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Anatomy of a gauge cluster with some pointers.

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danman132x
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Post: #1   PostPosted: Tue Oct 09, 2007 12:57 pm    Post subject: Anatomy of a gauge cluster with some pointers. Reply with quote

Well I took apart my stock r/t cluster just to see the components of it. I have taken a few first gen clusters apart, and they are extremely similar. One big thing I noticed, is that DC got cheap on these clusters, and did not use screws in all the motor assemblies. Main reason I wanted to get down to the motors, is to see if they are interchangable with different clusters, and from what I can tell, they are. The motor only has four electrical connectors which is driven by the circuit board. I read in the FSM if one motor fails, you would have to replace the entire cluster, but I see otherwise as long as your willing to remove the needle on the motor your replacing. I would be changing the MPH motor to my SRT cluster because its a little "loose" and is wobbly when I do the self test (which I will post a video), but I don't want to throw the MPH off. (I do know its 3500 rpms and 75 MPH in 5th gear, but I dont want to fumble with the needle at that speed trying to stick it on.) Well here are the pics of me taking it apart.

Everything together, with the paper


Paper cover taken off, using a T15 bit for all of these screws.


Where the odo hooks up


Odo clip removed. Two very small pins up have to push in. I used a toothpick.


After that, I gently removed the circuit board. You must be careful not to crack the board and pull evenly everywhere.

Backside where the LEDs and lights are


After removing the front clear panel, you are left with this


Which can be taken out of the white part


The backside, once you turn it around


Some shots of the motors. As you can see in these pics, there are a lot of screws not in the yellow part. Trying to save screws, DC huh?








The odometer, which I removed using a T10 bit.




Part # that was on the front


Here is the motor assembly. They are interchangeble, so if one of yours is all bouncy, you can swap it out from one with another cluster. Just keep in mind, you need to pull the needle off, and calibrating it can be a pain.


Video showing needle bouncy (on MPH gauge)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8PwwdukMnlw

Swaped the motor assemble, much better results
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lVydF5SklWc

Hopefully someone can make good use of this information and anatomy of a cluster. thumbup


Here is a single pic of my srt board

As you can see, the board itself is a different color.
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Last edited by danman132x on Wed Apr 30, 2008 8:07 am; edited 1 time in total
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2k1MotorSport
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Post: #2   PostPosted: Tue Oct 09, 2007 1:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

not bad at all. Don't know if i would take mine apart (prolly because it wouldn't go back together)
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Post: #3   PostPosted: Tue Oct 09, 2007 1:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice. Just out of curiousity, is the mileage of the vehicle stored on the odomoter circuit board? If so, then theoritically another cluster can be purchased, then taken apart and put back together with the old odometer to keep the same exact mileage versus finding a cluster with close mileage?

Just a random thought.

Thanks for sharing.
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danman132x
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Post: #4   PostPosted: Tue Oct 09, 2007 1:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nope Sad It is stored on the main board on one of the chips.
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Post: #5   PostPosted: Tue Oct 09, 2007 3:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

magnus wrote:
Nice. Just out of curiousity, is the mileage of the vehicle stored on the odomoter circuit board? If so, then theoritically another cluster can be purchased, then taken apart and put back together with the old odometer to keep the same exact mileage versus finding a cluster with close mileage?

Just a random thought.

Thanks for sharing.


No. I swapped odo boards when I did my cluster swap years ago and no change, it's stored on the main cluster board.

FYI/N.B.: Non tach and tach boards are non interchangable.
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Post: #6   PostPosted: Tue Oct 09, 2007 10:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

In these videos, I do the cluster self test. As you can see, the MPH needle is very bouncy, which is why I might attempt to switch out the motors. I'll let ya'll know how it goes if I attempt it. Crosses fingers

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MDUweDg0Mbc

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8PwwdukMnlw
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Post: #7   PostPosted: Mon Apr 28, 2008 7:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did it look like the ODO chip had a memory chip installed on it to store the ODO reading? Wonder if it would be easy enough to remove the ODO chip from one cluster to another and get the correct ODO reading. I will have to give it a try and if all else fails oh well.
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Post: #8   PostPosted: Mon Apr 28, 2008 7:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

2k1MotorSport wrote:
not bad at all. Don't know if i would take mine apart (prolly because it wouldn't go back together)
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Post: #9   PostPosted: Mon Apr 28, 2008 8:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Doh
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Post: #10   PostPosted: Mon Apr 28, 2008 9:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

U may have just inspired me to swap my LED's to blue LOL it looks so easy
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Post: #11   PostPosted: Wed Apr 30, 2008 12:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

GREAT write up, Thanks ! thumbup

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Post: #12   PostPosted: Wed Apr 30, 2008 7:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

CrashTeam wrote:
U may have just inspired me to swap my LED's to blue LOL it looks so easy


it is!

and nice write up. i would never do that tho lol
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Post: #13   PostPosted: Wed Apr 30, 2008 8:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks guys. Also added some info on the needle motor assembly.
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Post: #14   PostPosted: Thu Oct 16, 2008 6:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So, what part actually controls the signal for the MPH? Im thinking about doing an SRT swap, but would really like to keep my odometer accurate. Could I swap the face to an SRT face, the MPH motor to an SRT one, and keep my stock board so my odometer stays perfect?
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Post: #15   PostPosted: Thu Oct 16, 2008 8:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

TheRandom1 wrote:
So, what part actually controls the signal for the MPH? Im thinking about doing an SRT swap, but would really like to keep my odometer accurate. Could I swap the face to an SRT face, the MPH motor to an SRT one, and keep my stock board so my odometer stays perfect?


