1991 Dodge Spirit R/T: Part II
1991 Dodge Spirit R/T: Part II
*sigh* The money pit is back.
It's a 1991 Dodge Spirit R/T. 2.2L, DOHC, turbochagerd... all that good stuff. Its build date is 11/21/1990, so it turns 20 years old this year!
Part I of this project consisted of removing the engine and doing a nice rebuild on it. It had a coolant leak from the head gasket and only needed a new head gasket, but it got a full engine rebuild. New Clevite bearings all around. New ARP rod/main/head fasteners. New Mopar and Felpro gaskets. Lots of stuff! It even got its balance shafts removed and intake manifold, cylinder head and exhaust manifold ported. It’s ready to take beating. The car is currently sitting in ”winter storage”, under a car cover under a bunch of snow.
\/ The Spirit the day before going into "storage".
\/ Rebuilding the engine (Spring/Summer 2009)
I’m not sure what “Part II” will consist of. I’d like to make it look a little better and perform a little better. There are two things that need to be taken care of for sure.
1) On the way driving it to storage the radiator fan stopped working. I’m not sure what’s wrong with it. I’d like to repair it so it’s at least drivable. After that I’d like to look into replacing the radiator with a new full aluminum one as well as a new fan and independent fan controller (so the cars ECU no longer controls the fan). The new radiator will also allow plenty of room for a new, much better than stock intercooler.
2) The lash adjusters have started making a little noise. Sounds just like a Neon (which is never a good thing! ). I’ll pull the lash adjusters and see if I can clean/rebuild them. Or I’ll get a new set.
Once these two problems are resolved (with emphasis on the fan/cooling problem) I can move on to the other things.
Exterior:
The paint is starting to lift/separate from the primer/metal. I don’t want the paint/body to get in any worse condition than it is. Here are the options I’ve thought of…
1) Touch up a few spots where the paint is peeling, leaving the exterior mostly as is and inevitably encounter more peeling/lifting.
2) Professional paint job. Lots of money.
3) DIY paint job. Likely over-the-counter spray paint. I think I can produce a pretty nice finish this way. (This is the option I’m leaning towards.)
*** I'd like to maybe do a few exterior modificatins to make it look a little more "cleaner".
Performance:
I’d like to make the car even more fun to drive… by giving it more power! Options I’ve thought of…
1) Keep as is. Around 200whp, very low 14 second quarter mile.
2) Computer, injectors, intercooler, exhaust, ect... 200-300whp, 13 second quarter mile.
3) Larger turbo and supporting upgrades. >400whp, 11 second quarter mile.
4) Even larger turbo and better supporting upgrades. >500whp, <10.99 second quarter mile.
(From what I’ve seen, 450whp typically runs mid 11 second quarter mile in these cars.)
It's a 1991 Dodge Spirit R/T. 2.2L, DOHC, turbochagerd... all that good stuff. Its build date is 11/21/1990, so it turns 20 years old this year!
Part I of this project consisted of removing the engine and doing a nice rebuild on it. It had a coolant leak from the head gasket and only needed a new head gasket, but it got a full engine rebuild. New Clevite bearings all around. New ARP rod/main/head fasteners. New Mopar and Felpro gaskets. Lots of stuff! It even got its balance shafts removed and intake manifold, cylinder head and exhaust manifold ported. It’s ready to take beating. The car is currently sitting in ”winter storage”, under a car cover under a bunch of snow.
\/ The Spirit the day before going into "storage".
\/ Rebuilding the engine (Spring/Summer 2009)
I’m not sure what “Part II” will consist of. I’d like to make it look a little better and perform a little better. There are two things that need to be taken care of for sure.
1) On the way driving it to storage the radiator fan stopped working. I’m not sure what’s wrong with it. I’d like to repair it so it’s at least drivable. After that I’d like to look into replacing the radiator with a new full aluminum one as well as a new fan and independent fan controller (so the cars ECU no longer controls the fan). The new radiator will also allow plenty of room for a new, much better than stock intercooler.
2) The lash adjusters have started making a little noise. Sounds just like a Neon (which is never a good thing! ). I’ll pull the lash adjusters and see if I can clean/rebuild them. Or I’ll get a new set.
Once these two problems are resolved (with emphasis on the fan/cooling problem) I can move on to the other things.
Exterior:
The paint is starting to lift/separate from the primer/metal. I don’t want the paint/body to get in any worse condition than it is. Here are the options I’ve thought of…
1) Touch up a few spots where the paint is peeling, leaving the exterior mostly as is and inevitably encounter more peeling/lifting.
2) Professional paint job. Lots of money.
3) DIY paint job. Likely over-the-counter spray paint. I think I can produce a pretty nice finish this way. (This is the option I’m leaning towards.)
*** I'd like to maybe do a few exterior modificatins to make it look a little more "cleaner".
Performance:
I’d like to make the car even more fun to drive… by giving it more power! Options I’ve thought of…
1) Keep as is. Around 200whp, very low 14 second quarter mile.
2) Computer, injectors, intercooler, exhaust, ect... 200-300whp, 13 second quarter mile.
3) Larger turbo and supporting upgrades. >400whp, 11 second quarter mile.
4) Even larger turbo and better supporting upgrades. >500whp, <10.99 second quarter mile.
