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Projectors and HIDs: Wiring Writeup

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ZeroChad
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Post: #1   PostPosted: Mon Jun 02, 2008 6:08 pm    Post subject: Projectors and HIDs: Wiring Writeup Reply with quote

This thread is meant to compliment Anthony's thread here.

Projector Wiring

Getting your projectors to work right electrically is easy. All you need to do for light output is plug in the blue 9007 connector on your projectors to your stock headlight connection. Your turn signal bulb fits into the provided housing without modification as well

leds and Halos
The part that people get caught up on are how to wire up your halos and leds. Its pretty simple. Look at the picture below. Note that the black grommets on the left can be pulled out, allowing you to swap out the 194 leds.



The black and white wires to the left are for the leds. The red and black wires on the bottom are for the halos. Most people like wiring the halos to the parking lights and the leds to the turn signals. You can choose to keep them unwired as well. Study the picture below.



You'll be tapping into the wires leading to the turn signal connector for both headlights respectively. Regardless of what you do, solder all of the black wires together, and connect them to the turnsignal ground. You can solder, or use t-taps to join the wires together. Its best to solder, but there is not much room there, and it might be better to use a t-tap then to melt a wiring harness with your soldering iron by mistake.

Aligning your lights
Its a little hare to align you lights by reaching the knobs with a phillips screw driver form behind. What I did was use a long flat head and inched the alignment wheels by sticking through the holes in the core support. There are two plastic slots so that your screw driver wont' slip off the wheel when you do it this way. I think they designed them like that.

High beam


Low beam







HID wiring

I'm not going to cover the wiring for bi-xenon HIDs or 9007 HIDs which are placed in the stock housings, because I don't want to support or promote that.

Installing the bulbs
As shown in Glasswars picture (again below) remove both wire connectors and undo the clip to remove the low-beam bulb. You are probably going to have to drill out the hole to allow your H1 bulbs to fit. Be careful not to allow any of the shavings to fall into the projector, they will make their way into the clear housing, like a snowglobe!

You can cut a small hole in the rubber boot to allow for the hid wiring grommet to make a tight connection like this.



Harnesses
Reasons to use a wiring harness.
    Hids have a higher "warmup" amp draw compared to halogens
    Higher amps means more heat
    More heat means melting wire insulation
    Melting means your car will explode and you will turn into a flaming marshmallow


Obviously you don't want that to happen, so use a wiring harness. You can purchase a premade one off ebay or through a vendor. I prefer to make my own, because its a fun project and it will save you a little money after buying those pricey HIDs and projectors. Here is what a pre-made harness looks like.

These are really plug and play, the only thing you have to take care of are the power and ground connections.

DIY Wiring

Materials
    Inline fuse holder
    30A fuse
    14ga wire (Black and red prefered)
    12V automotive relay
    O ring connectors (14ga for grounds)
    1N4001 Diode (HID on with Hi beam)


This really isn't too bad. I've included a schematic and a representation drawing below. Right click and select view image to see the whole thing


Here you can see the logic isn't too complex just a single relay. Below is a drawing of what the wiring should look like when you are finished, minus the halo and led connections.


Follow these steps to accomplish this.

    1) Unplug your low beam bulb, and replace with the Hid bulb.
    2) Mount the ballasts, and connect the HID bulb to the ballast using the existing wiring.
    3) Tap into the originaly plug that was in your projector low beams. (The one with the purple lens) Send the blue wire to the 85 post on the relay, and the black to the 86 post.
    4) Cut off the connector on the power cord to each ballast. Ground the black wire. Connect both red wires to the 30amp fuse.
    5) Using 14g wire connect the fuse to post 57 on the relay.
    6) Using 14g wire connect post 30 on the relay to ground.


A good place to ground your ballasts are too the headlight ground on the core support. Make sure you have a tight sanded connection when you put them back, or your ecu won't be grounded and your car won't start. (personal experience Tard Bang)


HIDs on with High Beams

This is a great idea if you use your brights a lot. Not only will your light output be better, but also you won't be cycling power to your ballasts (bad for them). The downside is that you can't flash your brights during the day w/o flashing your hids as well.

As shown in the bottom part of the picture above, you will need to link the high to the low beam the leads to the balast. This is done via a diode. This allows for voltage to be seen at the relay coil while the high beams are on. The diode prevents reverse current so that your high beams aren't on when you only want your hids on.

To make the connection, I soldered to short lengths of wire to to the ends of the diode, then connected them to the respective wires. You will want the line of the diode pointed towards the blue low beam wire. Refer to the picture below.


I think that pretty much covers it. Any wiring questions feel free to reply here or in Glasswars' sticky.

