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pre-rage control arm post


 
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Trepidation
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Age: 41
Joined: 04 Jun 2011
Posts: 5




Post: #1   PostPosted: Mon Aug 08, 2016 2:11 pm    Post subject: pre-rage control arm post Reply with quote

Hello,

Here's my story... I purchased a cheap 02 to drive because, my other car has "issues". This car ended up being not so bad, it is clean-ish and not too worn out for being 200,000 miles on the odometer.

The steering was weirded out because it had a bent wheel. I could tell they replaced the tie rod end thinking that would fix it, and they never got aligned. I was getting a clunk when steering in parking lots, I assumed it was either a destroyed motor mount or the control arm bushings.

Changing the oil I realized what it was, it looks like whatever retainer it uses to hold the ball joint has failed. So it has dropped down, and is being held in by the fact that it can only go down and not up. Oddly enough, I noticed the bent swaybar endlink before I noticed the balljoint.

I don't have the best of luck with removing control arms, and I am wondering if someone has any suggestions to start with the most aggressive tactic first (short of cutting it out). Is there an easy index mark to open up from the top? I was thinking of just hole sawing a 1.25" hole and start soaking the top of the nut with acetone/atf. I fear that the biggest threat though is the sleeve the bolt sits in.

I'm sitting at work, overthinking my plan. Because that's what people on the internet do.
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NickKo
2009 Gold Contributor


Age: 52
Joined: 11 Jun 2006
Posts: 2421
Location: IL./WI.border



Post: #2   PostPosted: Sun Aug 14, 2016 5:12 am    Post subject: Re: pre-rage control arm post Reply with quote

Trepidation wrote:
Hello,

Here's my story... I purchased a cheap 02 to drive because, my other car has "issues". This car ended up being not so bad, it is clean-ish and not too worn out for being 200,000 miles on the odometer.

The steering was weirded out because it had a bent wheel. I could tell they replaced the tie rod end thinking that would fix it, and they never got aligned. I was getting a clunk when steering in parking lots, I assumed it was either a destroyed motor mount or the control arm bushings.

Changing the oil I realized what it was, it looks like whatever retainer it uses to hold the ball joint has failed. So it has dropped down, and is being held in by the fact that it can only go down and not up. Oddly enough, I noticed the bent swaybar endlink before I noticed the balljoint.

I don't have the best of luck with removing control arms, and I am wondering if someone has any suggestions to start with the most aggressive tactic first (short of cutting it out). Is there an easy index mark to open up from the top? I was thinking of just hole sawing a 1.25" hole and start soaking the top of the nut with acetone/atf. I fear that the biggest threat though is the sleeve the bolt sits in.

I'm sitting at work, overthinking my plan. Because that's what people on the internet do.

You are right -- That is the 'biggest threat'.
But if you are prepared .... This 'issue' can be overcome.

On 2nd gen Neons, the floorboard should be 'indexed' for the location of the cage nut, that is welded inside the frame rail.



Here is a pic, that was originally posted by 'Chipdogg' either here on 2GN, or Neons.Org:



https://goo.gl/KCbOIp


I hope this helps. thumbup



- Nick
_________________
-1998 2-dr SOHC MTX= 57mm TB; Maddog STS
-1999 4-dr DOHC ATX= UDP, Kirk Intake
-2000 Ply.LX with MTX = Maddog STS; CAI; 2.5 in. exhaust
-2001 Ddg. ES with ATX = UDP and Magnum header...Syked PCM 'pending'.

Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon till it Dies" Club #000009
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Trepidation
n00b


Age: 41
Joined: 04 Jun 2011
Posts: 5




Post: #3   PostPosted: Wed Aug 17, 2016 12:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

did the driver's side last weekend, it was a real clockwork orange job.

Mostly because it didn't make balloon animals very well...

I made a 2" hole at the base of the dimple, it was perfectly placed. I wasn't able to get it to break loose so I cut the arm out. Getting the other end out was the toughie. I had to open up the hole so I could get a sawzall in. I had to nibble the track it sat in so I could get the bolt stub up through the hole.

I pushed everything back into place, and covered the surgical scars with a piece of sheet metal and secured it with self tapping screws.

Since the other side wasn't nearly as bad, I will keep treating it with penetrating oil until I can get it to break. That side will be more maintenance rather than "I need to fix this so I don't get killed driving to work".

The tension from the swaybar holding the control arm up was the only thing keeping that corner together. Everything looked original, except for the brakes. I'm going to give this thing some mild loving... right before the transmission blows up or the water pump shears off.

Once I get my 96 together though, I think there will be a fire sale at the chateau de Trepidation. I'm a bit tired of owning so many broken things.
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occasional demons
Mr One World
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Age: 51
Joined: 03 May 2007
Posts: 19780
Location: Ashland, Ohio

2001 Dodge Neon ES

Post: #4   PostPosted: Wed Aug 17, 2016 5:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

All my balloon animals escaped. Crying or Very sad

That bastard clown clown filled them with helium.
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2001 neon ES MTX with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon 2.4 EDZ MTX
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