(From what I’ve seen, 450whp typically runs mid 11 second quarter mile in these cars.)
- BlackRoseRacing
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2) The lash adjusters have started making a little noise. Sounds just like a Neon (which is never a good thing! ). I’ll pull the lash adjusters and see if I can clean/rebuild them. Or I’ll get a new set.
4484380 - Right side rocker arm - $167msrp each - total $1336 N/A
4484379 - Left side rocker arm - $181.90 msrp each - total $1455.20 N/A
By the looks of the catalog these are similar in design like the 2.0 4cyl and 3.0 V-6 rocker design. I'm wondering if you can get something to work from the other enging models.....
I'll get new ones from FWDP if I need to. But I'm going to pull them apart and see if I can rebuild them if possible. Or I'll design a solid adjustable set that will fit in the rocker arm.BlackRoseRacing wrote:2) The lash adjusters have started making a little noise. Sounds just like a Neon (which is never a good thing! ). I’ll pull the lash adjusters and see if I can clean/rebuild them. Or I’ll get a new set.
4484380 - Right side rocker arm - $167msrp each - total $1336 N/A
4484379 - Left side rocker arm - $181.90 msrp each - total $1455.20 N/A
By the looks of the catalog these are similar in design like the 2.0 4cyl and 3.0 V-6 rocker design. I'm wondering if you can get something to work from the other enging models.....
So is the motor the turbo II or turbo III??
I'm not to uptodate with the older engines.
The car looks nice, I rarely see a spirit r/t.
Interesting fact for your guys, sorta off topic...
I read that some early development 1st gens actually had the 2.2l turbo in them (forgot which gen of motor) but they're's a couple out there...
I'm not to uptodate with the older engines.
The car looks nice, I rarely see a spirit r/t.
Interesting fact for your guys, sorta off topic...
I read that some early development 1st gens actually had the 2.2l turbo in them (forgot which gen of motor) but they're's a couple out there...
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LilSparkPlug wrote:I'm waiting for Tam to come in here and tell you to paint it with Rustoleum.
Tam loves Rustoleum!
occasional demons wrote:So maybe a FuzzyDanteHagan sammich might just beat a FuzzyHagan.
Danteneon wrote:My advice is to fight those urges and enjoy the fact that you have both X and Y chromosomes. And an SRT. And your hand. You don't need a girl.
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This weekend I shovled a bunch of snow off the Spirit. Right now the car cover is currently frozen to the car. Next weekend it's suppose to get above freezing, so I'd like to free it from it's cover, diagnose/fix the fan problem and take it for a bit of a drive if the roads are clean enough.
I had someone wanting to view pics of what I've done to the car, you can view them HEREif you wish.
I had someone wanting to view pics of what I've done to the car, you can view them HEREif you wish.
Re: 1991 Dodge Spirit R/T: Part II
Ha ha ..... You have a money pit.03blackrt wrote:*sigh* The money pit is back.
I've already got 3-4 money pits, but this one = all 3 of mine.
- Nick
-1998 2-dr SOHC MTX= 57mm TB; Maddog STS
-2000 Ply.LX w/MTX = Maddog STS; CAI; 2.5 exh.; 60mm T/B
-2001 ATX w/Syked PCM + Magnum header
-2001 ACR w/SRT T/B bored out to 55mm
Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon till it Dies" Club #000009
-2000 Ply.LX w/MTX = Maddog STS; CAI; 2.5 exh.; 60mm T/B
-2001 ATX w/Syked PCM + Magnum header
-2001 ACR w/SRT T/B bored out to 55mm
Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon till it Dies" Club #000009
Engine bay looks fantastic! Love this car.
Get some nasty suspension on that beast already. Some lower offset wheels, nasty tires, and maybe a front lip. Donesky.
Get some nasty suspension on that beast already. Some lower offset wheels, nasty tires, and maybe a front lip. Donesky.
-Derek
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Woot. Got the car out today.
The fan problem ended up being a bad coolant temp sensor. I replaced that and the fan works fine now.
I swapped out the 10w30 Mobil1 with some 15w50 Mobil1. That took care of a majority of the lifter noise. It runs great and now gets far better hot oil pressure. This engine gets to hot for the 10w30 I was using.
^ The 10w30 would have a hot idle pressure of 1/5th on the gauge. This pic is of the hot oil pressure with 15w50, it's at 2/5. The 10w30 would typically have a hot, 2,000 rpm pressure of around 2/5 while the hot, 2,000 rpm pressure is typically at 1/2 with the 15w50. The cold oil pressure didn't change too much.
The fan problem ended up being a bad coolant temp sensor. I replaced that and the fan works fine now.
I swapped out the 10w30 Mobil1 with some 15w50 Mobil1. That took care of a majority of the lifter noise. It runs great and now gets far better hot oil pressure. This engine gets to hot for the 10w30 I was using.
^ The 10w30 would have a hot idle pressure of 1/5th on the gauge. This pic is of the hot oil pressure with 15w50, it's at 2/5. The 10w30 would typically have a hot, 2,000 rpm pressure of around 2/5 while the hot, 2,000 rpm pressure is typically at 1/2 with the 15w50. The cold oil pressure didn't change too much.
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