gapping spark plugs
- [DJ]Tomski
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gapping spark plugs
yes im a
can someone post a video or at least detailed pics and a how to for gapping spark plugs? i just bought some plugs and tried gapping them but i think i messed it up. instead of the ground electrode moving and making the gap bigger, it seems that the center electrode/tip chipped or somehow slid back into the spark plug. i did that to two plugs already and i feel like an idiot so please help. btw, the spark plugs are NGK.
can someone post a video or at least detailed pics and a how to for gapping spark plugs? i just bought some plugs and tried gapping them but i think i messed it up. instead of the ground electrode moving and making the gap bigger, it seems that the center electrode/tip chipped or somehow slid back into the spark plug. i did that to two plugs already and i feel like an idiot so please help. btw, the spark plugs are NGK.
j0n wrote:I recently discovered that I was modifying a neon and came to my senses...
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I'll take a shot at this from what I do...
1. Check initial gap of the spark plug, if it is within a few thousandths then its good. ie: rec gap is .035, if you get it between .032 and .038ish you will be good.
2. Adjust accordingly
2.1. To decrease gap a light tap on a solid surface like a concrete floor or a bench works well, I must emphasize LIGHT tap.
2.2. To increase gap use the gapping tool (if you have a round one) to carefully pry the electrode open. You won't be able to see the difference as I believe the human eye can only see a change in .008", and you would only be moving the electrode a thousandth or two (.001" - .002") at a time. The samething here, be very careful when prying the electrode.
1. Check initial gap of the spark plug, if it is within a few thousandths then its good. ie: rec gap is .035, if you get it between .032 and .038ish you will be good.
2. Adjust accordingly
2.1. To decrease gap a light tap on a solid surface like a concrete floor or a bench works well, I must emphasize LIGHT tap.
2.2. To increase gap use the gapping tool (if you have a round one) to carefully pry the electrode open. You won't be able to see the difference as I believe the human eye can only see a change in .008", and you would only be moving the electrode a thousandth or two (.001" - .002") at a time. The samething here, be very careful when prying the electrode.
-Frank
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- [DJ]Tomski
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my plugs didnt come pregapped. they were at .030 i think. i do have the round gapping tool but it seems that somehow i mess it up. idk what im doing wrong. i'll try again and see what happens. it just pisses me off cuz i know its so easy to do but im messing it up.
j0n wrote:I recently discovered that I was modifying a neon and came to my senses...
What are you using to gap them? As long as you're gentle and take your time there is really no reason why gapping plugs should be difficult and/or damaging to the plugs.
-Derek
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Only platnum and iridium plugs come pregapped.jT wrote:im just wondering why you didnt get pre-gapped plugs to start with....
However probably 90% of the time coppers come dead on or pretty damn close.
-Frank
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NOPE, you can get pregapped NGK R's as well. You see them with the same number but ending in -11 or -10 is the PRE-Gapped plug in mm. If you get anther plug say a 11 when you need a 10 you have to adjust them.racer12306 wrote:Only platnum and iridium plugs come pregapped.jT wrote:im just wondering why you didnt get pre-gapped plugs to start with....
However probably 90% of the time coppers come dead on or pretty damn close.
Our gap is so small they don't seem to make our very often. It would be a -09 or 0.9 mm.
Denso does as well, but most of theirs is U11 or so forth.
2004 Neon SE -- Mods -- K&N CAI, R/T Muffler, Booger Bushings, Prothane Suspension & Race MM Inserts, Vitor's TM Inserts
- MyNeonSaysHi
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I also have the little saucer tool. But on the how-to on SRTforums they say to get the wire gapper because its safer. I went to tthe new autozone in town and they don't have the wire ones...
But more on topic:
I pretend I am checking the gap and I slightly push the tool up on the hanger thingy. If I make it too big I will push it down a bit. Its not too bad.
But more on topic:
I pretend I am checking the gap and I slightly push the tool up on the hanger thingy. If I make it too big I will push it down a bit. Its not too bad.
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the 2.0 has a recommended gap of .035"
-Frank
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- bone-yard-racing
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I purchase the stock Champion plugs and never find them very far from the 0.035 gap... just a very slight adjustment is necessary.
Don't mess with the center electrode (the part the emerges from the white insulator).
The part you adjust is the ground electrode that curves up over the center electrode to form the gap... make very small gentle adjustments.
Don't mess with the center electrode (the part the emerges from the white insulator).
The part you adjust is the ground electrode that curves up over the center electrode to form the gap... make very small gentle adjustments.
2011 Honda Fit Sport
to the op, hopefully you didnt mess up the electrodes on two of them like you said, or they might be ruined. the NGK iridiums electrodes are very fragile, you are not suppost to pry on them like you can regular copper plugs, the best way to gap them is using needlenose pliers and your round gapping tool. use the pliers to open the gap and like everyone else said use a solid surface to tap on to close the gap, check the gap often with the tool untill you get it where you need it.
Justin
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- [DJ]Tomski
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whoa old thread lol.r/tguy02 wrote:to the op, hopefully you didnt mess up the electrodes on two of them like you said, or they might be ruined. the NGK iridiums electrodes are very fragile, you are not suppost to pry on them like you can regular copper plugs, the best way to gap them is using needlenose pliers and your round gapping tool. use the pliers to open the gap and like everyone else said use a solid surface to tap on to close the gap, check the gap often with the tool untill you get it where you need it.
no didn't mess with the electrodes, just curved part.
j0n wrote:I recently discovered that I was modifying a neon and came to my senses...
