2GN.ORG

.040" over is nothing to be concerned with

lol people still use that term. I should have trademarked it in '98 or '99 when I did the first one and called it that.

Sobota wedding that day, no can do again

I'm more interested in the Charger at this point. I'm just not a big fan of the Challenger body. And the damn things are everywhere here.

There's a set in an '02 at a local yard. Can get fronts and rears for a touch over $50. They're in decent shape, might go pick them up on Friday.

Nice score. I've been casually looking for that package to add to my collection of stuff. Haven't had an ebay search going for a while though, I remember about once a year or so and never find one of course.

Nothing to worry about. Slide it onto the fork (if there are clips left), slip the bearing over the input shaft and snap the clip in the fork over the pivot ball. Done.

Tempting but then I'd need to get rid of a couple of NYGs. Wish it was a different color.

They ARE an assembly aid only. Some tabs are plastic, some are thin sheet metal. The fork keeps the bearing riding on the fingers on the pressure plate, not the tabs. There is no real "return" for the bearing by the tabs. The pressure plate fingers are spring loaded and will push the bearing back. B...

He doesn't have testing where he is. But, 160F is too cold, you really need to use something closer to OEM. I understand the heat there and wanting to keep it cool but even if you could get it to stay down around 160 with a radiator that could keep up, the engine will run better hotter.

03SXTNeon wrote:Honestly I wasn't sure which one was better for quick shifts

Not the T850.

Just pull all of the plugs, not that it makes a big difference. Crank it over with the gas pedal to the floor and keep cranking until the gauge stops rising. You'll usually see it stop rising by the time it spins over 10 revolutions. Dry should be in the range noted above with stock pistons and stoc...

more chinese shit

And the really bad part is that you don't HAVE to remove cams to put rockers in place. There is a tried and true method of prying down the valve retainer enough to get the rocker to slip in.

This whole being 50 thing is no big deal. It's just another day of the week.

Thanks!

I'm sure manyof them went into the trash over the years.

Ok I got the story on these today. A friend of mine worked for Chrysler when these first came out. He said when the first neon was built they had a big party at the plant. The news crews were there and higher up, all thatgood stuff. He said they were handing these plaques out during this celebratio...

Oh yeah, it's real. And rare. Still have ours here somewhere. Yes, those are little rubber "nibs" and not holes. Just out of curiosity, what was the price? It's been a number of years since I've seen one sell on eBay, the last one went for a little over $100 It's about 7" x 3", not license plate siz...

Union leaders are a lot like politicians - they're in the game to enrich themselves first.

There is an actual Chrysler part number for it. I just cut them out of thin aluminum flat stock. Even an aluminum can would work.

"Back in the day", the service manuals said that you had to remove the head to get the cam out. We quickly proved that to be wrong by tipping engine/trans.

Telling you to cut the clips off was a pretty poor suggestion. It's too bad someone that is really supposed to be knowledgeable is telling people things like that. The clips are mainly there to aid in assembly, they keep the bearing in the correct position on the fork! Yes, many clutches do "rattle"...

caustic neon wrote:GOD THAT LOOKS TIGHT AS HELL TO WORK IN!

It is. Getting ready to swap out long blocks in Sheree's '03 and NOT looking forward to it. At 188,000 it's tired and blows a cloud at one every cold start up.

gtxtreme19 wrote:Glad to see this build might actually come to fruition. I do have one question though, why are you scrapping the megasquirt?

There are other systems that perform better, are easier to work with and are much more stable. The AEM is certainly one of them.

A coarse thread wood screw or sheet rock screw can also be run into the remains of the sensor and then use it to pull it out. Dropping the pan is a pain in the ass compared to that but might be the only other way.

bought the wrong color engine paint, E58s were blue like it was originally.

For reference, I bought Jason Steele's '01 white ACR 4 years ago. Probably undervalued slightly at $4000, I couldn't pass it up. 75,000 miles or something like that. AEM intake, sway bars upgraded, lowered, better pads all around, full urethane bushing kit, original struts in perfect working order, ...

How'd you snag that for $400? I need one like that too. Or two. Pretty nice score.

Well, that does suck. Guess I won't see that parked at your work again. Bummer.

95srtswap wrote:

SPL Neon wrote:No 2000 model year tune?

No but if you swap the IAC then I have confirmed that I can upgrade a 2000 ecu to a 01 cal and everything runs correctly

2000 changed to an '01 ACR or R/T as well? No '01 or '02 in junkyards here right now but plenty of 2000s.