Rear Speaker not working HELP!
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- 2GN Member
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Rear Speaker not working HELP!
Alright I have another situation, my rear speaker suddenly stop working and I notice my sound volume was off in the back for a quite time now but didn't realize look at it until today that the rear speaker had stop working.
I have a sony front speaker and deck for a year not, could that be the cause of it?
I check the rear speaker and the wire are still plug in, is there any special fuse spot hidden that made for the rear speaker only?
By the way I have no amp sub system just after market front speaker and deck.
I have a sony front speaker and deck for a year not, could that be the cause of it?
I check the rear speaker and the wire are still plug in, is there any special fuse spot hidden that made for the rear speaker only?
By the way I have no amp sub system just after market front speaker and deck.
This is the section to tell people how to do something, not ask questions. And you have asked this question already. Once is all that is needed.
*Edit*
I see that you deleted your first post, so I moved this to the correct section.
*Edit*
I see that you deleted your first post, so I moved this to the correct section.
If I could just figure out how to meld the Outback and the Neon into one car...
Did you try turing the knobs so the sound comes from just the rear speakers?
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ram50rocket wrote: I must had been mistaken in thinking that NEONS.ORG was just for neons.
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You can also check your speakers by using a VOM (Volt/Ohm Meter). Here's the quick and dirty way to check it...
First, from the underside of the 6x9 speaker, gently push on the speaker cone, with even pressure all the way around the cone. If its sounds or feels "crunchy", or if the movement is very stiff or totally immobilized, the VC is physically damaged and the speaker is toast. If it moves freely, go to the next test.
Pull the plug off the affected speaker. Turn the VOM selector to read ohms (any scale should work, but I use the X1 scale on my Micronta VOM), then touch the probes to the speaker terminals. If you don't get a fluctuation on the display, then you have an open coil and the speaker is dead.
If the speaker passes the resistance test you just did, then check the radio outputs. Turn the VOM to ACV (alternating current volts), then with the radio on and the fader/balance set to send a signal to that corner of the car, test the wires in the speaker plug. If you don't get a reading, that channel on the radio is bad. Time for a new radio, since repairing them isn't cost effective anymore.
I just did this test to find out if the rear speakers in my woman's 2001 Neon were functional. The only difference is that I pulled the radio out of the dash, and took the speaker wire plug out of the back of the radio and tested for AC volts at the actual terminals. I need a couple of 6x9 speakers and it'll be good to go.
I hope this helps you out.
First, from the underside of the 6x9 speaker, gently push on the speaker cone, with even pressure all the way around the cone. If its sounds or feels "crunchy", or if the movement is very stiff or totally immobilized, the VC is physically damaged and the speaker is toast. If it moves freely, go to the next test.
Pull the plug off the affected speaker. Turn the VOM selector to read ohms (any scale should work, but I use the X1 scale on my Micronta VOM), then touch the probes to the speaker terminals. If you don't get a fluctuation on the display, then you have an open coil and the speaker is dead.
If the speaker passes the resistance test you just did, then check the radio outputs. Turn the VOM to ACV (alternating current volts), then with the radio on and the fader/balance set to send a signal to that corner of the car, test the wires in the speaker plug. If you don't get a reading, that channel on the radio is bad. Time for a new radio, since repairing them isn't cost effective anymore.
I just did this test to find out if the rear speakers in my woman's 2001 Neon were functional. The only difference is that I pulled the radio out of the dash, and took the speaker wire plug out of the back of the radio and tested for AC volts at the actual terminals. I need a couple of 6x9 speakers and it'll be good to go.
I hope this helps you out.
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- 2GN Member
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- Joined: Sat Apr 18, 2009 8:37 pm
- Location: Boston, Ma
I didn't check the speaker but I bought a set of new one and it works, but then the deck shut down and reset when ever I bump the volume up to 15 in loud mode where the bass is at and the max volume is 50....what you guys think is this next problem? could it be the fuse behind the deck need to be replace with a higher one instead of the 10?
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- 2GN Member
- Posts: 28
- Joined: Sat Apr 18, 2009 8:37 pm
- Location: Boston, Ma
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- 2GN Member
- Posts: 28
- Joined: Sat Apr 18, 2009 8:37 pm
- Location: Boston, Ma
Lol for got to update this but I fix it like 10 days ago turn out the rear was blown sleigh and when I took the deck out and put it back in, I didn't put the ground wire back where it was like way deep back under... I guess the ground being hook up right behind the deck some where with metal won't do because the deck turn off once I tuen the headlights on lol so yeah thanks anyways.
I'm ridin slow with them vogues pokin out man.
I'm riding slow and I'm hoggin up the city lane.
I'm riding slow and I'm leaning a lac.
I'm riding slow and I'm hoggin up the city lane.
I'm riding slow and I'm leaning a lac.