ducktapetg's 98 r/t

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ducktapetg
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ducktapetg's 98 r/t

Post by ducktapetg » Tue Aug 20, 2013 10:27 am

Hello all, my name is Jason. I am a long time lurker on both this site and neons.org so I figured I should finally contribute.

I picked up a 98 r/t back in 2010 during my senior year of college. I eyed this particular car since high school. It just sat in the owners yard and it would never move. Anyway, one day I saw it on neons.org for sale. I knew instantly it was mine. But enough with that.

I bought it with a bad engine/tranmission. Other than that I thought it was perfect. Of course I found out otherwise. So after the winter, I went to clean it out and opened the trunk. A ton of mice scurried around and ran out. Come to find out, after all those years of sitting, the neon made a good home for these mice. So now, the cat lives on it. Anyway, onto the pictures.

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During the exorcist of mice crap. If you look hard enough, the brown crap is exactly that.

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Those fuckers got everywhere including the roof, airbag, seats and especially the trunk. It was a gross nightmare but I cleaned most of it. I still think they screwed up the air blower, but haven't gotten to that part yet.

So, to remedy the engine/transmission issue, I bought a parts car the next summer (2011) with a bunch of extra goodies that I can use. So onto the pictures of the engine removal/installation.

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Once that was done, I tested it and it worked perfectly. So, for fun I was driving down the driveway. Keep in mind I have yet (as of 8/20/2013) to drive it. So I hit the brake, boom, pedal to the floor and it is pissing brake fluid from the rear brake lines. Of course it couldn't of happened before the engine was taken out just to make life that much easier. I was done with it for a little bit. It was also getting cold and I lived 2 hours away from the car. As she sat then (note, the rims are off my DD because they have summer tires).

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Which brings me to now. I have since gone back to school for my masters which ties up a lot of time and money. So progress will be just as slow as it was before, but I have a real excuse this time.

So my overall goals for this car is to learn (or understand) and do pretty much everything. I would like to do a SRT swap including all wiring and such. But, I want to get this to drive and move first so that will be in the far future.

Feel free to give me opinions/advice as I am open to criticism.
Jason

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r/tguy02
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Post by r/tguy02 » Tue Aug 20, 2013 10:42 am

LMAO of at the mice deterrent!

those buggers can cause a lot of damage and im sure once you start driving it again you'll slowly find more wires they chewed up and stuff isnt working. Luckily you do have a donor car with good harnesses. :thumbup:

where did the brake line blow out or arent you sure yet?

btw whats the classic car in the garage?
Justin
[02 R/T sold][00 Highline sold][04 r/t scrapped][95 NYG Sport coupe][01 r/t DD]
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2931823

ducktapetg
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Post by ducktapetg » Tue Aug 20, 2013 10:58 am

A few months ago, I got the car out so I could swap rims again.

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Then, when I was working on my 01 sunroof, I decided to clean them up a little bit

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Continuing on. I decided to start "repairing" the rear of the car and work my way forward. I recently bought so SRT ACR rims to go on along with some BC coilovers. Also, when I was dragging the car around the yard with the bad engine, I bent a rear lateral arm which I have to replace. Before you say anything, I was/am well aware how much that was going to suck. But saying that, I started on with that anyway. It was pretty rusty down there so I soaked most everything with PB blaster prior to the attempt(s).

So you can get an idea
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Removing the spindle bolt on the drivers side went "smoothly" but the passengers side was seized solid. Luckily, I had a spare spindle laying around, so I just swapped those out. Still, huge pain in the ass and I haven't gotten to the frame bolts.

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While I was there, I removed basically everything to paint it. I am not rich enough to afford powder coat but I do know that is the way to go. I also installed the BCs and Russel braided stainless brake lines.

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Next, I dropped the tank to help with removal of the brake lines along with making it slightly easier to get to the nuts on the frame bolts for the lateral arms. While the tank is out, a high flow Walbro fuel pump is going in.

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Need to get new straps. One is almost rusted completely through.
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Soaking the bolts some more
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I also removed both left rear and right rear brake lines. One already had a pin hole in it and it was only a matter of time before the other developed the same problem.

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Does anyone know what that white cylinder does? I have ABS so I am thinking it is a pressure regulator of some sort. I plan on bending up my own line. I know about the recall but I cannot find any local dealerships who will order it. Plus, I am sure the price went up from the original 7bucks. I found some line that I am going to use off of speedway motors.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/3-16-Inch ... ,1990.html

I also ordered some lateral link arm material from them so I can make a DCR like lateral link. I should have more pictures of that stuff Friday when it all comes in.

Anyway, I also took some pictures of the ACR rims mocked up. Originally before I ripped the car apart and while I was working on the rear.

