2GN.ORG 2GN.ORG
The best source for the Second Generation Neon - Period.
 
 Watched TopicsWatched Topics   FAQFAQ   RulesBoard Rules   SearchSearch   MemberlistMemberlist   UsergroupsUsergroups   LinksLinks  :: Register
 ProfileProfile   GarageGarage   1/4 Mile Table1/4 Mile Table   Log in to check your private messagesLog in to check your private messages   Log inLog in 

Overheating issue


 
Post new topic   Reply to topic    2GN.ORG Forum Index -> Engine
View previous topic :: View next topic  
Author Message
andymac0035
2GN Registrant


Age: 48
Joined: 12 May 2013
Posts: 16




Post: #1   PostPosted: Thu Jun 18, 2015 2:37 pm    Post subject: Overheating issue Reply with quote

2005 Dodge Neon SXT, bone-stock, 2.0, with air cond and ATX.

Short version:
Got hot yesterday, never has before.
Low on coolant, but no leaks.
Fans work, heater throws heat, t-stat seems good.
What the heck happened?

******************************************************

Detailed version:

Dash started dinging at me yesterday as I went to part at work, looked down, temp gauge is almost to the red. Parked, popped hood, no sign of leaks. Overflow tank was high, but not overflowing. Had the A/C on that day and had to sit in traffic for a bit too.

I'm in New Hampshire, it wasn't crazy hot or anything. The ride home was okay, but it was cool out, and no traffic (I work evenings).

Car is @ 137k miles. Roughly 2 years ago I had the timing belt and water pump done at the 105k mark. It was a Mom+Pop shop, I made sure I brought mopar coolant for them to use.

Never had issues with the cooling before, and have owned since 18k.

******************************************************

Did a search here last night and went out this morning to check the car over. No signs of leaks. Popped the cap and heard air and some gurgling. Last time I checked this I was greeted with seeing coolant in the hose instead of empty space.


Started and let run while I got some filtered water. Started adding and saw lots of bubbles working their way out..... kept on slowly adding with a jug and funnel. Eventually as it warmed (kept checking gauge) the bubbles got less, and then the coolant started to flow through the upper hose (so I assume thermostat is good). Eventually the level rose and started to ooze out the top and I put the cap on.

Gauge started to read higher than half (never does usually) so I shut it off and hoped for the best when I had to leave (our only car).

The drive to work (no A/C) went flawlessly, it never got past half and that included sitting in traffic, which I guess is good but.....

This leaves me wondering what I should do next?

I used the heater coming home last night and it threw really good heat, so I know the core isn't plugged.

Seeing flow in the upper hose has me thinking the thermostat is working as it should.

Only thing I kinda' wonder is- if the overflow tank has coolant in it, why didn't it flow back into the system overnight?

PS- search turned up a LOT of helpful threads on this subject, and I learned much, but need to learn some more.

Thanks,
-Andy
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message  
ducktapetg
2GN Registrant


Age: 29
Joined: 31 Oct 2011
Posts: 310
Location: New Hampshire



Post: #2   PostPosted: Thu Jun 18, 2015 5:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yesterday was really nice. I am surprised it didn't do this last week.

Maybe the cooling system needs to be burped. Heres a good how to.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zUpXgAJ1gjU

I am sure someone who knows more will chime in. Good luck!
_________________
Jason

2001 r/t
1998 r/t Project Log --> http://forum.2gn.org/viewtopic.php?t=66496
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message  
occasional demons
Mr One World
Moderator


Age: 51
Joined: 03 May 2007
Posts: 19779
Location: Ashland, Ohio

2001 Dodge Neon ES

Post: #3   PostPosted: Thu Jun 18, 2015 6:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The cap could be bad, as in the seal on the bottom spring loaded part. It may be letting air suck back in, instead of the coolant from the expansion tank. Or the hose to the expansion tank could have a leak, or the tank itself is letting air into the passage.

If it is pushing out, but not pulling it back, those are about the only options. I guess there could also be a hose/gasket that is holding pressure, but lets air in as the engine cools too.

