Synthetic Oil Discussion / Which Synthetic Oil?

This is the place to ask questions about your engine components like cams, valves, pistons… just anything that is generally "engine" specific. This also includes questions about exhaust systems such as exhaust manifolds, piping size, mufflers, ect...
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Post by quicksilvr » Tue Jan 02, 2007 10:12 pm

I just switched from Mobil1 5-30 to Penz Plat 5-30 last week. The engine is actually noiser now. I couldn't hardly beleive it. I was expecting it to quiet down a little from the racket I was used to with Mobil1. Now, with the Penz Plat in there, it's louder at idle, both valvetrain and piston slap. :(
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Post by racer12306 » Tue Jan 02, 2007 10:20 pm

wow, im very surprised.
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Post by danman132x » Sat Jan 06, 2007 6:53 pm

I just bought some more Pennzoil Platinum for my next change since it's buy one, get one free at advance auto parts. Now a quick question. Is it ok to add half a qt of Mobil 1 to finish up the oil change, or best to stick with another bottle of Pennzoil? On another note, I was reading about piston slap on other sites, and people and studies claim that changing oil to quiet down piston slap is doing "just that" It may quiet it down, but you will still have it regardless. My car does it when cold, and usually all times at 1300-2000 rpm's after revving a little bit. (only when going back down to idle)
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Post by racer12306 » Sun Jan 07, 2007 12:58 pm

neons have a noisy valvetrain. thats all there is to that. what you think is piston slap is really just a noisy valvetrain.

you can mix the mobil 1 in and have no problems. but personally i would use all pennzoil platnum. if you use the larger capacity filter you can get nearly a full 5 qts in the engine.
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Post by ewetho » Sat Jan 20, 2007 12:11 pm

Just keep the Mobil1 in the trunk for top off if you ever need it and fill with all Pennzoil
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Post by quicksilvr » Sat Jan 20, 2007 2:48 pm

racer12306 wrote:neons have a noisy valvetrain. thats all there is to that. what you think is piston slap is really just a noisy valvetrain.

you can mix the mobil 1 in and have no problems. but personally i would use all pennzoil platnum. if you use the larger capacity filter you can get nearly a full 5 qts in the engine.

Eh, sometimes. I actually have piston slap...along with a noisy valvetrain. I know it's piston slap, because I can hear it coming from the block when I'm under the car. When i listen from the top, it's accompanied by valvetrain noise...but it's different.

It's not bad for engine to switch between different oils is it? Like, I ran two uses of Mobil 1 5w30, and then switched to Pennz Plat for my current use. When I change again, I think I'm going back to Mobil 1 to see if it quiets back down. The new Pennz stuff doesn't have all the crap in it like the old Pennz dino oil that was famous for crudding up engines that tryed to switch to a different oil after using Pennz for a long time does it?
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Post by racer12306 » Sat Jan 20, 2007 3:38 pm

any modern oil will not be the cause of a sludged up engine. modern oil specs are pretty strict.

there are people who put what ever is on sale into their vehicles, so it could be a different oil every single time. there is no harm in it unless you are looking to extend your drain intervals. if you are looking to extend you drain intervals then i would use the same oil each time for consistancy.
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Post by ewetho » Sat Jan 20, 2007 5:55 pm

No it won't hurt anything but the different chemistries will kick stuff up on UOA for a change or two before settling down. PP being noisier, that my friend is VERY uncommon.

I think you may want to try Castrol Syntec 0W-30 made in Germany. It is a heavy 30 that is a true GroupIV like Mobil1 used to be. As it sits now Mobil1 is an OK GrpIII with some minor issues starting to show and PP is the highest quality GRPIII out there with a solid add pack. So, you may want to try the above mentioned Syntec or even Redline.
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Post by danman132x » Sun Jan 21, 2007 1:53 pm

Here is a good site that kc2002acr pointed out in another post. http://bobistheoilguy.com/index.html
I don't know if it's been mentioned on the post yet.
Also check out these video's, particulary the Mobil 1 vid. Has some of the worst test results. http://bobistheoilguy.com/videos.html
I wish he had some Pennzoil Platinum results.
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Post by lawhon » Thu Mar 29, 2007 9:33 pm

If i'm not mistaken, I believe Supertech oil is made by Valvolen(sp) company. I'm gonna check tommorrow just to make sure when I go to work, but if I remember correctly, there the same.
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Post by racer12306 » Thu Mar 29, 2007 9:34 pm

from what i had read on BobistheOilGuy, it was either made by warren or exxonmobil depending on what area you were in.

but it could have changed
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Post by ewetho » Mon Apr 02, 2007 12:15 am

There is like 3 US supplier of the oil and Canada has one too.

