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Synthetic Oil Discussion / Which Synthetic Oil?

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occasional demons
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Post: #241   PostPosted: Mon Aug 02, 2010 10:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

xSEED wrote:
0W would be better in winter but no oil will be rid of cold start knocking right?


If it is due to piston slap, or excess bearing clearance, then prolly not. 0w would maybe get the oil there faster, so on borderline bearings, they may quiet up a bit faster. But nothing, short of a faster warm up, will stop cold piston slap.
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Post: #242   PostPosted: Sun Aug 08, 2010 2:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Central ca

Fresno

Doesn't knock aka slap when temp is 80 but does when 70 and below

coldest is like 19f here so 5w30 would be enough

no need for 0w30?
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Post: #243   PostPosted: Tue Nov 16, 2010 6:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've started looking into oil options for the Caliber to achieve a 7500 mile interval. It seems that Pennzoil Ultra is a really good option. Looks of praise for it on BITOG.

Might be checking that out.
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Post: #244   PostPosted: Wed Jul 13, 2011 2:08 am    Post subject: :D Reply with quote

So Mobile 1 and Mopar Performance Oil Filter would be good?? and 5 Quarts of oil right?? Ban
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Post: #245   PostPosted: Wed Jul 13, 2011 3:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, that would be fine. Probably cost a little more than necessary, but it's decent stuff.

4.5 qts of oil wil the standard size filter, almost 5 qts of oil with the oversize filter.
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Post: #246   PostPosted: Wed Jul 13, 2011 3:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Any time there's a sale on Mobile 1 I go that route. My motor takes 6.5 quarts so it helps in the cost department.

I use 10w30 and have for years, even on the built motor (except when breaking it in, then I used the high zinc content Autozone generic brand). So far everything has been gravy Smile
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Post: #247   PostPosted: Wed Jul 13, 2011 7:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

racer12306 wrote:
I've started looking into oil options for the Caliber to achieve a 7500 mile interval. It seems that Pennzoil Ultra is a really good option. Looks of praise for it on BITOG.

Might be checking that out.


I've been using Ultra for 3 oil change for 5000 miles interval. And it seems holding up pretty well. The only problem I have is I lose 1-1.5qts of oil every 3000 miles so I have to put in more during the interval. It seems to be a really nice oil for the price though.
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Post: #248   PostPosted: Wed Jul 13, 2011 8:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thxs for the info racer12306.. I work a truck shop.. and i asked one of the diesel mechanics if its possible to make an oil change and using the same oil as the diesel trucks use. He said it was ok.. so i dont know if i messed up big time by using "Chevron motor oil 15w40" omg help!!
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Post: #249   PostPosted: Thu Jul 14, 2011 5:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It depends on how cold your area gets. 15w40 is way too thick if it gets cold.

You should run 5w30 or 10w30. No real difference between the two, except cold flow ability. The car will probably feel a bit peppier when you get the thick oil out of that engine.
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Post: #250   PostPosted: Thu Jul 14, 2011 6:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is there a significant difference between 5w20 and 5w30? I've got an '05, so it calls for 5w20 and at the shop I work at we try to go by what the computer calls for. There might be a scenario where we have to use 5w30 in a 5w20 vehicle.

When I have money to buy my own oil, I'll be going with Mobil 1 and a Pure One Filter (I get free oil changes at work, but I want to run synthetic).
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Post: #251   PostPosted: Thu Jul 14, 2011 6:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

well at my area. its hot as hell.. mobile 1 motor oil & Mopar oil filter can be found at Autozone??
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Post: #252   PostPosted: Fri Jul 15, 2011 3:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

2005.Neon.SXT wrote:
Is there a significant difference between 5w20 and 5w30? I've got an '05, so it calls for 5w20 and at the shop I work at we try to go by what the computer calls for. There might be a scenario where we have to use 5w30 in a 5w20 vehicle.

When I have money to buy my own oil, I'll be going with Mobil 1 and a Pure One Filter (I get free oil changes at work, but I want to run synthetic).


My understanding is that there were no actual engine changes to require a 5w20 oil to be used, so using 5w30 in your 2005 should be no problem at all.

brybry wrote:
well at my area. its hot as hell.. mobile 1 motor oil & Mopar oil filter can be found at Autozone??


Mobil 1 is available just about anywhere oil is sold. Most Walmarts have Mopar brand filters, but other than that you will have to get the Mopar filter from the dealer.
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Post: #253   PostPosted: Fri Jul 15, 2011 7:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok that makes sense. Two questions:

1) What would you all recommend between the two oil weights (5w20 & 5w30)?

2) And should I try to drain ALL of the 5w20 if I switch to 5w30? Or would it be fine to have it mixed a bit for a couple oil changes to get it all out?
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Post: #254   PostPosted: Fri Jul 15, 2011 7:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It really doesn't matter. Both oils will provide sufficient protection. 5w20 is supposed to increase fuel economy slightly.

Mix and match all you want, won't hurt a thing.
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Post: #255   PostPosted: Fri Jul 15, 2011 8:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Chrysler recommends a 5w20 in all MDS engines, due to the thicker oil will not always let the system work properly. The recommendation for 20 may be just a sketchy default for all newer engines.

So in the case of MDS engines, 5w20 will increase fuel mileage by ensuring two cylinders are cut for light cruising. None of this applies to neons tho. Laughing
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Post: #256   PostPosted: Fri Jul 15, 2011 9:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

occasional demons wrote:
Chrysler recommends a 5w20 in all MDS engines, due to the thicker oil will not always let the system work properly. The recommendation for 20 may be just a sketchy default for all newer engines.

