code 0132

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mutant littleman
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code 0132

Post by mutant littleman » Sat Mar 17, 2012 8:30 pm

Here's the run down, I intially had a code for the upstream o2 heater element going bad so after some looking picked up a new bosch unit direct plug in. Put that in and a short while later noticed that I got another code popping up p0132 which is for o2 voltage high. After some more research found that it could have been the heater wire overheated and melted something so pulled my harness apart and found that the previous owner replaced the alt and did a shit job of wiring it up, he literally twisted the wires together and loosely taped it up :cussing:
I cut out the bad spots and properlly wired it up with heatshrink to keep the crap out. After then hooking it back up and taping the rest of the harness back up, turned it on and got the 0132 code again?

I don't know what else it could be unless I got a defunct o2? Anyone have a clue what else it could be
-Andrew

06 Saab 93 Aero Sportcombi, the power of a SRT with more room.

occasional demons
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Post by occasional demons » Sat Mar 17, 2012 8:40 pm

Possible causes
- Front Heated Oxygen Sensor Bank 1 harness is open or shorted
- Front Heated Oxygen Sensor Bank 1 circuit poor electrical connection
- Faulty Front Heated Oxygen Sensor Bank 1
- Inappropriate fuel pressure
- Faulty fuel injectors
- Intake air leaks may be faulty
- Exhaust gas leaks

So which wires were twisted together? The alternator, or the o2 wires?
Bill
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epic

2001 Neon ES MTX with '02 R/T PCM
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mutant littleman
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Post by mutant littleman » Sat Mar 17, 2012 8:47 pm

it was the alt wires that he twisted together
Image

The o2 wires looked fine no apparent twisting upon my looking
-Andrew

06 Saab 93 Aero Sportcombi, the power of a SRT with more room.

occasional demons
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Post by occasional demons » Sat Mar 17, 2012 8:53 pm

:-k

Well, you may have another issue that the original o2 was not picking up with the heater not getting it up to speed fast enough.

It might be running rich during initial warm up, and by the time the 1st sensor got warm enough to send a signal, the engine was within the proper parameters.
Bill
dblsg wrote:ya'll a bunch of post whores
epic

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mutant littleman
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Post by mutant littleman » Sun Mar 18, 2012 3:24 pm

Yeah I don't know unfortunately what else was done to it. I do know however that the engine has been swapped with a lower milage one.

It does run super rich at start up and gas milage is down too. It ended up failing the e-test due to it so I need to find a fix quick.
Could the downstream o2 be bad? I didn't replace that when I did the upper one.

thanks for the replies OD it does help
-Andrew

06 Saab 93 Aero Sportcombi, the power of a SRT with more room.

occasional demons
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Post by occasional demons » Sun Mar 18, 2012 7:00 pm

The downstream shares the ground with the upstream, but that is about the extent of a common thread between them. The downstream should not impact the short term fuel trim, just long term. (In other words, it shouldn't have a direct impact on fuel consumption)

Being really rich at start up could be causing the high voltage output of the upstream sensor.


Are there any exhaust leaks at the manifold?
Bill
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mutant littleman
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Post by mutant littleman » Sun Mar 18, 2012 9:21 pm

No there are no exhaust leaks that I have noticed unless there is a fine one but it shouldn't have that much of an impact to cause it going so rich.
I'll have to double check there tomorrow and see/hear if there is one that I missed before.
-Andrew

06 Saab 93 Aero Sportcombi, the power of a SRT with more room.

mutant littleman
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Post by mutant littleman » Wed Mar 21, 2012 8:22 pm

OK so partial bump, I checked for exhaust leaks and there are none at the manifold or connection to the pipe.

Any other ideas what may cause it to go rich, plugs are new, air filter is cleanish but not affecting air flow.
Still at a stump and don't really want to give it to a shop to "troubleshoot" $$$
-Andrew

06 Saab 93 Aero Sportcombi, the power of a SRT with more room.

occasional demons
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Post by occasional demons » Wed Mar 21, 2012 9:21 pm

Do you have anyway to check fuel pressure?
Bill
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mutant littleman
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Post by mutant littleman » Sat Apr 07, 2012 9:19 pm

Posting fix, turned out that the aftermarket Bosch unit was messing things up. Picked up a good shape OEM Dodge unit and codes went away and noticed a difference in pickup now
-Andrew

06 Saab 93 Aero Sportcombi, the power of a SRT with more room.

caliEskimo
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Tuning issues with P0132 code being thrown

Post by caliEskimo » Tue Apr 23, 2013 7:13 pm

Hey guys, I have been reading this post and I have been having issues with fuel mixtures, P0132, P0137 codes and a mysterious #2 cylinder spark plug well being full of fuel/oil. One thing that threw me for a loop is that I have replaced the old stock downstream O2 sensor with Bosch, it cleared the code for about a month and now I'm noticing it again.
I have an 00' SE with 206,xxx body miles and 67,xxx miles on the swapped 2.0L SOHC.
My car runs like a champ, great torque and FAST but I am concerned about constant fouled plugs, pi** poor mileage, and lag in 1st gear @ WOT. Cracked ring? Messed up O2 sensors? ECU? Too many mods to jot down...hopefully somebody can help! :)

occasional demons
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Post by occasional demons » Tue Apr 23, 2013 7:34 pm

occasional demons wrote:ClickV
occasional demons wrote: Spark Plug Tube Theads
occasional demons wrote:Well there are a ton of threads on getting them to stay in....


Basically, if they aren't falling out already, but are damaged...
SPARK PLUG TUBE REMOVAL
(1) Remove the cylinder head cover. (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - REMOVAL)
(2) Using locking pliers, remove the tube from the
cylinder head (Fig. 34). Discard old tube.

INSTALLATION
(1) Clean area around spark plug with Mopart
parts cleaner or equivalent.
(2) Apply Mopart Stud and Bearing Mount or
equivalent to a new tube approximately 1 mm (0.039
in.) from the end in a 3 mm (0.118 in.) wide area.
(3) Install sealer end of tube into the cylinder
head. Then carefully install the tube using a hardwood
block and mallet until the tube is seated into
the bottom of the bore.
(4) Install the cylinder head cover. (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - INSTALLATION)
Even tho the mileage is reasonably low, might want to do a compression test after the spark plug tube issues are fixed, and it has been run to clear any oil that may drain in when the plugs are removed.

If the plugs are tight, there shouldn't be any oil fouling from the leaking tubes. But it can ground out the plugs to some extent, dependng on how well the boots seal to the plugs.
Bill
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epic

2001 Neon ES MTX with '02 R/T PCM
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