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That's how it was for me with this one, Jeff. Came along at just the right time and I couldn't pass it up; it was exactly the Neon I always wanted. It would make a wonderful weekend car, but I'm getting too old (or soft?) to really enjoy it as a DD anymore. Besides, I get my manny-tranny kicks with ...

Thank you, I try to keep her looking decent.
I'm in PA, 19464.

Photos.... http://i336.photobucket.com/albums/n343/matlowenstein/Junk/Car%20Sales%202013/IMG_20131101_102414_zps04093084.jpg http://i336.photobucket.com/albums/n343/matlowenstein/Junk/Car%20Sales%202013/IMG_20131101_102427_zps20fd647a.jpg The little specs just above the filler are small spots of sur...

It's sitting outside my window right now at work, but there's a monsoon rolling through...so...pictures will need to wait. And I'm not saying it needs a timing belt tensioner (that was replaced with the timing belt and water pump), I'm saying I think it needs an accessory belt tensioner. But you're ...

Yeah, that's kind important, huh, LOL.
The timing belt, water pump, and tensioner (newer style) were done at 102K.

After almost 4 years, I'm about ready to sell my '02 ACR. I always wanted one and she came up for sale just as I needed to replace my '02 SXT. Now it's time for something a bit more comfortable. I get my manny-tranny kicks from a '74 Beetle now, so I no longer really need a fun DD. Rough specs: Ston...

Anybody? Might be the same for a 2000 or 2001.

Can someone with a 2002 FSM tell me what color the wires should be and the pinout on the PCM for the IAT wire?

I've got a 2003 FSM, but colors and locations are not the same.

The IAT--as I understand it--replaced the battery temp sensor and can wreak the same kind of havok.

I'm thinking I probably have a short in the wiring, but wanted to know if anyone else had some thoughts.

I've tracked down my problems to a malfunction around the IAT. I have replaced the IAT...and it was fine for a couple of weeks, but now it's sending the cluster into seizures (and turns off my radio) again. Disconnecting the IAT remedies the situation, but it leaves a CEL and a battery light. So how...

Okay, we're a couple of weeks in...
It was the IAT. The code went away within 2 or 3 starts and has stayed off. Go figure.

I drove around all day yesterday and this morning and it seems like the problem is the IAT...as I initially suspected way back when. Investment: $70 battery $95 alternator $70 troubleshooting ------- $235 When it really seems to be a $10 part. Why I didn't replace the IAT when the battery (which it ...

If you have a battery charger, you can apply 12V to the unit without using a wiring harness. If applying 12V directly to power doesn't make it work, then there's something inside the unit that has fried itself.

The code is back again, the seizures also.
I'm going to clean the battery terminals (though they don't look bad), replace the IAT, and battery blanket.

Then if I still have problems, I'm going to burn this PITA to the ground.

So the code came back and I decided to just take it to my local, trusted mechanic because I'm out of ideas. He found a harness running from the alternator being crushed against a bracket, potentially grounding through the insulation. So he notched the bracket, giving the harness a little breathing r...

Popping back in to say that I started getting the light again last week. And the cluster seizures.
I parked it for the weekend and it hasn't thrown a code since.

I replaced the battery and it was fine for about 6 months. Then, the code started reappearing. I replaced the alternator and have had no CELs since.

So, since I had the battery checked and plugged the IATS back in, no light. Of course.

I'll replace the battery soon anyway.

Thanks for the all help, Bill.

It's supposed to have 710CCAs. I mean honestly, it probably does need a battery. I've thought that it needed one ever since I bought the car in April '10. It's always been slow cranking and constantly producing corrosion on the positive terminal. But it seems like every time I change the oil or clea...

Okay, so I had the battery tested at Advance Auto. They didn't need it disconnected it or anything and the battery "failed". A 60-second test. I asked what caused it to fail and the guy couldn't tell me. He did give me the printout which said that the battery was only measuring at 517 CCAs, was hold...

I think I understand:

Remove the regulation from the PCM (by disconnecting that plug) and stick a meter on the battery to see what the alternator is doing while the engine is running. If it charges without input from the PCM, then the alt is bad. If it it doesn't, my problem is elsewhere.

I suck at reading electrical diagrams...so bear with me....but it looks like the alternator (generator) feeds power back through a fuseable link to the starter and then the battery. I'm guessing that's the large-gauge cable that comes off the alternator. With that disconnected, I should see NOTHING ...

OD- I understand not to remove the heavy (relatively) gauge lead to the battery, rather I should disconnect the small wiring harness plug. I'll look for (key off) continuity in both wires. Since I've gone to the trouble of getting in there, are there more tests I can run to see if the alternator is ...

So I checked it again on my drive home yesterday and my drive in this morning. On a warm engine, I'm getting ~14.1V at the battery...which still sounds high. Definitely not the consistent 14.4 I was getting, but higher than the 13.6 I thought I was supposed to have.
Thoughts?

Okay, so my readings of 14.6V were on warm - hot engines. Definitely out of open loop. I checked the battery voltage before starting the car--cold--at lunch, and it was 12.4V. I started the car and watched the meter peg out at 13.85V and settle in at right about 13.60V with the IAT unplugged. Grante...

I would just unplug the IAT sensor until you get a replacement. The volts should stay at a flat 13.5 give or take a little. Actually, that sounds like a good way to prove it out: if the voltage stays at 14.4V with the IAT sensor unplugged, then the problem is not the IAT. I'll report back after lun...

Thanks, Guys. Also, as I was driving to work this morning, the cluster flickered ALL of the warning lights. It did that to me once before. Last time, all the lights flickered and simultaneously, the tach and speedo needles sagged. This time, it was just a warning light flicker. I did see the how-to ...

2002 ACR @ 97K miles The battery light has come on intermittently over the last 2 or 3 weeks. Never when it's above 60 degrees outside, though. It could happen 7 minutes into a drive or 15 minutes into a drive...or not at all if the weather is warm. As a result, I am inclined to say it's some kind o...

sidepipe87 wrote:Haha he's from Pittsburgh is he not?

Greensburg/Latrobe, actually.