2GN.ORG

For my oil feed line, I used an -AN to hardline compresson adapter from Jegs.

This is what I used: http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/s ... 5_-1_10019

It's super easy to install and works great.

wow the megalogviewer ve analizer works amazing. my fuel is now fully tuned thanks turbodudey Sure thing. The MLV is definitly a sweet program. i just need to wire my iac motor up and have it start right. ill do it eventually What kind of starting issued are you having? Until I got the cranking PW ...

I haven't fired it up yet, but it's getting close. Very close. I did crank the engine over a bit without the fuel injector clips plugged in, just to get some oil pumped around. I probably could have fired it up tonight, but I'm being silly and modifying my throttle body so I can use a braided stainl...

Link:

http://www.ideasandsolutions.biz/MSGraph/

Dyno tuning is not necessary, no. For ultimate optimization, tuning on a dyno would be very helpful, but if you know what you're doing, you can get a good tune on the street. Tuning fuel using the MegaLogView is very easy. Just go for a drive and log all your data, then go back and feed it into the ...

03blackrt wrote:

Very clean build-up.

Thanks!

Clean is how we like it. Very clean...




T - 24 hours and counting...

The table generator in MegaTune works well for a starting point.

Tuning with MegaLogView is very easy too, not to mention it's a lot of fun. Even if a "base map" did exist I wouldn't use it. Tuning is just way to much fun!

i kno the boost and a/f wideband are important what are some other fairly important guages? Fuel pressure, and oil pressure are good gauges to have. An EGT gauge can be handy, but it's not a necessity. u see the ic and turbomani set up, to the right is a long ic pipe (hot or cold?) That's the hotsi...

Yeah I'm using it now with a ghetto bracket, I've wanted a new rail for a while, I just wasn't sure what would bolt up. Is that whole rail -6 (for the feed and return)? The ID of the rail is about 1/2". Both ends are tapped for 1/4 NPT threads. The fittings I used were -6 AN, yes. Routing the rad h...

Kevin_GP wrote:what fuel rail is that and did you get it to bolt up to the lonewolf (stock fuel rail is not even close, I need to get a aftermarket one).

I saw some pics of your car a while ago and it looked like you had the stock fuel rail on the lonewolf manifold. Was that just my imagination?

Here ya go:

http://megasquirt.sourceforge.net/extra ... Hybrid.htm

The change happen during the 2000 model year. So if you have an early '00 it will have the 47psi reg, and if you have a late '00 it will have a 58psi reg.

I don't know what month the change occured, so if your build date is mid '00 you'll have to do some investigating to find out which reg it has.

Ive been training on new flight systems and avionics for the new planes were flying so... forgive me if it doesnt sink in the first time... What kind of planes are you flying? I'm guessing you're in the airforce, right? I'm curious toowhat kind of avionics you're flying with? I design avionics and ...

I saw the post before. :) I thought about it, but I don't really havea good answer for you. Part of the problem my be your driving. :lol: If you're just sitting there at idle, and then romp the throttle all the way to the floor, then yeah, it's gonna bog. Even if it was tuned well, you just can't ge...

These are the mods for the v3.0 board: http://megasquirt.sourceforge.net/extra/setup-neon.html All the software setup is described there. (inverted spark, dwell controll, etc..) Since you've got the v3.57 board the hardware mods will be a bit different. There is already one (1) VB921 driver on the v...

pin 20 on the PCM connector C1

The lower torque strut is essentially a two-force member, that is loaded mostly in compression. There will be some tension on it from time to time, but the compressive forces are much more significant. Due to the geometry of that bracket, the bolt would probably sheer before the bracket would break....

on the front bulkhead, just outboard of the radiator on the driver's side of the car

I'd like to go, but we'll have to see how my work/school schedule works out.

I probably wouldn't be able to make it up there before about 9:00 pm on a friday night. They run till 10:00 though right?

OB wrote:Whats the deal on the crank trigger; what is needed to get MS to work with the 2.0?

The link for the NGC firmware is in the FAQ at the top of the page.

As far as base maps go... you're probably better off just using the table generator in MT. You're going to have to tune it either way...

Q4 and Q20 are just designations for transistors. This is the layout of the V3.0 pcb: http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/v3components.gif The center of the right side is where these components are located. The component designations are labled on the silk screen as well. So, per the MegaManual, you desol...

From what I understand, you need the MS2 chip to do it on our IACs. I just left mine up to the stock computer. Works fine. MS1 will can control 2-wire PWM solenoids, such as the ones on 2gn Neons; however, it can't control a 4-wire stepper motor. Since your car has a 2-wire PWM solenoid, you're goo...

kc2002acr wrote:hurry hurry hurry hurry hurry hurry hurry hurry hurry hurry hurry up up up up up up up up up up


:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D

I'm working on it! Sheesh!

I'll have it running this weekend. Maybe... hopefull... yeah.

ngc or not doesnt really matter, its the same motor, and fuel should be the same, i just cant get it started on the first try haha What do your cranking pulse widths look like? Are you controlling your IAC with MS as well? In order to get a "stock" start, you pretty much have to use the IAC. It is ...

Yep. There are 4 bolts holding the bell housing to the block. Once those are out, it should slide right off.

It would probably be a good idea to remove the slave cylinder, just so it doesn't get it the way. The starter motor and lower dust cover need to come off as well...

My tranny was dificult to remove as well. I think the trick is to support the engine/tranny in such a way that you can pull perfectly straight on the tranny. It should just slide right out. The input shaft likes to bind up in the clutch if you don't slide it out perfectly straight though. It might t...

The pics: -Before http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n2/j_dudeck/Pics001.jpg -After http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n2/j_dudeck/Pics002.jpg -View looking normal to the bottom http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n2/j_dudeck/Pics003.jpg -The modified a/c bracket http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n2...

Hey ya'll. I tried fitting up my Canton pan this evening, and it looked exactly the same as SGT BRAD's did. I did a little grinding on the a/c compressor bracket, and was easily able to achieve enough clearance for the pan. It fits with no problems at all now. I'll post up the pictures of what I did...

I would say about $5,000 is all I want to put into this. $5k :shock: If you're gonna spend that much, you could completely rebuild everything and upgrade to forged internals and a big turbo. A budget build would probably run you around $1500 or so. With $5k to spend you could pretty much go all out...

I agree with everything except the fact that the threaded hole that's pushing on the oilpan in the picture, while part of the a/c bracket, is actually the lower torque strut mount!!! i'm not too keen to "grind away" on it. did you have to grind yours away to mount your pan as well? i'm tempted just...