Good Luck
-Chad
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Post: #2   PostPosted: Mon Jun 02, 2008 8:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

great write-up man. very detailed... hopefully, and i say this generously some times, it's idiot proof.
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Post: #3   PostPosted: Tue Jun 03, 2008 7:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hudson_Neon wrote:
great write-up man. very detailed... hopefully, and i say this generously some times, it's idiot proof.


Here's to hoping Very Happy
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Post: #4   PostPosted: Fri Jun 06, 2008 9:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bump for sticky. Glasswars and I decided it would be best to have it split into two sections.
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Post: #5   PostPosted: Fri Aug 22, 2008 5:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have installed HID kit without the relay wiring and everything ok for 1 month now.
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Post: #6   PostPosted: Sun Aug 24, 2008 9:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

DRNeon wrote:
I have installed HID kit without the relay wiring and everything ok for 1 month now.


You're really buying yourself some insurance against melting your wiring by using a relay. It's really the high current when you first turn on the HIDs that causes problems.
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Post: #7   PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2008 9:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

But after the start up its safe?.
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Post: #8   PostPosted: Tue Sep 02, 2008 5:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

After the HIDs are running, they draw around 12amps which is reasonable for the stock 18ga wiring. Everytime you turn on the HIDs they draw around 30A for a few seconds. That is way too much for the stock wiring to hold safely.

Passing too much current through a wire causes it to overheat and possibly melt or melt other things. Neon owners have had a lot of problems with the MFS located on the steering column. (even stock) The circuit that powers your headlights passes through this switch. It makes me feel better now to not have the headlights running through there anymore.
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Post: #9   PostPosted: Sat Nov 15, 2008 4:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Okay, so question do I need a HID kit to be able for my leds to light up?

My projectors came with more wires sticking out than yours though.
As a total I got:
4 black
3 red
3 white

also I don't have a light green wire on my headlights switch?

Tried connecting them couple of times already, the way you described, it does not work at all. I tried to connect them other ways also, but no luck at all.
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Post: #10   PostPosted: Sun Nov 16, 2008 8:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

We can work with that. Your first step will be to figure out which wire is which on the headlights. If you refer to the first picture, you should have three different sets of wires coming out of the grommets for the leds. Take the two wires for one of the leds and attach them to an 9V battery. If they light up then you know which one is the positive and which is the ground. If not, reverse the wires on the battery to figure out which is which.

Do the same process for the wires on the bottom for the Halos. Once you have identified your wires, solder all of the grounds together. Solder all of the LED postitives together. Lastly, solder the halo positives together. The middle wire on your turn signal harness should be ground. Attach the combined grounds to this wire.

Since your color code appears to be different, play around, and try attaching the postives for the halo and led to the other two wires on the turn signal harness to obtain various results.

Good luck.
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Post: #11   PostPosted: Mon Dec 01, 2008 1:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The Halos, are they run by 194 style LEDs as well? I assume I can change the colour of them?
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Post: #12   PostPosted: Mon Dec 01, 2008 5:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

BlueBaron wrote:
The Halos, are they run by 194 style LEDs as well? I assume I can change the colour of them?


Refer to this post. Link

They are powered by some small 3mm leds.
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Post: #13   PostPosted: Fri Feb 20, 2009 1:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

joseph_hac wrote:

I'm in the middle of installing a VVME HID kit into my new pair of 03+ projector headlights using a 9007 harness from retrofit-source.com. I have read your howto, stared at your diagram, and spent an hour searching and reading over the help that you have offered others. I just can't figure the high-beams out.

I know on the passenger side, I can just plug the projector harness back into the stock harness and, although the low beam is disconnected from the projector harness and dangling, the high beams will continue to work. What I can't figure out is the drivers side. How am I suppose to use the stock 9007 harness to power the high beams when I need to plug it into my relay harness? Also, where would I wire in the diode to keep the lows on with the high beams? On the harness somewhere? The last question I have is related to the harness itself. As seen in the pics below, the harness they sent me has three connectors (red,black,blue) and a separate female 9007 "shell", and I am unsure of where each of the wires should go. I noticed your diagram also uses red,black, and red for the wires. Does this mean that red is high beam, blue is low beam, and black is ground?

Below are some pictures of what I've got going right now. Please feel free to edit them, reference them, or whatever to help in the explanation.









So in summary, I have the following three questions:

1) How to plug stock 9007 connector into projector for high beams harness AND relay harness for HIDs?

2) Where is the best place to wire in the diode to keep HIDs on with high beams?

3) Which color wires of relay harness (red, black, blue) go where on the stock 9007 connector (black, red, purple)?


