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2.0 SOHC Block Specs/Out of Round


 
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alec660
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Age: 22
Joined: 13 May 2015
Posts: 3
Location: Portland



Post: #1   PostPosted: Fri Apr 29, 2016 4:34 pm    Post subject: 2.0 SOHC Block Specs/Out of Round Reply with quote

Hello. I have a 2004 sxt with piston slap that's starting to get worse I think and bug me. I've had another neon with 160k that wasnt this loud. I'm considering a rebuild.

I've been trying to find block specifications, like acceptable bore size range and out of round and taper but haven't had any luck. I'd either take the head off and measure or find a decent junkyard block to take to a machine shop to keep my car off the road for the least amount of time. Does anybody know the block specs or where to find it? And is it even worth checking; are the cylinders surely going to be too out of round requiring an overbore (not possibly solely bad wrist pins)?

I'm assuming it's either the wrist pins or the cylinder walls getting too worn and out of round or both.

And what happens if I just ignore it? Im not having other issues, it has 122k miles. Is there something that would signal it becoming serious like burning oil?

Thank you
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NickKo
2009 Gold Contributor


Age: 52
Joined: 11 Jun 2006
Posts: 2421
Location: IL./WI.border



Post: #2   PostPosted: Fri Apr 29, 2016 5:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here are the specs from my 2000 model year FSM. (I don't have any manuals handy newer than 2001, but I see no reason for this spec to change.)

Cyl. Bore:
87.4924 - 87.5076mm (3.4446 - 3.4452 in.)

Out-of-round max:
.051mm ( .002 in.)

Taper: (max)
.051mm ( .002 in.)

As far as visual inspection goes -- I have had the cylinder head off of a Neon engine at more than 150,000+ miles, and the cross-hatching on the cylinder walls, looked absolutely brand-new.
If you see that, I wouldn't even worry about out-of-round or taper.

Does the noise go away after warm-up ??
If so, it's probably just piston slap. It will run like that, for a long long time.
If the noise does not go away after warm up, then it might be a wrist pin issue. Neutral Even then, it will run for quite a while, before it finally gives up. (Depending upon local conditions, how hard you drive it, etc.)


- Nick
_________________
-1998 2-dr SOHC MTX= 57mm TB; Maddog STS
-1999 4-dr DOHC ATX= UDP, Kirk Intake
-2000 Ply.LX with MTX = Maddog STS; CAI; 2.5 in. exhaust
-2001 Ddg. ES with ATX = UDP and Magnum header...Syked PCM 'pending'.

Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon till it Dies" Club #000009
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alec660
n00b


Age: 22
Joined: 13 May 2015
Posts: 3
Location: Portland



Post: #3   PostPosted: Fri Apr 29, 2016 7:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you that makes a lot of sense, answered all my questions. I have a good idea of what to do/ expect now. So now I'm thinking it's the wrist pins then.

When it warms up it's still there but half as loud. It's loudest at ~1500rpm and you can't hear any noise past ~2200rpm. I was thinking the cylinders must have been excessively worn but that'd be really nice and save me time and money if they're still good, which it sounds like they very well may be. Alright now I'm gonna rebuild it when I can and hope the cylinders are good! Thank you.
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