Valvoline was not one of them. Seems to do well on short interval.
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Post by TheNumberOneD » Tue May 22, 2007 10:52 pm

i reached 30,000 miles the other day, so i thought i'd do a complete overhall on fluids.

I switched from PP 5w20 to Purple Royal 5w30.

results from first oil change is maybe less valve train noise.

I'll know for sure if its worth the extra 1$ a quart next change.



5$ more all in all, so... i really couldn't, or don't expect any diffrence..
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Post by o2bfishn » Tue May 22, 2007 11:21 pm

how long are you going to go on RP before your next oil change?
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Post by racer12306 » Wed May 23, 2007 9:34 am

where did you get royal purple for $5 a qt
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Post by kc2005ptgt » Wed May 23, 2007 11:43 am

I think he means it was a dollar more than PP, so he paid a total of $5 more. :D Of course, I do not know how much PP is, but I do know that Mobil1 for a 5qt bottle is $23 at both WalMart and Advanced Auto.
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Post by racer12306 » Wed May 23, 2007 1:36 pm

PP by the qt is ~$4 at walmart. it is $19/5qt. this was last i knew

so a dollar more per quart is $5 for royal purple.
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Post by TheNumberOneD » Thu May 24, 2007 1:59 am

racer12306 wrote:PP by the qt is ~$4 at walmart. it is $19/5qt. this was last i knew

so a dollar more per quart is $5 for royal purple.

should have went to walmart then.. lol

i payed 7.xx for a qt of Royal Purple, compared to 6.xx for PP.


but its good for no more than 8000 miles.

I'll change the filter at 3000, and change the oil every 6000 just to be safe.

with PP it was a change every 3000. So it'll actually be saving me money! which i didn't think about. :tardbang:
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Post by o2bfishn » Thu May 24, 2007 7:22 am

why not use amsoil? you can go 15000 miles or one year
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Post by racer12306 » Thu May 24, 2007 8:14 am

TheNumberOneD wrote:
racer12306 wrote:PP by the qt is ~$4 at walmart. it is $19/5qt. this was last i knew

so a dollar more per quart is $5 for royal purple.

should have went to walmart then.. lol

i payed 7.xx for a qt of Royal Purple, compared to 6.xx for PP.


but its good for no more than 8000 miles.

I'll change the filter at 3000, and change the oil every 6000 just to be safe.

with PP it was a change every 3000. So it'll actually be saving me money! which i didn't think about. :tardbang:
or you wasting money with the PP. no need to change any synthetic oil at 3000 miles.

- no need to change your filter at 3000 miles, get a good quality filter and leave it on for the full 6000 miles

- who says RP can only go 8000 miles, an oil change interval is very dependant upon individual driving conditions.

- imo, if you are going to only go 6000 miles between changes stick with one of the standard off the shelf synthetic oil like PP, Mobil 1, Castrol Syntec, Valvoline, Quaker State Q, etc.

- who the hell is charging $6/qt for PP, thats rediculous.
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Post by TheNumberOneD » Sun May 27, 2007 12:56 am

racer12306 wrote:
TheNumberOneD wrote:
racer12306 wrote:PP by the qt is ~$4 at walmart. it is $19/5qt. this was last i knew

so a dollar more per quart is $5 for royal purple.

should have went to walmart then.. lol

i payed 7.xx for a qt of Royal Purple, compared to 6.xx for PP.


but its good for no more than 8000 miles.

I'll change the filter at 3000, and change the oil every 6000 just to be safe.

with PP it was a change every 3000. So it'll actually be saving me money! which i didn't think about. :tardbang:
or you wasting money with the PP. no need to change any synthetic oil at 3000 miles.

- no need to change your filter at 3000 miles, get a good quality filter and leave it on for the full 6000 miles

- who says RP can only go 8000 miles, an oil change interval is very dependant upon individual driving conditions.

- imo, if you are going to only go 6000 miles between changes stick with one of the standard off the shelf synthetic oil like PP, Mobil 1, Castrol Syntec, Valvoline, Quaker State Q, etc.

- who the hell is charging $6/qt for PP, thats rediculous.
I was told to change the filter every 3000 miles, no matter what, even if it was one of those 15,000 mile oils.