Until you find out why it is not recovering coolant, you should be vigilant at checking it often when it is cold, and topping off at the filler neck/radiator cap.
_________________
Bill


2001 neon ES MTX with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon 2.4 EDZ MTX
Help support 2GN!
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message AIM Address
blueneo03
2GN Registrant


Age: 27
Joined: 02 Feb 2009
Posts: 1199
Location: Little Rock, AR

2005 Dodge Neon SXT

Post: #4   PostPosted: Fri Jun 19, 2015 4:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

^ i would check your cap.

hell thermostat and cap together are only like 15$

I just had the same thing happen, i drained my system and only got about 3qts out....new cap and thermostat, and refilled system, and no problems since.
_________________



Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon till it Dies" Club #61

2003 neon se crashed
1998 neon highline Sold
2005 neon sxt Sold
2014 Durango R/T Hemi (the wife's)
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message  
andymac0035
2GN Registrant


Age: 48
Joined: 12 May 2013
Posts: 16




Post: #5   PostPosted: Fri Jun 19, 2015 7:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks everyone. It's been doing good since I got the air out and topped it off, but I sure will be keeping an eye on it. I'll also be picking up a new cap.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message  
NickKo
2009 Gold Contributor


Age: 52
Joined: 11 Jun 2006
Posts: 2421
Location: IL./WI.border



Post: #6   PostPosted: Sat Jun 20, 2015 8:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you replace the thermostat - Which would be a good idea - Avoid the (so-called) 'Fail-Safe' thermostats, they are known to FAIL.... in the CLOSED position. Not good.


- Nick
_________________
-1998 2-dr SOHC MTX= 57mm TB; Maddog STS
-1999 4-dr DOHC ATX= UDP, Kirk Intake
-2000 Ply.LX with MTX = Maddog STS; CAI; 2.5 in. exhaust
-2001 Ddg. ES with ATX = UDP and Magnum header...Syked PCM 'pending'.

Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon till it Dies" Club #000009
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail MSN Messenger AIM Address Yahoo Messenger
jklnhyd
2GN Registrant


Age: 44
Joined: 11 Sep 2014
Posts: 32
Location: Pasadena, Ca



Post: #7   PostPosted: Sun Jun 21, 2015 4:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had a pinhole in my radiator last year. It would not drip, as the hole was so small and any water that would come out, would evaporate off the warm radiator. I had checked the radiator several times, only way I found it was to pull the radiator.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message  
andymac0035
2GN Registrant


Age: 48
Joined: 12 May 2013
Posts: 16




Post: #8   PostPosted: Mon Jun 22, 2015 10:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Still running like a champ and more importantly, keeping it's cool.

I've been keeping a close eye on it. Still no signs of any leaks. Overflow talk seems to be working as it should now. I've noticed it showing different levels (hot vs cold) since I got all that air out.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message  
andymac0035
2GN Registrant


Age: 48
Joined: 12 May 2013
Posts: 16




Post: #9   PostPosted: Tue Jun 30, 2015 5:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Update:

All is still well with the cooling system. No more losses of fluid since that first time. It was hot today and I used the A/C too.

However, there was another issue.....

Saturday, headed in for some O/T @ work, halfway there... ding!.... check engine light. cussing

Code is PO344 (camshaft sensor intermittent)
Let me tell you.... driving to work with a 2000-2200 rmp limit.... with an automatic.... is a royal pain.

This car eats those sensors on a regular basis.... at least they are cheap and I can change them myself. Usually I get at least a year out of one though, but I changed this one just last winter. Parts store I use closes @ 2....... it was 2:30...... an nobody (that would have one) is open again till Monday.

Fortunately, I was able to limp it along and borrow a car till I could fix it. It was a pretty bad failure though... and by that I mean usually I can shut off/re-start the car and have it run normal for a while till I can change it..... not this time....

