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05 Neon SXT rough idle, hesitation during acceleration


 
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zidane5181
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Post: #1   PostPosted: Sat Sep 17, 2016 6:26 pm    Post subject: 05 Neon SXT rough idle, hesitation during acceleration Reply with quote

Hello everyone,

About two months ago, the car had a major meltdown. Lost all power, check engine light flashing, rough idle, etc. The problem at that time was two of the plug wires was completely bad. So I changed the coil, spark plugs, and plug wires. It ran good for about two weeks. Then it started having a rough idle mainly when stopped at a stop light. It started hesitating when accelerating and the check engine light came on. Ran the code and it was p0302. So, after reading up on the misfire, I changed the MAP sensor, Air/temp sensor, cam sensor, throttle position sensor, and the upstream O2 sensor. I had the injectors and idle air control valve checked and was told they are good. Every time I would change a sensor, the car would run fine for about a day then go back to doing what it was doing. So, I pulled the sparkplugs to have a look at them again and noticed the one for the number 2 cylinder looked a lot worse than the other ones. So I thought maybe it was because of the cheap spark plugs I bought. So, I changed them out with was NGK copper cores. The car ran good for almost two days until it started again. It was really bad this past week, it started cutting out while climbing hills and trying to drive on the interstate. So, today I thought that maybe the plug wires were bad when I got them. I know it is silly, but there is a chance something brand new would be bad. So, I went and bought better new plug wires and put them on. It still does the same thing, only this time the check engine light has not come on yet. I am at my wits end with this. I don't know what else to try. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

-Curtis
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zidane5181
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Post: #2   PostPosted: Mon Sep 19, 2016 10:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK, so now it has changed. Once the car warms up, it no longer stutters at stop lights even with the ac on. The only thing it does after it has warmed up is sometimes there is a hesitation taking off. Before it warms up though it constantly stutters while idling and sometimes stutters until I get to about 30mph. If it is not warmed up and I have it in gear the rpms drop down to almost 500. And when it is stuttering while driving I can see it on the tach.
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occasional demons
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Location: Ashland, Ohio

2001 Dodge Neon ES

Post: #3   PostPosted: Mon Sep 19, 2016 11:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

How many miles? Have you given it a compression test?

A cracked cam magnet might cause issues, but I think actually checking stuff like compression, wire harness condition, etc might be beter than changing parts and not getting anywhere.

Probably not a crank sensor issue, unless the tach is twitching with rapid movements when it happens. It probably wouldn't clear up with increased speed either.

You may have had a few things happening at once. Changing the sparkplugs, wires, etc might have helped, but there is some other underlying issue going on.

If the plug wires were cheap parts store brand wires, they can still give you headaches. I would only use Bosch Optilayer wires if going to a parts store. A speed shop would have better brands like Taylor, Accel, etc. They cost the same or less than the Mopar wires, which are also a good option, but still won't last as long as good performance wires.

Check ALL the grounds, especially the one near the driver headlight.
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2001 neon ES MTX with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon 2.4 EDZ MTX
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zidane5181
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Post: #4   PostPosted: Mon Sep 19, 2016 10:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It only has 70,000 miles on it. Wouldn't the wiring still be affected whether it was hot or cold? I think I may check out the magnet. How do you tell if the magnet is bad?

Thank you for your help!

-Curtis
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occasional demons
Mr One World
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Age: 51
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Location: Ashland, Ohio

2001 Dodge Neon ES

Post: #5   PostPosted: Tue Sep 20, 2016 6:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

When you remove the cam sensor, usually there are gray lines on the magnet. That is metallic particles that are stuck to it. They show exactly where the magnetic poles are on the magnet. If it is cracked, there may be a line going off at a different angle that radiating out from the center like the other lines.

If all the lines are straight, you can clean the magnet off, and see if that makes any difference.

If you replace the magnet, be sure you get one for a 2003 to 2005 neon. 2002 and older will not work to well.


Chances are you would be getting a P0340 or similar code, if the magnet was bad enough. but nothing is guaranteed.

Expansion and contraction from heat can affect how flexible the wires are, or how well a connector makes contact, which can be very difficult to pinpoint, if that happened to be the issue.

Even at 70,000 miles, the valves could get carbon'ed up, and possibly affect compression. In my '01, the exhaust valves and ports were so bad the the valves weren't seating well enough to hold compressed air in the cylinders.

The issue was bad valve guide seals, letting oil run down, and bake onto the valves, and the port walls.

A compression and leakdown test may not turn anything up, but at least you will know the issue is not from the bottom end, or valve train.

Quote:
I changed the MAP sensor, Air/temp sensor, cam sensor, throttle position sensor, and the upstream O2 sensor


Even at parts store prices, you probably spent a chunk of change and still haven't totally cured it.

FWIW, parts store cam sensors are known poop. They usually last maybe 30,000 miles and that is optimistic. Hopefully you saved your factory MAP sensor, cam sensor, and TPS sensors, because they are all probably still in good shape.

The cam sensor, may be debateable, as 2003 to 2005 magnets have many more magnetic poles, and do tend to wear out the sensors more so than the 2002 older.

You can use cam sensors from 2002 - older, just not the target magnet.

SOHC sensors are a pain to remove/replace compared to DOHC, so using JY units may be too much hassle, unless the parts are already stripped out of the way.

But as you may or may not know, OEM sensors are ~$85 each. But by the time you go through a few parts store units, you will have more money in it than that, and a butt load of time spent changing them, even if they have a lifetime warranty.

I elude to the Junk Yard as a source, because now Fiat is having the cam sensors made in China, and still charging $85 for them.

So ones from a used car may be the best bet. Only time will tell.
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2001 neon ES MTX with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon 2.4 EDZ MTX
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zidane5181
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Post: #6   PostPosted: Tue Sep 20, 2016 10:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So, today I had to run a few errands before heading to work tonight. Everything was going normal (well for this car at least). Then the check engine light came on with p0300 multiple misfires. I will check all the wiring as soon as I can and all the other stuff suggested as well.
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zidane5181
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Post: #7   PostPosted: Sun Sep 25, 2016 12:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fixed it. The coil pack I bought brand new (although a cheap one) was bad. Got a BWD and the car runs like new.
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