All of the needle motors are the same. The only reason I swapped one of mine out was because it was bad, and bounced the needle very bad. ( but I also got my srt cluster for 40 bucks Very Happy ) If you have a 120 or 140 cluster, and just swap the face, it will be off on the MPH reading. You must swap the entire cluster, including the board to make sure the MPH reading is correct. I accepted the fact that my SRT cluster is 36033 miles higher than what I atually have, but I documented it, and also recorded and took pics of me doing the gauge swap.
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Last edited by danman132x on Thu Oct 16, 2008 10:02 am; edited 2 times in total
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Post: #16   PostPosted: Thu Oct 16, 2008 9:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Damn... alright thanks.
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Post: #17   PostPosted: Sat Apr 25, 2009 4:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

How does the black guage trim come out? Is it attached to the lens or the body of the cluster?
Id like to paint mine yellow.
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Post: #18   PostPosted: Sat Apr 25, 2009 7:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

has anyone figured out how to change the miles so that it is correct when you swap clusters?
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Post: #19   PostPosted: Fri May 01, 2009 2:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I know the BASICS on how it keeps track. i will be lloking into this and hopefully come up with a solution to this problem. chances are it will cost a little money
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Post: #20   PostPosted: Wed Jun 03, 2009 10:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

relenger wrote:
I know the BASICS on how it keeps track. i will be lloking into this and hopefully come up with a solution to this problem. chances are it will cost a little money


If anyone finds this out it'd be great!! I went fron a non-tach to a tach with 55,000 more miles on it then my non-tach had!! Since the boards were non-interchangeable i couldn't just swap the boards over to carry the miliage. It's got to be one of the chips on the boards, i guess it's a matter of finding out which one!
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Post: #21   PostPosted: Tue Jun 09, 2009 11:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Length of the needles is just shy of 2" for the tach and speedo, and just shy of 1-1/2" for the fuel and temp, from dead center. Just in case, you know, someone plans on replacing their needles with clock hands. Like me...
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Post: #22   PostPosted: Sat Nov 28, 2009 6:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i have a question about the odo part you took out
i recently got picked up a new gauge cluster form the pick a part yard from a 2000 neon with a tach
(mine does nto have one) every thing work exept for the odo is wrong
can i swap the odo parts and i would have the right milage on it or not?
i really need an answer before i spend a lot of money to have this done at the dealarship
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Post: #23   PostPosted: Sat Nov 28, 2009 7:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

As long as it's from another Neon (not SRT-4) I believe it will work. Should be 2 screws on the back of the board that hold it in if I'm not mistaken.
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Post: #24   PostPosted: Sat Nov 28, 2009 9:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

TheRandom1 wrote:
As long as it's from another Neon (not SRT-4) I believe it will work. Should be 2 screws on the back of the board that hold it in if I'm not mistaken.

well will that really work? because according to this post it will not
and its a 2000 neon se cluster from an automatic
just trying to find out if it works or not
if i do it the worst that will happen is i have to put the gauge back to the way it was orginally
if you know of anybody that has tried this
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Post: #25   PostPosted: Sat Nov 28, 2009 9:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Actually, the original post is about swapping motors out, has nothing at all to do with the odometer.

And I'm fairly certain it won't work, as the clips or something is different on the SRT odometer/board versus the regular Neon odometer/board.
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Post: #26   PostPosted: Sat Nov 28, 2009 9:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

but i have a non srt board both are stock neon boards
so would it really work or not?
and yes i know but but this is the only post about the odo board in the cluster
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Post: #27   PostPosted: Sat Nov 28, 2009 9:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If it's a non SRT board it SHOULD work. Best way to find out is to plug it in and see. If it works, great. If not, swap the other one back in, it's easy.
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Post: #28   PostPosted: Sat Nov 28, 2009 10:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

TheRandom1 wrote:
If it's a non SRT board it SHOULD work. Best way to find out is to plug it in and see. If it works, great. If not, swap the other one back in, it's easy.

ok i will try tomorrow
but in other post i have found they say it does not work
but try i will and hey if it works because of the same years that would be awesome
or call the dodge dealer on Monday and see if they can change the mileage on the cluster



well i did try and changing the odo boards and it did not work at all
so now time to call the dodge dealer and see if they can change the milage
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Post: #29   PostPosted: Sat Sep 29, 2012 5:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Question regarding the cluster pointers (mileage, RPM, temp and fuel pointers) how to recalibrate the pins?? I have an extra cluster that I want to paint the pointers of...possibly swap pins from another model if possible.
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Post: #30   PostPosted: Sun Sep 30, 2012 5:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

speed and rpm are easy - they go to zero with ignition on. others are more complicated. fill the tank and stick the needle to the "full" position
no idea for the temp. a 5 Volt source could help...
or you wait till the angine has it's "normal" temp and you stick the needle to that position...
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