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I think they are going to look great. Time will tell.
Jason

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ducktapetg
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Post by ducktapetg » Tue Aug 20, 2013 11:22 am

r/tguy02 wrote:LMAO of at the mice deterrent!

those buggers can cause a lot of damage and im sure once you start driving it again you'll slowly find more wires they chewed up and stuff isnt working. Luckily you do have a donor car with good harnesses. :thumbup:

where did the brake line blow out or arent you sure yet?

btw whats the classic car in the garage?
Damn, beat me to it. The brake line blew out right behind the gas tank. I plan on replacing both of the rear lines because they are both in the same shape. Also, the car is a 53 Dodge Coronet with the original Red Ram Hemi (241). It is a boat but has cool features. The drivers side mirror has a temp gauge in it.
Jason

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r/tguy02
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Post by r/tguy02 » Tue Aug 20, 2013 11:28 am

ah yes common place to blow out. btw the "white cyl" is a proportioning valve.
love the acr bbs rims, i'm jealous
man i'd like to see a few more pics of that 53 :)
Justin
[02 R/T sold][00 Highline sold][04 r/t scrapped][95 NYG Sport coupe][01 r/t DD]
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2931823

ducktapetg
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Post by ducktapetg » Wed Aug 21, 2013 10:04 am

You, sir, are in luck. I don't have any real recent pictures but I have pictures from the day my dad got her. The valve cover has since been added.

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Jason

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r/tguy02
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Post by r/tguy02 » Wed Aug 21, 2013 11:31 am

wow that thing is in beautiful condition for its age, it all original or has it been restored once already?
Justin
[02 R/T sold][00 Highline sold][04 r/t scrapped][95 NYG Sport coupe][01 r/t DD]
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2931823

ducktapetg
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Post by ducktapetg » Wed Aug 21, 2013 4:00 pm

It has been fixed by previous owner, but horribly. Bondo everywhere along with basically missing floor pans. It is in brown primer right now but eventually it will get done. My dad has a bunch going on so he really can't get to it.
Jason

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r/tguy02
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Post by r/tguy02 » Wed Aug 21, 2013 6:20 pm

At least paint, shitty or not, preserved it. Best of luck, I'm sure it won't be an easy job
Justin
[02 R/T sold][00 Highline sold][04 r/t scrapped][95 NYG Sport coupe][01 r/t DD]
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2931823

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Post by ducktapetg » Fri Aug 23, 2013 3:09 pm

Got a package today :D

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Monday or Tuesday this week I got the rear lateral arms removed. What a pain in the ass. I went through 4 cans of PB blaster just trying to soak/penetrate the rust. But its done. I ordered some alum 6061-T6 RH/LH threaded rods to make my own rear lateral arms. I think they will look good but I plan on mocking them up tomorrow. As for now, the rod ends I have are for a 1/2" bolt and the through bolt is a 12mm so there is a little slop. I will look for alternatives to drilling out the rear hole for a 1/2" bolt. Onto the pics.

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Jason

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ducktapetg
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Post by ducktapetg » Wed Aug 28, 2013 11:14 am

So got the adjustable rear links on and they were a little loose. The rod ends I have are for a 1/2" bolt where as the bolt is a 12mm. So, in the spirit of keeping this a project, I plan on buying some stainless rod with the proper OD to match the rod end bushing and putting a through hole with a tighter clearance for the 12mm bolt. I just want to eliminate as much slope as possible from the rear suspension. This will hopefully start next week on the lathe. Heres one pic of the test fit.

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This weekend, I plan on cleaning the underside of the car and removing the muffler. Then, I will spray some Rustoleum Undercoat Paint to give it a cleaner look under here. School started this week so I am running out of "free" time. :banghead: Also, as I see this picture, I am going to paint those cam nuts on the trailing arms. While the paint is drying, I am going to swap out the fuel pump for a Walbro High flow pump while its off the car.
Jason

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r/tguy02
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Post by r/tguy02 » Wed Aug 28, 2013 2:12 pm

nice look :thumbup:
Justin
[02 R/T sold][00 Highline sold][04 r/t scrapped][95 NYG Sport coupe][01 r/t DD]
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2931823

ducktapetg
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Post by ducktapetg » Wed Aug 28, 2013 2:46 pm

Thanks. It should look much better by Sunday
Jason

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mopar2
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Post by mopar2 » Wed Aug 28, 2013 4:39 pm

Could you get the part #s for all those threaded rod and rod end parts? I see you went with speedway motors! I'm interested in doing the same to my 97!
2004 Dodge Neon SRT4 (New beast)
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ducktapetg
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Post by ducktapetg » Thu Aug 29, 2013 10:14 am

mopar2 wrote:Could you get the part #s for all those threaded rod and rod end parts? I see you went with speedway motors! I'm interested in doing the same to my 97!
Sure can :thumbup:

Just remember these have some slop as they all will. Also, depending on how my spacers come out, I might be able to make a set for you if you use the same setup as me (stock 12mm bolts). You could run a 1/2" bolt and this setup would work fine but I don't really want to drill out my knuckles and frame to clear those bolts. Also, I used a 17" long bar for more adjustment in the negative camber range. In my pictures, I have the rods set to the factory spacing so you can see it is still adjustable inward, but not that much.

