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I used to know the engineer on the lamp and I can confirm he made a mid-cycle material change on the gasket (Said the old one could take a set and cause leaks if the lamp ever shifted a bit or if the lamp was removed and replaced). One other thing to check for is a break in the body sealer used on t...

I think the Honda (?) headlamps, Sunfire taillamps, and front windshield spoiler thingie really pull the whole look together.

wtf?!

looks too narrow to the body. May look cool if you could add a wide strip of LEDs and make them the CHMSL.

Feedback For: Caraudioholic24
You in the transaction(seller or buyer):Seller
Feedback Rating: A+
Comments on the transaction: show me da money, here is da stuff. Just how every deal should be.

common failures, common rusty areas, when to do timing belt, fluid changes, etc.

or is the HT section supposed to cover this?

Name - Nate Partlan
Location - metro Detroit, MI
Contact info - specifically for this car, prefer you use neon4sale@hotmail.com.
Feedback - few good purchases and sales here, Perfect at eBay (80+)
Paypal:natepartlan(at)hotmail(dot)com

61,085 miles
Sold locally for $6200.

Feedback For:kitirin
You in the transaction:seller
Feedback Rating:A

good buyer

Swordfish2Cowboy wrote:That's kinda expensive.

Fuzzyneon wrote:bit pricey

backup data or frame of reference? I'm seriously asking.

I've had a hard time cobbling up prices from junkyards, this forum and srtforums.

i paid $600 for a hood, front bumper, and rear bumper. none in "showroom" condition. no insert. no mesh. $80 for headlights (i drive a 2000) $45 for fogs ~$725, but that included my rear bumper as well. so i'd say it may be high. so add in the mesh, insert, and washer bottle and you think $800-850 ...

natepartlan wrote:I'm talkin' hood (with insert), fascia (with fogs and grill mesh), and washer bottle (with pump). Hood and fascia are not showroom perfect.

oh and headlamps too, forgot about those.

I'm talkin' hood (with insert), fascia (with fogs and grill mesh), and washer bottle (with pump). Hood and fascia are not showroom perfect.

I have a black 2002 R/T with about 60,000+ miles on it. No mods, LCA bushings have been replaced, 60k maintenance has not been done yet, Mobil 1 its whole life and I am the original owner (car has been driven by GF the past 4 years, we are both non-smokers), there's one rock chip on the driver rear ...

Topic came up during a Q&A today. Essentially, if they have no lien on the title (which they won't), they have no way to police any future transfers or enforce any consequences.

So anybody want a Wrangler?

So Chrysler is offering these 25k vehicle vouchers to go with their buyout packages. There's really no car I want now, so like many others I assume, I was thinking of getting a Wrangler and immediately reselling it to get some cash. Chrysler came out with this little stipulation a couple days after ...

I'm just concerned that its no worse than the car I have in hand. What can I say? I'm getting older and these buzzy, peaky pocket rocket cars are getting tiresome. One of the top 10 happiest days of my life was the day I sold that Eclipse GSX. :P Had the whole day off today to vote for 10 minutes (n...

Thanks for the informative testimonial. What can you say about road/engine noise in around town driving and on highway at 65-80 mph? That's really my biggest concern about the Fit. I figure all of its other shortcomings can be handled in due time with aftermarket parts. This month's C&D shows it as ...

I'm starting to think about getting rid of the 60k mile 2k2 R/T in favor of a 2009 Honda Fit. Looking at old and new Car & Driver reviews, the Neon has it over the Fit in HP & braking distance. The Fit has it over the Neon in terms of newness, Honda perceived reliability (?), and slight bump in fuel...

Thanks guys, guess I'm still ok for a few more miles. I thought I might've needed new shocks, but all the things I noticed went away with new outer tie rods and LCA bushings. Mine are over 212 000km (less the few months I ran with coilovers installed) and still ride fine. My old car I got 185 000km ...

It was a long time ago, but I think I averaged 39 MPG on a 4ish hour trip in my '98 R/T. I was drafting a semi most of the way. I never did a similar trip in my 2k2, but I'd expect the same if I dorve the same. Except for that trip, I tend to just drive 78-80 and let MPG be damned.

I just needed one more post to be able to sell stuff. I thought you guys may have wanted to know that. :-p

Have a 2k2 R/T that I bought new, drove awhile, then gave to my GF. But I'm the "car guy" so I'm the one on here even though I don't drive the car anymore.

I say leave the way they are if strapped for cash; otherwise I'd vote for new wheels. Try photoshopping a set of 10-18 spoke wheels. I think the wheels you have are a little too chunky in the middle portion.

I vote flush

I vote clear due to your silver color; looks good in your pic.

I see prices anywhere from $200-$350 in the classifieds here. Seems like too big of a spread to me.

I'm pretty sure shocks can go bad long before the 'corner press test' tells me anything, so how can I tell if the shocks have given their all? I don't drive the car so much anymore; it's my GF's DD and currently has ~57-60k miles. Its a 2k2 R/T.

So I was working hard today on my LCA bushing swap to Energy Suspension parts. Driver side went fine, got it buttoned up as the snow started today. Unfortunately, the rear vertical bolt on the pass side is slightly rusted to the retainer in the frame and now the damn thing is spinning. What kind of ...

If I stick to a name brand like Moog, I'm not finding anything much cheaper than Rock Auto (or Amazon with free super saver shipping). Anyone have any other hook-ups for good prices on inner and outer R/T tie rods? Also, just how bad are the ebay ones that sell for half or a quarter of the price? I ...

no one knows? or no one cares?

those look nice also, but the spring rate of 392F-224R just seems to be too high for what I want (which seems to be an issue for me with any available coilover setup). Remember, this is my GF's DD car and I don't want to give her a setup that's too harsh or where she has to think too much about poth...

so you're tellin me, that DCX put LARGER diameter rotors on the back, and smaller ones on the front for the 4wheel disc neons??? kinda stupid if you ask me... But overall diameter doesn't directly correlate to pad clamping area, does it (also called swept area I think)? Remember the rear discs also...