So, I change it today, and instead of seeing the usual cresent worn into it like usual (remembered to index the cam last time) I am greeted with a crack in the plastic (and no cresent). When I unplugged the old sensor.... there was oil in the plug too.

I cleaned the plug-in with electrical solvent, and blew it out and let it dry... installed the new sensor, and all seems to be running well again.


You guys think that day I came close to overheating caused this? (I do)
Or are there other things I should be concerned about?
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message  
ducktapetg
2GN Registrant


Age: 29
Joined: 31 Oct 2011
Posts: 310
Location: New Hampshire



Post: #10   PostPosted: Tue Jun 30, 2015 5:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

From what I understand, changing any sensor, especially the crank/cam shaft sensors with anything but OEM is asking for trouble. They are anything but reliable. Some last a long time while others are bad out of the box. My guess is that the sensor was going bad anyway. The overheating might not have helped. What I would do is purchase an OEM sensor (yes they are way more expensive) and gasket and my guess is you should be good for a while.

As for the oil, my sensor has been leaking oil for a while now (bad gasket) but the car still runs great. Part of the reason I haven't replaced the gasket is I don't want my sensor to quit (that would be my luck). If it works, don't fix it.
_________________
Jason

2001 r/t
1998 r/t Project Log --> http://forum.2gn.org/viewtopic.php?t=66496
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message  
andymac0035
2GN Registrant


Age: 48
Joined: 12 May 2013
Posts: 16




Post: #11   PostPosted: Tue Jun 30, 2015 9:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Interesting on the OEM sensor thing. 2 years into owning it the OEM cam sensor went out. I have been using BOND's ("standard" I think is the brand name of the sensors they have)) stuff. Usually it's pretty good. The first one of those lasted 2 years also. then it eventually went down to 18 months, then this one I changed out last winter only lasted a year. But when I lost one at only 6 months...

At 3 years in (after the 1st cam sensor went) the (OEM) crank sensor went. This was replaced with a BOND's unit as well, and that one (knocks on wood) is still going fine to this day.

Back to the oil leak thing for a minute, to be clear, the o-ring on the bad cam sensor did not leak, the oil was going through the crack in the wall where the sensor gets it's reading, and coming out the plug itself (where the contacts are). I've changed it enough times now... so I know it's usually dry.... LOL
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message  
occasional demons
Mr One World
Moderator


Age: 51
Joined: 03 May 2007
Posts: 19779
Location: Ashland, Ohio

2001 Dodge Neon ES

Post: #12   PostPosted: Wed Jul 01, 2015 4:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

NGC cam target magnets work the sensor much harder than the 2002 older magnets. It is much more common for them to fail sooner than the pre NGC applications. I have well over 200,000 miles and 14 years on my original sensor in the '01.

But the oem ones generally live longer with the 2003 newer cars.
_________________
Bill


2001 neon ES MTX with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon 2.4 EDZ MTX
Help support 2GN!
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message AIM Address
andymac0035
2GN Registrant


Age: 48
Joined: 12 May 2013
Posts: 16




Post: #13   PostPosted: Wed Jul 01, 2015 2:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you both. That info on the cam magnets, that's makes a lot of sense (and I learned something new today).
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message  
andymac0035
2GN Registrant


Age: 48
Joined: 12 May 2013
Posts: 16




Post: #14   PostPosted: Wed Dec 02, 2015 10:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

A little update,

The car had been running so good and I kept forgetting to pick up a new radiator cap.... so of course the problem eventually returned. Checked it the next day and was greeted with an empty upper radiator hose again. This time I did change the cap, and at first I thought I was onto something, but not the case.

Somewhere in the middle of all this I got around to putting the new spark plugs in that I had already had kicking around. My father in law (he used to be a mechanic) was looking at the old plugs and noticed one of them had a rusty ring around it's electrode. He said I most likely had a hairline crack in the cylinder/gasket/head area somewhere and that is was likely the culprit.

This might also explain the gurgling I've been hearing in the dash. Sounds like it's right in front of me, so I'm wondering if it's gasses venting out the overflow bottle?