(4) 91034158-17 ALUM TUBE FOR 5/8" HEIMS
(4) 91008001-STR FORGED STEEL 4-BAR END RH
(4) 91008002 FORGED STEEL 4-BAR END LH
(1) 1756046-LH STEEL JAM NUTS 5/8" 6/PACK
(1) 1756046-RH STEEL JAM NUTS 5/8" 6/PACK

Also, for those who haven't shopped at speedway, they are fantastic. I called up and asked a few questions to help me better understand the rods and their application and ensure that they will work on my car. They helped out huge. Their knowledge was great along with how willing they were to help. Also, shipping was fast. I ordered these at 8pm EST and they shipped them out by 9pm EST same day. I do plan on using them again for anything I need.
Jason

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blueneo03
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Post by blueneo03 » Thu Aug 29, 2013 4:51 pm

Damn that rear end is clean now! looks good but nice mouse pad BTW
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ducktapetg
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Post by ducktapetg » Wed Sep 04, 2013 4:24 pm

blueneo03 wrote:Damn that rear end is clean now! looks good but nice mouse pad BTW
Thanks :thumbup:

I did some more "work" this weekend. I put some black undercoat paint on. I also replaced my fuel pump for the high flow Walbro while the tank was dropped.

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Now I need opinions. I originally planned on buying my brake line from speedway however, the shipping costs almost as much as the line itself. Autozone has some Poly armor stuff and I wanted to know if it was any good.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/ ... 74%2C90083

Input would be appreciated as I want to get the brakes done this weekend.
Jason

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r/tguy02
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Post by r/tguy02 » Thu Sep 05, 2013 9:04 am

looks good, i still need to undercoat mine, it only has slight surface rust and i def dont want it to get worse
Justin
[02 R/T sold][00 Highline sold][04 r/t scrapped][95 NYG Sport coupe][01 r/t DD]
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2931823

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Post by mopar2 » Thu Sep 05, 2013 2:45 pm

I use the green passivated coated line from my local parts store. It holds up longer than plain galvanized brakeline. When it comes to 1gns though you can still get oem lines that are available through a recall part#.
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Post by ducktapetg » Thu Sep 05, 2013 3:56 pm

mopar2 wrote:I use the green passivated coated line from my local parts store. It holds up longer than plain galvanized brakeline. When it comes to 1gns though you can still get oem lines that are available through a recall part#.
I tried to get some of the lines from the dealership and they were giving me the "thats a recall part, we can't get that for you" crap. Plus, they are probably more expensive now than buying the tubing.
Jason

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Post by mopar2 » Sat Sep 07, 2013 6:14 pm

Yes more expensive but easier labor. I'm still going back and forth whether to do my own lines or recall lines. I really like the tube I get but hate the way my lines turn out lol.
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Post by ducktapetg » Sun Sep 08, 2013 5:29 pm

mopar2 wrote:Yes more expensive but easier labor. I'm still going back and forth whether to do my own lines or recall lines. I really like the tube I get but hate the way my lines turn out lol.
I took your advice and found a dealer that had them. I got the ABS lines for the 95 which are, of course, different than the 98 abs lines. First off, the proportioning valve is mounted on the master cylinder on the 95 ABS line whereas the 98 ABS line has the proportioning valve inline by the rear line. Long story short, I ended up adding the valve inline on the 95 prebent brake line. I also had to tweak the lines to the master cylinder. The line looks good though and fit much better than I could have done.

Onto the pics.

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Passenger side
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Driver Side
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After that horrible stuff was done, I finished up the rear end (finally). I installed the brake calipers, torqued everything down, and got it off the jack stands. I am going to do new brakes and pads but that will wait until next year when I register it.

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BBSs on the rear. I intend to lower the back a little more (1/2") but for now its fine.
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Need an alignment but, once again, that can wait.

Whats next:
Add stainless lines to front wheels
Coilovers on front as well while I'm there
Install rims up front
Bleed brakes (make sure they work too)
Put gas tank on
Add muffler and exhaust (although I like the mufflerless look too)
Celebrate and drink beer
Jason

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ducktapetg
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Post by ducktapetg » Sun Sep 15, 2013 1:03 pm

Welp, got some stuff done yesterday.

I installed the coilovers up front, and added the stainless brake lines to replace the rubber hoses. I then installed the ACR rims and they look great! I also put the tank back on (that was a bitch to do) and got it running. I have no muffler (cat. and header only) on so it sounds pretty bad ass.