And AutoZone charges 6 for pp and 7 for pr, so.... yhea, if they dont charge those prices were you live, then i guess there just screwin us down here.
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Post by racer12306 » Tue May 29, 2007 7:15 pm

I'm sure AutoZone sells the PP for around $6 here too, but I refuse to guy oil at an autoparts store when I can get it for less elsewhere, but when PP is on sale at Advance Auto for Buy One Get One, I stock up.

I was in Walmart this weekend and they must have recently upped their prices because it is now $5/qt and about $20 for a 5qt jug.

There is no need to change a filter at 3000 miles when doing 5000 or 6000 mile oil changes. Most of the time it will last upwards of 10000 miles. If you were to use the AMSOIL and go 15000 miles, you would be foolish to not use the AMSOIL filter, that is the best filter hands down, which is able to withstand the 15000 mile intervals that AMSOIL recommends.
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Post by o2bfishn » Wed May 30, 2007 6:16 pm

:withstupid:

by the way, love your quote under your sig :rofl:
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Post by kc2005ptgt » Wed Jun 13, 2007 12:52 pm

Well, I used Mobile1 for about 35k miles, and I had typical engine noise, etc, kind of embarassing since most people who do NOT drive neons looked at me and told me my car sounded like something was wrong - my respnse was always, "It's a Neon-thing." :lol:

So I switched over to Penzoil Platinum, and lo-n-behold, the damn thing quieted down :shock: It sounds as good as my wifes car which has only 10k miles on her new block (crank walk, replaced under warranty, bad story).

With the $4.00 price difference (WalMart, 19.90, Mobile1 23.90) I decided to give it a shot.

Oh yeah, and I still have my Puralator filter (I think puralator, maybe Pureone) on it, which has about 7.5k miles.
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Post by MoxHair » Wed Jun 13, 2007 1:18 pm

I'm using 0w40 by Mobil1
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Post by racer12306 » Wed Jun 13, 2007 5:22 pm

With the oil usage I've been having lately, Ive been thinking of throwing Rotella 5w40 in on the next change to see what happens.
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Post by ewetho » Wed Jun 13, 2007 6:39 pm

racer12306 -- Before you go hogwild on oil changes for consumption make sure were it is going. If you have a PCV system problem where it is sucking oil through the PCV changing oil brand and type will probably have little effect.

Check make sure it is not going into the intake and then if you are still using oil go to a 10W-30 or 10-40 (it is summer) and try auto-rx to just clean up the carbon on the rings and valve seals.

If the engine looks pretty clean up to through the fill hole then you may try an Engine flush such as Amsoil.
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Post by racer12306 » Wed Jun 13, 2007 6:49 pm

I do have a catch can, but it does not have that much oil in it.

I believe I have added 2qts in the last 3000 miles, and I am about a half a quart low again.

I would hope that this thing doesn't have gunked up stuff, it has had synthetic oil its entire life changed at 5000 miles, and the car has only 68000 miles on it.

I put in a brand new PCV valve from AutoZone at 60000 miles.

I think I'll go out right now and check the intake manifold to see whats going on.

Ill report back in a few.
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Post by racer12306 » Wed Jun 13, 2007 7:54 pm

Good News:
There is no oil in the intake manifold.


Bad News:
There is no oil in the intake manifold.

I doubt the oil is burning off, especially with the super short driving I've been doing lately, so that leaves it as a consumption issue. I also drained the catch can, and only an ounce or two came out. I have drained it one or two other times in this change but minimal amounts came out at those times as well, certainly not 2 qts worth.

Here is a pic of the rag I stuffed into the intake:
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The blotches is what it soaked up.

I guess I could do a shot of Auto-RX to see what happens.
Last edited by racer12306 on Thu Jun 21, 2007 10:09 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by BlackRoseRacing » Thu Jun 14, 2007 6:34 am

With the converters are cars are running in the exhaust system, if your burning oil most of the symptoms will be burned off in the converter and very little will come out the tailpipe.
The reason I state that is due to the oil being sucked into my intake from the Ebay $20 catch can, I can actually smell the oil burning out my tailpipe now since my converter is hollowed out. With my converter still in place, I could not smell the oil burning.
How is your gas mileage?
If your conuming lots of oil your gas mileage will suffer.
The other thing to look at is the oil filter adapter housing. Mine only has 10-15k miles on it and its seaping oil...

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