Then things settled down for a bit and it ran without coolant loss or getting hot.

Then.... this week things got really bad.

Tuesday it got hot...... now follow carefully.... this gets weird....

I blast the heat/fan from low to full blast, to keep from overheating...
10-20 seconds later..... gauge drops back to half...... runs normal the rest of the way to work.... even when I put fan back to low.

That night coming home..... same thing happens again.... EXCEPT... I lost heat!... and it blew cold.... not good!... then after a few more seconds.... it blows hot again... and all goes back to normal.

This is bad... and I know it...

Wednesday morning..... greeted with empty rad upper hose, but that's not the big news. When I cracked open the cap, the overflow bottle, which was apparently full to the top.... puked coolant.... popped it's fill cap.... yes, it came out the top.... it would appear the drain/down spout is plugged?

After draining the excess coolant out though the return tube and topping off things at the cap, I warmed it up. I did not have heat at first, but it came around/back. I left the filler/top on the over flow bottle ajar so that pressure could vent.

As of right now, it's running normal again, but at this point I'm unsure what's going on, but a compression leak into the water jacket and a plugged vent on the overflow bottle does seem like it could be causing all this. After all, the system is meant to flow liquid, not air/gasses.

The loss of heat in the heater makes me wonder about the heater core starting to plug, but if it was full of air/gas, I could see that doing the same symptoms yes?

Oh and as of right now, I do NOT have that billowing tell-tail white cloudy exhaust that would indicate burning off of coolant... and I got a first hand taste of would that would smell like when the coolant that spewed out the overflow bottle burned off.

EDIT
After reading the heater core replacement how-to.... I see now that the core is right in front of me (dash/wise) also. I had just assumed it was on the passenger side like so many other cars/trucks I've owned.

I can say however, no smells of anti-freeze are coming out of the vents at this time.... and hoping it stays that way. Shocked
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message  
Donkeypuncher
2GN Registrant


Age: 36
Joined: 12 Mar 2008
Posts: 2215
Location: Dallas, Tx

2002 Dodge Neon ES

Post: #15   PostPosted: Thu Dec 03, 2015 5:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The few times I've heard the gurgling sound is when people mix tap water with coolant concentrate instead of distilled water. The water eventually evaporates and pushes air through the overflow tank, the air bubbles are the gurgling sound.

I've also seen a coolant tank crack and at the bottom and suck air through causing the same sound and creating an air pocket in the cooling system.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message  
andymac0035
2GN Registrant


Age: 48
Joined: 12 May 2013
Posts: 16




Post: #16   PostPosted: Fri Dec 04, 2015 9:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you! That helps me a lot in understanding all of this.

Car has been doing fine (temp-wise) since I started leaving the fill-cap open on the overflow bottle. There was coolant in the upper radiator hose (for a change) when I checked it today. I started the car with the radiator cap off, and watched as bubbles worked their way up and out. When they stopped, I put the radiator cap back on. I guess this will be a new ritual for me for a while.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message  
Donkeypuncher
2GN Registrant


Age: 36
Joined: 12 Mar 2008
Posts: 2215
Location: Dallas, Tx

2002 Dodge Neon ES

Post: #17   PostPosted: Mon Dec 07, 2015 7:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

if you jack up the front passenger side of the car and run it with the radiator cap off, it should get a lot of the air out. there are some videos of it on YouTube I saw a while back.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message  
andymac0035
2GN Registrant


Age: 48
Joined: 12 May 2013
Posts: 16




Post: #18   PostPosted: Wed Dec 09, 2015 10:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you.

So, I did just that today, by driving that side up onto a curbing. Lots of air bubbled out. A friend had stopped by and he watched as I held the rpm's up which got even more to come out.

There must be some air in the radiator as well, because after the thermostat opened (I had it sitting parked), and after a while it started getting hot. Once I got it going down the road (read higher rpm's) it went back to normal and was fine for my drive into work.

