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I think i figured it out. The screw holding the top motor mount to the car frame was loose! No idea how that happened. I'm pretty sure i had tightened it very well.

3 weeks ago I heard a single loud knock while accelerating from a stop. This happened a couple of random times. Now for the past 2 weeks, I hear a rattle whenever I accelerate. Like there's something lose flopping around somewhere. This MAY be related but i'm not sure...I replaced my top engine moun...

hey guys..got a p0551 code today. is this the part i need to replace? also...how quickly do i need to get this replaced? I'm not experiencing any issues yet.

My left rear blinker stopped working and my fog lights turn on whenever they damn well please. Do i need to replace my mfs?
Where can I find one? How much?

btw... i drive a 2000

TheRandom1 wrote:Have you had your alignment checked?

just got an alignment this morning. they had to make some pretty big adjustments. going to hit up the highway later to see if that helps.

You probably shouldn't be doing 70 over the grooved surfaces anyways. My cars have all done it too, nothing wrong with your car, it's just a construction zone telling you to slow the heck down. these aren't construction zones. there are parts of the highway where the surface is grooved concrete. Ju...

my car feels REALLY unstable though. Not really sure what the deal is.

anyone else have this problem? Some parts of the highway are grooved concrete. Whenever i drive through these sections...my car wobbles. The faster i'm going, the more the car wobbles. It's kind of scary @ 70 mph. I drove my dad's card not too long ago and didn't experience any issues. What's up w/ ...

anyone know the part # for a clockspring on a 2000 Neon without cruise control? i did a little searching and only found info on an SRT.

my former roomie just moved up there this summer. annd yeah...the dude's from southside tuc. got his number from a coworker.

i didn't know about those either. they look pretty sweet. do they have some for the neon?

pretty cool

i recommend Mothers Plastic Polish over this stuff. I've had better results with it. Keeps my headlights looking brand spanking new. Just buff it on well and then wipe off with a damp cloth. I've seen it at Checkers and Walmart for $8.00 to $10.00. Comes in a red bottle and has a picture of a headli...

oooo chrysler cloud. sounds green

but i think xenon,krypton or radon would be more logical.

/thread? pleasE? haha

What about... -timing belt tensioner -cam and crank seals -upper torque strut -PS/AC idler pully -radiator -heater pipes -heater hoses -thermostat -heater core -thermostat housing -PS belt -AC belt -battery -wheel bearings i'll just ask him how much to rebuild my entire car :-P :lol: no tensioner.....

tucson, AZ

I had a mechanic replace the following: -Water pump -Timing belt -ATX lines (transmission to radiator hoses) -Serpentine belt -positive battery cable I gave him my car @ 8:00am. I drove it away at 3:30pm. The guy did an awesome job parts & labor.... $280!! :rockon: this guy is going on my speed dial

I received the reservoir tank this morning and just got finished installing it. The bottom of the old tank was falling apart! I tapped it and pieces would crumble off. SOO...I can finally drive around. I still have a problem though. I refilled on coolant noticed it was still leaking before i even tu...

i thought my car was going to literally start on fire. the hissing kept getting louder and louder after i turned my car off . and yes. lots of smoke.

SO i finally found a reservoir tank on ebay. Hopefully i'll get it by saturday. I really hope the leaking tank was the only problem

all the coolant has already flushed itself out thanks to this ordeal. i'm worried about what could have caused this problem. Pressure build up in the reservoir? i don't know much about cooling systems. is there anyway a faulty water pump could cause this? i've been looking around for a reservoir tan...

i still haven't been able to locate one online :( my plan is to replace the reservoir, thermostat & radiator cap. I'm afraid of some other problem to have caused this issue. any ideas guys? i don't understand how this happened. here are some pics of the damage. http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn1...

i was driving to the gym 2day and all of a sudden i started hearing this gargling/bubbly noise from under the hood & the car starting beeping. the car then started to smoke and i pulled over ASAP. i waited a bit as I watched all the coolant pour out from underneath. I popped the hood and the first t...

bump for my last 2 questions ...

given the correct length, will any battery cable with eye rings on both ends do? Also, I noticed that there are a couple of what appear to be grounding wires coming from the starter cable. Are those going to be an issue?

nope...that's the resonator box alright. heavy piece of junk aint it? this isn't an issue as everyone with a CAI has to remove it. You've pretty much got yourself a ghetto short ram setup there.

awesome! that's precisely what i needed to know about the plastic cover. I wasn't quite sure if it had some sort of special connection. Now... given the correct length, will any battery cable with eye rings on both ends do? Also, I noticed that there are a couple of what appear to be grounding wires...

Or just buy a commercially made cable to replace the battery to starter cable. That is the route I would take. Just cover the end with dielectric grease, and get some HD shrink tubing to slide over the lug. Once heated it will use the grease to seal the crimp. this is precisely what I was aiming to...

I HAD THIS SAME EXACT PROBLEM! i would be driving and then the car would just die. The problem was that the wire from the positive terminal to the PDC was bad (corrosion and broken wire filaments). I simply replaced the wire and terminal, had the battery recharged, and I was set. $10 fix. Hopefully ...

actually, I already replaced the wire to the PDC a few months ago. Here's what it all looks like. The black cable goes to the PDC. The red goes down to the starter. If you look at the red cable, the portion that is exposed looks corroded and some of the filaments are broken. I'm convinced that this ...

YES...that's what i was trying to link you guys to



the wire does look a bit corroded near the connection. Can't i just use the cable pictured above instead of having to fork out 90+ on the harness?