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Just thought I would add this...
http://densoiridium.com/installationguide.phpIRIDIUM POWER™ GAPPING TIPS
Before attempting to gap any DENSO Iridium Power spark plug, please review the specification chart in the front of this catalog to verify the factory-preset gap. In most cases your Iridium Power plugs do not need to be gapped. Even with small variations in the factory set gap the ultra-efficient firing power design will compensate for those small variations.
Should you decide to re-gap your Iridium Power plug, use extreme caution as improper gapping may damage or destroy the Iridium center electrode or porcelain center.
To increase the gap size:
Step 1: Use needle nose pliers or spark plug gapping tool to bend the ground strap up to the desired height. DO NOT LET THE PLIERS OR GAPPING TOOL TOUCH THE IRIDIUM CENTER ELECTRODE OR PORCELAIN.
Step 2: Re-check the gap with a calibrated gapping tool.
To decrease the gap size:
Step 1:Use the same method as above, however bend the ground strap down to the desired height. DO NOT LET THE PLIERS OR GAPPING TOOL TOUCH THE IRIDIUM CENTER ELECTRODE OR PORCELAIN.
Step 2: Re-check the gap with a calibrated gapping tool. WARNING: Failure to follow these directions may permanently damage the spark plug. Note: Never use a round gapping tool to check the gap or to increase or decrease the gap setting.
WARNING: Failure to follow these directions may permanently damage the spark plug. Note: Never use a round gapping tool to check the gap or to increase or decrease the gap setting.
Bill
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hmmm, i always use those
-Frank
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It's not that the wire gapper is safer (I have both the wire and disc gapper), it's that after using the disc one for awhile, it will become less accurate as you are changing the thickness of it as you drag more and more spark plugs on it (less accurate).MyNeonSaysHi wrote:I also have the little saucer tool. But on the how-to on SRTforums they say to get the wire gapper because its safer. I went to tthe new autozone in town and they don't have the wire ones...
But more on topic:
I pretend I am checking the gap and I slightly push the tool up on the hanger thingy. If I make it too big I will push it down a bit. Its not too bad.
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its really not that big of a thing. as long as you are within a few thousandths its fine.
-Frank
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You would not want to use a round one because you would be grinding/rubbing on the center electrode, yes?occasional demons wrote:Just thought I would add this...
http://densoiridium.com/installationguide.phpIRIDIUM POWER™ GAPPING TIPS
Before attempting to gap any DENSO Iridium Power spark plug, please review the specification chart in the front of this catalog to verify the factory-preset gap. In most cases your Iridium Power plugs do not need to be gapped. Even with small variations in the factory set gap the ultra-efficient firing power design will compensate for those small variations.
Should you decide to re-gap your Iridium Power plug, use extreme caution as improper gapping may damage or destroy the Iridium center electrode or porcelain center.
To increase the gap size:
Step 1: Use needle nose pliers or spark plug gapping tool to bend the ground strap up to the desired height. DO NOT LET THE PLIERS OR GAPPING TOOL TOUCH THE IRIDIUM CENTER ELECTRODE OR PORCELAIN.
Step 2: Re-check the gap with a calibrated gapping tool.
To decrease the gap size:
Step 1:Use the same method as above, however bend the ground strap down to the desired height. DO NOT LET THE PLIERS OR GAPPING TOOL TOUCH THE IRIDIUM CENTER ELECTRODE OR PORCELAIN.
Step 2: Re-check the gap with a calibrated gapping tool. WARNING: Failure to follow these directions may permanently damage the spark plug. Note: Never use a round gapping tool to check the gap or to increase or decrease the gap setting.
WARNING: Failure to follow these directions may permanently damage the spark plug. Note: Never use a round gapping tool to check the gap or to increase or decrease the gap setting.
- BlackRoseRacing
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General rule of thumb....
DO NOT trust that a plug is gapped to specs out of the box!
ALWAYS check the plug gap before instalation!
Also note, adjust the gap accordingly....
Stock gap - good to 5000rpm
.045-.050 - good above 5000rpm
The above I recomend for those who may see more than 5000rpm regularly. The stock gap is not that good for those who rev high, from past experience the larger gap helps on N/A motors at high rpms. Now when it comes to forced induction, those seeing 15psi of boost or more may want to change there gap down to around .028 to help prevent the spark from actually blowing out.....
DO NOT trust that a plug is gapped to specs out of the box!
ALWAYS check the plug gap before instalation!
Also note, adjust the gap accordingly....
Stock gap - good to 5000rpm
.045-.050 - good above 5000rpm
The above I recomend for those who may see more than 5000rpm regularly. The stock gap is not that good for those who rev high, from past experience the larger gap helps on N/A motors at high rpms. Now when it comes to forced induction, those seeing 15psi of boost or more may want to change there gap down to around .028 to help prevent the spark from actually blowing out.....
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I think it's funny that my SRT and 2.0 both use a .035 gap. haha. I figured the SXT would need a .040 or something higher..hell maybe even a .050 on the account of the N/A. It never sees above 3500 RPMS
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TheRandom1 wrote:Adionik, you're an asshole, we all know this.
Didn't see anyone say this so thought I would add my 2 cents. Check that the ground electrode is centered over the positve electrode before the install. You will get better plug life and a consistent flame kernel, better mileage, and a slight boost in power. Not enough to feel, but it's there.
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