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Leaving around 4 should roll in around 7. Have to get in and set up my vendor spot though. Hopefully catch up with you guys tomorrow! Look for the guy driving r/c jeeps outside building T. By the way I think we have an extra hotel room if someone is in dire need. Somehow ended up booked in two diffe...

I'll be in my usual vendor spot outside building T. If anyone is interested I can drag some stock 02 SXT seats and door panels with me.

No tires this year, not worth the effort anymore. I'll be leaving tomorrow afternoon.

It has an 03+ front clip

Biggest thing is the way you drive. Smooth throttle input will help you greatly. If you have an ATX I would think you are going to struggle to get much better mileage unless you're 100% highway driving. Also, a slightly taller wheel/tire combo will lower your final gear ratio. It makes your speedome...

Excited to see you guys again this year. Sadly the neon will be in the shop getting the seams repainted (looking pretty nasty). Good ole PA winters and all. I have some 02 sxt door panels if anyone wants me to drag them along otherwise they stay home. Also I will likely be driving my truck from Pitt...

Try it in another car. If nothing else tie the yellow and red together and attach those two to the positive terminal and the black to ground on a battery to see if the controls react. I suspect the head unit is fried though. It sounds like you have a short somewhere if you're building that much heat...

my 02 also sits about 1/4 just a tick above.

It goes behind the steering wheel and the inside rotates with the wheel while the outside stays stationary. It's what allows the airbag and cruise buttons to work on the rotating part of the wheel without twisting up wiring harnesses. http://www.hobbyexpressinc.com/lilschmied/clockspring.jpg The cru...

Other than pulling the steering wheel, which can be daunting to some, it's usually quite easy to add cruise. Likely most of the wiring is already there so you only need to put in the clock spring, switches, run throttle cables and mount the servo/vacuum assembly. If you are curious look for a vacant...

Without having a setup in front of me it's hard to say anything more on the subject. I suspect the issue is the lack of resistance in the circuit. You could try a much larger capacitor in the circuit but I suspect it's more an issue with lack of discharging. The other possibility I suspect is the le...

So the blinker doesn't work at all lights on or off with all LED's and a stock relay?

One more question does the ricer-flash still occur with a stock relay and an all LED setup?

Sadly the relay I have is nowhere near what I'm looking at in these pictures. Anyone have one lying around?

Also when you turn on the turn signals does the indicator on the dash light up and stay solid?

Well in theory yes when you replace EVERY bulb with an LED you could be eliminating a constant ground. LED's are not the same as a ground if they are off(not enough voltage to flow current) where a bulb is just a coil of wire and will make the circuit complete(in this case grounded) instead of open....

Unplug a headlight and see if the flashers work. If they do they the voltage is probably the issue. If someone has a schematic of the relay it might be possible to change part of the circuit to make it work again.

It could be that with your headlights on the overall voltage of your system drops enough that the total current in your LED circuits is also down. Thus making the relay not switch.

Sounds like you probably have a cylinder not firing could be a bunch of things I'd start with looking for a bad plug/wire or even the cps. the codes will help though

I'm all packed and ready to head out. Anyone leaving from the philly/nj area on Friday morning?

I don't think double clutching would help if the clutch was bad (not disengaging). In theory it would have issues in other gears, especially getting into 1st, if it were worn out. You shouldn't have to adjust the pedal unless you are compensating for an existing problem, or installing a new clutch....

I'll be there as a vendor couldn't justify spending 50 bucks on a parking spot. I'll be floating between my grandstand space and right outside building T. I'll be sure to swing by the tent when I get a chance. My car will be parked with all the tires

Because the entire cluster loses power I'm curious as to how exactly you hooked everything up. I looks like you're tripping a relay off and on quickly when you turn off the lights. It could have something to do with the current the fogs are pulling.

occasional demons wrote:Maybe this helps?



viewtopic.php?t=53846&highlight=

if you look at that picture there's a little tab that sticks out of the center and hits part of the clock spring to toggle them off.

Makes me wonder what's going loco in my SXT. I drove it fine home from work yesterday, got out and locked it, no problem. I started working on my R/T, about an hour or so later i had a friend get something out of the car, and it was still fine, i even remember hearing the horn when he hit the lock ...

Did you drain and replace all the fluid when the hose came off? I would try flushing the system and putting fresh coolant in. If it's still frothy after that I'd worry about a leak/head gasket.

It sounds like the starter doesn't have enough juice to turn over. Make sure the battery terminals are clean and tight. You can get a brush for them cheap at walmart/napa wherever you like, it's not a bad investment. If you've got a dead short to ground it'll kill your battery pretty quick. If it wa...

you said you replaced the sway bar endlinks what about the middle two bushings?

I'm with OB on this one it does sound like an axle problem. Usually a failing CV will make a lot of noise while turning. However, it could be a combination of a bad mount which in turn made an axle fail. Even a mount being loose and letting the motor come out of alignment will make a horrible racket.

It only makes noise under acceleration? Did you check for codes? Sounds like it may be down a cylinder for some reason. Also what kind of noise? a hum? a clunk? any extra info would help

anything powered directly from the battery and not the ignition would most likely be shot and it wouldn't necessarily blow a fuse. Just reverse polarity into the electronics...You could have melted a wire or two. Start checking for battery power in the fuse box. Also I'd check the circuit breakers.

Check the accessory wire going into it it sounds like it's getting the base power from the battery but not from the ignition. Don't have my book on me but yellow is typically battery and red is accessory on an aftermarket harness. On a factory harness pin 1 should be battery and pin 2 should be acce...