I did find out while I was replacing the lines that my drivers side front wheel bearing is shot so I need to replace that or do a brake upgrade similar to this.

http://forums.neons.org/viewtopic.php?f=123&t=288835

I also need to get some spacers for up front because the tire hits the coilover and I am thinking of getting some Vitors bent trailing arms because the tires are close (not touching but close). I'm posting tire size for future reference. 98% sure size is 225/45ZR16

Pictures

Dead mouse cat toy haha
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For a reminder for me, I need to still bleed the brakes...

Thoughts?
Jason

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Post by occasional demons » Sun Sep 15, 2013 2:53 pm

Looking good. I need to replace my rear laterals eventually also. I have a bent one from a PO, but it aligned just fine.

Go with Shadow knuckles instead of neon knuckles. Many more benefits to them over neon parts. Bolt in wheel bearings, and better suspesion geometry to be the first, and you can also go with 11" rotors with them too.

The driver side Shadow half shaft is cheaper than a neon one also.

From my PL Casper:

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Post by ducktapetg » Tue Sep 17, 2013 1:13 pm

occasional demons wrote:Looking good. I need to replace my rear laterals eventually also. I have a bent one from a PO, but it aligned just fine.

Go with Shadow knuckles instead of neon knuckles. Many more benefits to them over neon parts. Bolt in wheel bearings, and better suspesion geometry to be the first, and you can also go with 11" rotors with them too.

The driver side Shadow half shaft is cheaper than a neon one also.
I like those benefits especially the bolt in wheel bearings. The question is (I haven't looked into it yet), what year knuckles would I need and where would I find them. I haven't seen any shadows in the yards near me but doesn't mean they aren't there. Thanks for the input. I never considered shadows.
Jason

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Post by ducktapetg » Thu Sep 19, 2013 10:26 am

Bill,

I have a couple questions regarding the knuckle swap. I read the info over on neons.org and must say the shadow knuckles are the way to go. I realize I will have to purchase a larger pinch bolt so thanks for that information.

I found a semi local yard with 91 dodge spirit knuckles with abs, would those knuckles work? I searched under 93 Dodge Shadow because they have ABS on car-part.com and seem to be interchangeable I just want some confirmation because I don't have much to go off of visually.

From my understanding for larger brakes, I will either have to find a caravan (years?) calipers/caliper mounts or a high performance k car calipers/caliper mounts to run the 11" brakes. This shouldn't be a big deal because caravans are in the yards around me.

I should be able to run 2gn MTX axles on both sides once I remove the seals from the knuckles correct? I'm trying to keep my ABS intact while also upgrading everything and 2gns are a lot easier to find around here.

Thanks for the help,
Jason
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Post by occasional demons » Thu Sep 19, 2013 11:10 am

Somewhere in that knuckle thread, they say what the beginning year is maybe '89 or '90, I don't exactly recall. I used either '92 or '94 model year knuckles. Didn't mark which car they came from. and they were the only pair I could find. The others might have gotten scrapped, on one of my dad's purges. :(

You can also use Daytona knuckles also. Any of the "K" based cars from that era. They are supposed to be the same part.

I know '87 won't work, I have a subframe/knuckles from an 87, and it is a whole different animal as far as the brake set up and a few other things.

Caravan rotors have the larger bolt pattern. There are ways to convert to the larger bolt pattern also.

But you need the 11" Shadow/Daytona rotors and caliper stand offs otherwise.

2gn axles will work, or at least the shadow driver side will as well. It is a cheaper option from the parts stores. (Less demand is my guess)
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Post by ducktapetg » Thu Sep 19, 2013 1:02 pm

Thanks, I think I am going to give them a shot. They have the same wheel bearing/hub assembly the shadow has and, according to Wikipedia, is "... a stretched variation of the Chrysler K platform."
Jason

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Post by Midnight_Rider » Thu Sep 19, 2013 10:25 pm

Off-topic but pretty much everything FWD from that era was related to the K-car. One exception I can think of was the original minivans (they were based on the Omni/Horizon, believe it or not).
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Post by ducktapetg » Sun Oct 27, 2013 12:54 pm

Little Update:

Installed oil pressure gauge
Installed muffler
Bleed brakes

Onto pics

Oil Pressure gauge. Needs a mount but it is done for now
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Exhaust. There was a mouse nest in the muffler too. These things got and went everywhere.
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Some junkyard goodies. AC delete panel with HVAC controls, half radiator delete panel, also scored some beige non-SRS leather seats for a 2gn along with a leather arm rest and a wood grained HVAC surround. All in all, it was a good junkyard day. I am not sure what I am going to do with the seats though. I just couldn't see them get trashed. (they will get cleaned)

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Future mods is diamond clear head lights. But for now, a parting shot.
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Jason

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