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Verizon doesn't apply the employer discounts to the data portion of bills any longer (and I don't think they have for at least 2 yrs). I still say dry loop DSL was the way to go but good luck to you (at least better luck than you have with the USPS and eBay sellers).

Under each of the hinges there will be 2 bolts connecting it to the hood. Loosen the bottom bolt on one side and the top on the other and then reposition the hood. You don't want to loosen all of them or the hood will shift front to back as well. You also don't want to loosen them too much, you want...

All the car audio installers I know dislike capacitors and say people should just upgrade "the big 3" to do it right.

You could pop a SRT-4 Alternator on there since they have a higher output than stock neon ones.

Ok so you've replaced the parts those codes point to but they remain. Did you check the electrical connections, make sure the plugs were clean and free of corrosion, and lastly check the wires for breaks due to things like fraying, irregular bending, eaten by squirrels, etc?

C1DoG wrote:Why?

New Jersey, I think that's all I need to know.

Welcome! BTW did you notice if the timing belt had been replaced when you were in there doing the tensioner? Timing belt and water pump are recommended to be done at around your cars mileage.

It's a starter kill. The yellow wire is the starter wire which is cut. Black is ground. Pink/black is +12V constant. Light blue wire it the ignition wire.

You could remove it and rejoin the starter wire at the steering column together and be ok.

You can try to find what you need at advanceautoparts.com using an online coupon code with in store pickup.
TRT30 = 30% off
TRT41 = $40 off $100+

Honestly this shop sounds like they enjoy throwing parts at an issue to hope it goes away. I'd find another shop. If the car is jacked up off the ground and you grasp the tire with both hands do you have any play in it horizontally or vertically? http://youtu.be/scFbb43fwqk?t=5m57s I've seen cars wi...

I wonder if you could just use a relay in the door and wire it into the power mirror adjustment control so that if R or L isn't selected the up and down would extend and retract the mirrors. I might have to pick up a spare switch at the JY tomorrow to play with.

Thanks Gramps

its a friend of mine....family owns a dealership so he gets the wrecks dirt cheap....most are flipped or hit really hard hes parted out at least 30 so far I wonder how much he'd want for one with a running engine/trans so I could swap it into my SXT. Seriously in the next few months I'd be interest...

Some of the auto parts stores here have a press and will press bearings in/out for a small fee. Might be worth checking around with them if you don't own one.

a bad CV joint would have noise during all movement I believe. Does the noise only happen or happen more when you're turning one way vs another? If so it's most likely a wheel bearing.

Didn't take too long to get different wheels, tires and headlights. Looks good.

btw what's a good way to see if the radiator will need replacing soon? i wanted to buy one and get it out of the way, but like yall recommend, if it can hold up a little longer, i can put that money elsewhere Does the radiator leak? Does the transmission lines going into the bottom of the radiator ...

Yeah if the car has 95k and it hasn't had the timing belt/tensioner/water pump replaced yet do that... very important.

if you have an advance auto parts near you search for online coupon codes. I got 40% off of a >$100 purchase this weekend and scored a battery for like $72 after core exchange. You could use coupon codes to get things like the battery, plugs, wires, etc for well under your budget.

Get dry loop DSL from a reseller like dslextreme.com

"Dry loop" means there's no phone on the line, no dial tone, nada.

Other than that everything I can think of is going to take hole drilling.

Have you checked the fluid level and made sure the belt is still on the pump and spinning with the engine running?

wish ya were closer Good luck on the sale though

Is your gas cap on tight? When was the last time you got gas?

in theory you could undo the plastic plug from one of the doors just make sure you isolate the wires from each other so they don't make inadvertent contact and do things like ground the power lock/power mirror wires and blow fuses.

eh I wouldn't go pulling one from my daily drivers door to use it in the MFS personally. You basically are just going to take a donor vehicle disassemble the wiring harness plastics using something like a mini screw driver and then use the new plastic parts in place of your old melted plastic part a...

Dimmer switch connector? Do you mean the 20 Pin multifunction switch connector? That connector is the same as the ones that go to the doors so you can go to a junk yard with a pocket screw driver and pull one of the plugs to the doors apart or just cut it off and disassembly it at home and use the n...

Maybe try to sell it on the forum? If you were closer to me and the body was in good shape I'd pay certainly more than scrap value.

I bet your MFS is on its way out or the 24 pin connector has melted a bit. Here's a pin out I've got saved. 1--White/Tan--Center brake power 2--Green--Left turn arrow on cluster 3--Red/White--Run/Acc hot power to flasher from fuse 1 (turn signals?) 4--Green/Red--Right turn signal output 5--Brown/Red...

hum... my wife did just deliver our daughter today

I've had really good luck with finding good doors on car-part.com I had a rust issue at the lower seam on my RF door and picked up a color matching one in great condition for $100 locally because of that site. It was easier just to swap it than do the repair work :lol: We've got a LR gray door local...

I want to see the condition of the plugs