I am thinking that basically the suspected compression leak will keep adding air every time I start it from cold, till it warms up and seals itself.

But we shall see, I will try the trick of raising that side of the car again tomorrow.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message  
andymac0035
2GN Registrant


Age: 48
Joined: 12 May 2013
Posts: 16




Post: #19   PostPosted: Thu Dec 10, 2015 9:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did the same procedure today. Lots of bubbles for the first few minutes, then it stops.

Also had to drain fluid out of the overflow bottle to fill the upper radiator hose. Car ran great to and from work though.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message  
NickKo
2009 Gold Contributor


Age: 52
Joined: 11 Jun 2006
Posts: 2421
Location: IL./WI.border



Post: #20   PostPosted: Sun Dec 20, 2015 4:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It sounds like there is an 'air bubble' in your cooling system.
It *may* have gotten in there from before you changed the radiator cap ??
If this is correct, then 'burping' your cooling system, may be the only thing that will be needed.

If not... Then I suppose it may be possible, that the head gasket got FUBR'ed from previous episodes with the radiator cap being 'marginal'. Sad
** Before condemning the head gasket, however, be sure to rule out other possibilities.

- Radiator ?? (Is it plugging up?)
- Any other leaks ?? (hoses, radiator; thermostat housing; heater hardlines, etc.)
- Thermostat ?? (You mentioned changing this before, so it is probably OK, but still...)


- Nick
_________________
-1998 2-dr SOHC MTX= 57mm TB; Maddog STS
-1999 4-dr DOHC ATX= UDP, Kirk Intake
-2000 Ply.LX with MTX = Maddog STS; CAI; 2.5 in. exhaust
-2001 Ddg. ES with ATX = UDP and Magnum header...Syked PCM 'pending'.

Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon till it Dies" Club #000009
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail MSN Messenger AIM Address Yahoo Messenger
andymac0035
2GN Registrant


Age: 48
Joined: 12 May 2013
Posts: 16




Post: #21   PostPosted: Mon Dec 28, 2015 10:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No leaks, t-stat works fine, so long as there is liquid (vs air) in the hose.

So a bit of an update.

It is basically a game of staying ahead of air bleeding into the system.

About a week ago I was losing this game, and the lines were getting really full of air, to the point that is was getting hard to get the t-stat to open, and also when this would happen the heater blew cold. In a moment of desperation I grabbed a rag and carefully cracked open the radiator cap (fully warmed engine). I did it VERY gradually, not releasing all the pressure at once. The upper hose was mostly empty, with just a low level down by the t-stat. I had just shut the car off. I got a LOT of air out when I released the pressure.

Then I re-started the car and watched even more air bubbles work their way out. Since then, the gurgling from the heater core area has been a lot less.

So what I've been doing (every day) for about a month now, is that I have to run the car (1st run of the day) with the radiator cap off (transferring coolant from overflow if needed) and getting as many air bubbles out before the coolant rises up to the filler neck.

The new thing after the major purge/burp I gave it, is that I must drive it, opening the t-stat and giving the coolant in the radiator good circulation afterwards (before I can shut it off). Once that is done, the car is good to go for the day.

There is always a steady stream of tiny bubbles out of the filler neck until the motor warms up. I still read this as a minor compression leak sealing itself as things get hot and expand.

I have decided to replace the car. It's been a great car for us, and I hate to do it, but it's time.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message  
prostho
DDS
2GN Registrant


Age: 50
Joined: 24 Mar 2010
Posts: 38
Location: Hollywood,FL

2005 Dodge Neon SXT

Post: #22   PostPosted: Thu Apr 14, 2016 5:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

2005 neon SXT, over heating. Flushed radiator,changed coolant,thermostat and radiator cap. All was good for a month. over heating again. Could it be that the rubber gasket on my over flow bottle is missing and letting air in through there?