Hmm that harness is a little strange. I'm thinking that they might have already incorporated a diode between both of the power wires. If this is the case, it is worth giving it a shot without adding the extra diode.

What you can do is place the pins into the relay harness, and plug it into your stock plug. You can't tell for sure what the color coding for the wires on the harness are without a diagram. Black is mostly likely ground and will go in the middle of the connector. So you might have to swap the two pins around until you get proper functionality. After this is figured out, splice the high beam power and ground from the stock connector to the red and black wires on the projector.

After that is all set up, test the highs and see if the harness had the diode incorporated. If it does then sweet, you're all done, but if not, then you need to splice it between the high beam and low beam on your harness. You should wire it jumpered between the two so that the cathode end is connected to the low beam wire. The cathode is distinguished end by a line.

EDIT: It turned out that the relay harness did have the diode inserted.
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Post: #14   PostPosted: Sat Feb 21, 2009 7:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Useful info from lilsparkplug if you plan on ordering a relay harness.
Quote:
If you get the projector headlights you need to order:

- 4300k H1 HID kit from VVME.com
- 9007 Relay Harness from TheRetroFitsource.com

If you get the projector foglights from ebay you need to order:
- 3000k H3 HID kit from VVME.com
- 893 Relay Harness from TheRetrofitSource.com

The reasons are, all HIDs have the same plugs behind them regardless of their bulb number, but you still need the OEM socket harness to turn the HIDs on. Hence why even though you are buying H1 bulbs because they fit in the headlight, you need a 9007 harness.

If you keep your stock headlights:
- 4300k 9007 HID Kit (single or bi-xenon is up to you, bi-xenon is high beam also)
- 9007 relay harness from theretrofitsource.com

If you keep your stock foglights:
- 3000k 893 HID kit
- 893 harness from theretrofitsource.com

The VVME.com kits do not come with relay harnesses, they come just ready to plug and play. The problem with them is you are plugging them into your factory headlight socket. While this seems okay, its not safe at all. Though the wattage of an HID bulb, 35 watts, is lower than that of your headlight the HID bulb requires near 100,000 volts to ignite the bulb. Your stock wiring system just is NOT capable of handling the current (amps) required by the ballast to do that. Over time your multifunction switch will melt and can cause a fire.

Using the relay harness takes power directly from your battery to fire up the ballasts thus saving your factory wiring system and adding a fuseable link in the middle.

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Post: #15   PostPosted: Tue Jun 16, 2009 5:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Question that could serve as helpful info here. I might add a section about pre-made harness's since people seem to like them. I think its just as easy to make your own though.

ITSANSS wrote:
Got my projector headlights from Modern Performance a week or so ago and my protective wiring harness from eBay a week or so ago.

Just got my HID lights today.

I had some time to kill this past Saturday and decided to wire up my wiring harness. Took ten minutes or so, no problem. I left a couple things unhooked because I didn't have my HID kit yet.

Went to install everything this evening and my wiring diagram for wiring harness is flat GONE. I never lose anything. Everything I have is organized and has a special place to be and it is always there. This NEVER happens. I would be banished from this website if I were to try to use words to describe my mood right now.

I have a black connector with an orange grommet with a red and black wire and I have a big blue plastic connector with a black and a blue wire both from protective wiring harness. I remember reading in the intructions I no longer have, what they went to, but I cannot for the life of me remember or figure it out. I THINK everything else is hooked up correctly, but still have some loose ends that are not making sense.

Please help! I have everything torn apart! By the way, the thermometer in the garage says 101 degrees. Picturing my situation yet? I am furious right now to say the least. lol cussing

Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!


Generally, wire harness's have 5 connections. A 9007 connector that will plug into your stock wiring. This is where you get signal from your MFS to throw the coil on the relay. 2 ballast power connections that you will attack to your ballasts. Then you will have the power and ground wire that you need to hook up to provide power to your new ballasts.

The diagrams in my sticky should help with this. Alternatively, if the harness has two relays, you might have another 9007. One for each side. The only other thing you'd have to worry about are the high beam pass through connections.
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Post: #16   PostPosted: Tue Jun 15, 2010 9:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I dont have the two knobs though to adjust them, mine dont have them
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Post: #17   PostPosted: Tue Jun 15, 2010 10:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

don't miss my how-to!



First and very important information:
Due to our very very weak multifunction switch connector a relay harness is highly recommended for every hid kit installation.
You don't wanna have it looking like this:




more info here


Once you bought a relay harness you may have noticed that they are often connected for "9004" what is completely different to our "9007" system.
That will give you a totally strange light output: high beam is low beam, high beam indicator will glow in low beam and something else. Short said: It will not work how you expected.

