stealth R/T TT | 2005 SRT-4
Ok, I'm ready for my first oil change on my built motor. I'm 200 miles in, what would be my best choice for oil? I used Brad Penn for the break in oil (lots of zinc )
I will be running N/A for a few months, then onto lots o' boost.
Suggestions?
I will be running N/A for a few months, then onto lots o' boost.
Suggestions?
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