Please help!
Prostho.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message  
blueneo03
2GN Registrant


Age: 27
Joined: 02 Feb 2009
Posts: 1199
Location: Little Rock, AR

2005 Dodge Neon SXT

Post: #23   PostPosted: Thu Apr 14, 2016 6:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did you bleed your system after you refilled? if there was an air bubble in there it could cause it to boil all away.
_________________



Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon till it Dies" Club #61

2003 neon se crashed
1998 neon highline Sold
2005 neon sxt Sold
2014 Durango R/T Hemi (the wife's)
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message  
occasional demons
Mr One World
Moderator


Age: 51
Joined: 03 May 2007
Posts: 19779
Location: Ashland, Ohio

2001 Dodge Neon ES

Post: #24   PostPosted: Thu Apr 14, 2016 8:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Overflow bottles do not have a seal on the lid. They are vented to the atmosphere, so the fluid can enter and exit back to the engine properly.
_________________
Bill


2001 neon ES MTX with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon 2.4 EDZ MTX
Help support 2GN!
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message AIM Address
blueneo03
2GN Registrant


Age: 27
Joined: 02 Feb 2009
Posts: 1199
Location: Little Rock, AR

2005 Dodge Neon SXT

Post: #25   PostPosted: Thu Nov 03, 2016 10:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So i have been having a similar issue again and i cant get it fixed completely.

My overflow bottle is topped off and about overflowing, i have bled, or so i think, the system multiple times now and have changed the cap and the thermostat. should i pull the overflow tank and check it for cracks?

Its pulling fluid as it expands but none back in as it cools..

Help!
_________________



Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon till it Dies" Club #61

2003 neon se crashed
1998 neon highline Sold
2005 neon sxt Sold
2014 Durango R/T Hemi (the wife's)
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message  
occasional demons
Mr One World
Moderator


Age: 51
Joined: 03 May 2007
Posts: 19779
Location: Ashland, Ohio

2001 Dodge Neon ES

Post: #26   PostPosted: Fri Nov 04, 2016 4:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Maybe inspect/replace the hose to the expansion tank.

Or use a different snug fitting hose into a bottle, let it warm up, then put the hose into a jar or bottle with the level marked, and the other end on the filler neck. Then see if it pulls coolant from the bottle.

If it doesn't, either the thermostat you bought is bad, or you have something else letting air suck into the cooling system, preventing it from creating a vacuum as it cools. Could be a loose hose clamp, bad seal, anything.

If it does, then the issue is with the original hose, or the expansion tank.

There is the possibility the filler neck has a small crack too.
_________________
Bill


2001 neon ES MTX with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon 2.4 EDZ MTX
Help support 2GN!
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message AIM Address
blueneo03
2GN Registrant


Age: 27
Joined: 02 Feb 2009
Posts: 1199
Location: Little Rock, AR

2005 Dodge Neon SXT

Post: #27   PostPosted: Fri Nov 04, 2016 8:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

okay i got the system puled back apart cleaned the tank, replaced the hose, checked the cap and t-stat, so far not overheating but ill see what the level is on monday.
_________________



Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon till it Dies" Club #61

2003 neon se crashed
1998 neon highline Sold
2005 neon sxt Sold
2014 Durango R/T Hemi (the wife's)
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message  
blueneo03
2GN Registrant


Age: 27
Joined: 02 Feb 2009
Posts: 1199
Location: Little Rock, AR

2005 Dodge Neon SXT

Post: #28   PostPosted: Tue Nov 08, 2016 6:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

alright so the housing to overflow hose replacement didnt fix the issue. i got a new rad cap and i have a hose going to a separate bottle for overflow.. hoping i can fix this
_________________



Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon till it Dies" Club #61

2003 neon se crashed
1998 neon highline Sold
2005 neon sxt Sold
2014 Durango R/T Hemi (the wife's)
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message  
Display posts from previous:   
Post new topic   Reply to topic    2GN.ORG Forum Index -> Engine All times are UTC - 8 Hours
Page 1 of 1

 
Jump to:  
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum


Powered by p h p B B © 2001, 2005 p h p B B Group
2GN.org Decals
MidwestNeons.com