So here is a diagram how to connect the harness correctly that your low beams work very fine and also the solenoid in the projectors will flip the deflector when you switch to highbeam - and the projectors will still light up.
(w/o a diode you would not have the right effect cause the low beam turns off when you switch to high beam. That would cause that also the hids turn off - and therefor we have now the diode. The highbeam current flows over the diode to the relay to turn the hids on. That will give you also the headlamp flasher function! In the other direction the diode avoids the current from the low beam from flowing to the bi-xenon solenoids!)

Mostly you have to remove all wires from the plug and rearrange.
The contacts are hold by a barbed hook and absolutely easy to remove with a very small screw driver.
Also you will mostly need a diode (a very simple diode from radioshack) for the correct high beam!

This wiring diagram is found on the internet - but i had to check and correct it.
(So it is half my work - but the most important half...)

You can trust my diagram - i am electronic technician and know what i am talking about...

Colors can vary - mostly ground will be brown (how it has to be in cars).

You see the 9007 plug in the picture:
You can see there 2 black wires = 2 x ground! The white and one black are going to the relais. The other black and blue are going to the high beam solenoid!

One thing more for the relay:
It is absolutely equal if ground or 12V goes to the 85 or 86 - polarisation is not stringent.
Same for the 30 and 87.

You only have to look that 85 & 86 = electromagnet side and 30 & 87 = switched side!






You may have seen other solutions for the "high is low and low is high" problem (like: just change blue and white) - but they solve only half of the problem and will not work right with bi-xenon projectors!!!!
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Post: #18   PostPosted: Tue Jun 15, 2010 10:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice MFS pictures. Maybe that'll scare people into actually using relay harnesses.
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Post: #19   PostPosted: Tue Jun 15, 2010 11:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

even worse:

Marmelade Boy wrote:




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Post: #20   PostPosted: Mon Mar 14, 2011 4:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

bump for a simple (probably stupid) question... this is the OEM style plug on my relay harness..



are the blue wire and the black wire for the high beams? i just tap them into the high beam wires on the stock plug? thanks.
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Post: #21   PostPosted: Mon Mar 14, 2011 6:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

W/o seeing it I can't say for 100%, but yeah. Those two wires probably just pass through the connector allowing you to run the highs off your stock wiring.
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Post: #22   PostPosted: Tue Mar 15, 2011 5:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

the relay harness i have is the same one as in the picture you posted.
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Post: #23   PostPosted: Tue Mar 15, 2011 7:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Then you're right!
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Post: #24   PostPosted: Mon Nov 07, 2011 2:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I bought my car with HID's previously installed by the guy I bought it from. Once and a while when I turn my headlights off, the dash cluster resets, and interior lights flicker on and off once, quickly, and my "fasten seatbelt" dinger chimes. What would make this happen? The prev. owner didn't really know why either.
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Post: #25   PostPosted: Mon Nov 07, 2011 3:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

How are they wired up? Do they come on with your parking lights or low beams? Did he use a relay harness? Where are the ballasts drawing power from?
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Cokedoctor
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Post: #26   PostPosted: Mon Nov 07, 2011 6:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I really don't know. I haven't looked at anything. I'll see if the prev. owner will hop in here and comment, he might remember.
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Post: #27   PostPosted: Mon Nov 07, 2011 8:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

They are installed correctly--I'm 100% certain, I've installed probably 20-25 HID kits.

The harnesses on Justin's car are from DDM, I forget whether or not I installed them with each ballast having it's own ground, or if they were grounded through the relay harness directly to the ground side of the battery. Nevertheless, they are a solid ground. The power for the ballasts are directly from the battery.

When I owned the car, I noticed it was only when you would shut the fog lights off with the low beams on. I never saw any negative effects aside from the split second flicker, so I never messed with it/cared. I can't even count on one hand how many times I wanted to shut the fog lights off. Didn't make much sense to me that's why I never worried about it.

The problem arose when I installed the HID fogs. The only logical reason that I can come up with is the relay harness for the fogs is backfeeding the MFS. Possibly may even have something to do with the aftermarket MFS from Advance Auto.

If you really want it fixed, get rid of the HID fogs.
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Cokedoctor
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Post: #28   PostPosted: Tue Nov 08, 2011 7:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ya, my bad. I stated earlier it was when I turn the headlights off. After thinking about it now, it's only when I turn the fog lights off. I could try replacing the MFS with another...I have a few stockpiled from the junkyard.
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Post: #29   PostPosted: Thu Feb 21, 2013 9:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not sure if spam



or just person who doesn't get English well
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Post: #30   PostPosted: Wed Apr 30, 2014 4:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mondo revival, but what diode did you use to keep the Hids on with the highs?
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