So in the case of MDS engines, 5w20 will increase fuel mileage by ensuring two cylinders are cut for light cruising. None of this applies to neons tho. Laughing


withstupid

Never run an MDS engine with anything but 5w20.

There were only a few engines that did not get the 5w20 recommendation, probably because there actually was a problem in running 5w20 in those engines.
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Post: #257   PostPosted: Fri Jul 15, 2011 10:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

racer12306 wrote:
occasional demons wrote:
Chrysler recommends a 5w20 in all MDS engines, due to the thicker oil will not always let the system work properly. The recommendation for 20 may be just a sketchy default for all newer engines.

So in the case of MDS engines, 5w20 will increase fuel mileage by ensuring two cylinders are cut for light cruising. None of this applies to neons tho. Laughing


withstupid

Never run an MDS engine with anything but 5w20.

There were only a few engines that did not get the 5w20 recommendation, probably because there actually was a problem in running 5w20 in those engines.

How can I check if I have an "MDS" Motor? I would like to run 5w30, but ya... if I need to stay with 5w20, then I will. Not alllll that concerned with fuel economy, since I already get 30 in city.

Thanks for all your help so far Smile
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Post: #258   PostPosted: Fri Jul 15, 2011 10:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

MDS is "Multiple Displacement System" used on, for example the 5.7 liter Hemi's for better fuel economy. It shuts down two cylinders, making it a V6 during light loads/hwy speeds. It still has the parasitic drag of the two cylinders, but the valves are held open enough to keep the compression from building, and fuel/spark is cut. Not 100% as efficient as a V6, but close.

IDK if any V6 engines have it as an option. Definitely no 4 cylinders that I know of, in the Mopar line up. I couldn't see it being cost effective.
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Post: #259   PostPosted: Fri Jul 15, 2011 1:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, sorry that's a V8 only thing. I think the 5.7 is the only engine that has it.
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Post: #260   PostPosted: Fri Jul 15, 2011 1:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

occasional demons wrote:
MDS is "Multiple Displacement System" used on, for example the 5.7 liter Hemi's for better fuel economy. It shuts down two cylinders, making it a V6 during light loads/hwy speeds


It actually cuts out 4 cylinders.
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Post: #261   PostPosted: Fri Jul 15, 2011 1:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

occasional demons wrote:
MDS is "Multiple Displacement System" used on, for example the 5.7 liter Hemi's for better fuel economy. It shuts down two cylinders, making it a V6 during light loads/hwy speeds. It still has the parasitic drag of the two cylinders, but the valves are held open enough to keep the compression from building, and fuel/spark is cut. Not 100% as efficient as a V6, but close.

IDK if any V6 engines have it as an option. Definitely no 4 cylinders that I know of, in the Mopar line up. I couldn't see it being cost effective.

Sooo... I'm safe to run 5w30? lol. I would love to run Mobil 1 5w30. Plus, I want to buy a Mobil 1 5w30 Oil Cap (I know, lame, but I can't find any 5w20 Mobil 1 oil caps on eBay).

Anyway, thanks for all the help guys.
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Post: #262   PostPosted: Fri Jul 15, 2011 5:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Danteneon wrote:
occasional demons wrote:
MDS is "Multiple Displacement System" used on, for example the 5.7 liter Hemi's for better fuel economy. It shuts down two cylinders, making it a V6 during light loads/hwy speeds


It actually cuts out 4 cylinders.


Correct. What was I thinking?? Oh shit wrong thread. Laughing
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Post: #263   PostPosted: Tue Jul 19, 2011 1:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mobile 1 5w30 i should use?? my car almost has 69k miles
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Post: #264   PostPosted: Tue Jul 19, 2011 4:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

racer12306 wrote:
It depends on how cold your area gets. 15w40 is way too thick if it gets cold.

You should run 5w30 or 10w30. No real difference between the two, except cold flow ability. The car will probably feel a bit peppier when you get the thick oil out of that engine.


I believe I already answered that question.
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Post: #265   PostPosted: Tue Jul 19, 2011 6:51 pm    Post subject: :p Reply with quote

sorry it wasnt me... my cuzin asked dat question... sorry bout dat.. but now dat im reading it again, wut do u mean by peppier?
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Post: #266   PostPosted: Wed Jul 20, 2011 4:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It won't be bogged down by very thick oil so it will probably rev quicker.
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Post: #267   PostPosted: Mon Jul 25, 2011 1:04 pm    Post subject: :) Reply with quote

racer12306 wrote:
It won't be bogged down by very thick oil so it will probably rev quicker.
thanks man!!!
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Post: #268   PostPosted: Wed Oct 05, 2011 2:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

There’s never been a better time to use Mobil 1 motor oil to keep your engine running like new. Tests conducted using Mobil 1 5W-30. For a limited time, upgrade to Mobil 1






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Post: #269   PostPosted: Wed Nov 02, 2011 8:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm running 5w30 in the SRT as that's what they suggest in the manual. I run Redline in all my cars. I prefer it since it's a true, GrpV, full synthetic. They state that you can go on 15k change intervals. I have trouble trusting any oil that high still so I'm only doing 10k.
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Post: #270   PostPosted: Sun Apr 15, 2012 10:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok, I'm ready for my first oil change on my built motor. I'm 200 miles in, what would be my best choice for oil? I used Brad Penn for the break in oil (lots of zinc Very Happy)

I will be running N/A for a few months, then onto lots o' boost.

Suggestions?
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