2GN.ORG

like i said im not familliar with teh ZEX/MSD setup so i assumed the wires he was talking about were the outputs from the units

your gonna need that 5th prong on the window switch to open and close the butterflies

correct, these wires are to "activate" the relays at the times they are programed to well actually there is 4 one is an output and the other is the actual ground line the switches neet to work (not sure about the zex because im not using it, i have the system activated by a switch because i was shor...

ok assuming you have everything listed below and you know exactly what to do and how to depressurize the fuel system ill run you though the wiring because you used a completely different and more complex system i did what you need: Mag intake manifold Mag intake gasket (part #4648623AB ) an intake t...

im sure its just me, what is it your trying to do i can tell you w/o the pic and what do the yellow and blue wires do according to the manuals

if its a mag intake i just threw mine on last week, VERY happy with it. can be a pain tho

i cant see the pic, it sounds like your hooking up a magnum intake?

you might need the 5 prong depending what you want to do

they are wired separate but eventually the merge, dont know where.. the drives fog light gets a straight line and the passengers cuts across the front right behind the bumper but in front of the radiator laying on top of the road shield or whatever that plastic POS is called

it is possible and and intriguing concept, but i always thought the high intensity mode i guess you can call it was for the hazards.

"alpines have good lows but the infinitys have good highs" if ive had a dollar for every time ive heard a customer/ person say that. glad to see infinity hasnt changed, the "c" alpins havent changed at all, it was the "s" i was reffering to i may seem a little bias but i have reason to be and anyone...

there are some focal coax's :lol: :shock: theres no friction intended nineball if you read my post i stated i mistook the model for the Type-R coaxis (SPR-17c)for the new seperate models (SPR-17s). my gripe was the SPR-17s sounded worse than the SPR-17ls they replaced. that is all, and if he was goi...

why are they crap? no need to give out false info because you have another set for sale. they will be a dramatic improvement over the stock speakers. spr-17c are a good speaker, i had them intially in my neon not amped just running off the head unit (pioneer deh-m3900p or sumthin)and they were good...

yea your gonna need spacers tho, fronts are 6.5 and rears are 6x9

HOWEVER the "C" typer-R's are crap compared to the older "LS" which i have and are selling for 150 for the set

http://forum.2gn.org/viewtopic.php?t=32640

Fuzzyneon wrote:circuit city FTW jk best buy circuit city should have it or any other place that sells and installs stereos should too

circuit's parts cost a little more and they dont stock the metra version of the CR02RB

yea BBY only sells viper, Codes are great alarms IMO i used to buy nothing but codes back in the day but i used to HATE how large thier modules were, they were easier to install than the Vipers too

slaw63087 wrote:well i decided im gonna get a remote start as well and if im gonna do the alarm , i might as well get a system that does both, any suggestions

Viper or i hear Compustar is popular up north, we carry the Compustar-Pro line

Swordfish2Cowboy wrote:Yeah but how many R/Ts were made compared to the SXTs/SEs? Supply and demand. Not everyone wants to mod their cars.

This would make sence if the R/T tranny was more expensive than the SE/SXT but its not.... its like 200-500 dollars cheaper

Bestbuy heres the part numbers

CR02RB (Reverse Chrysler 03+ herness)
CR01B (Chrysler 8x-03 Herness)
40CR20 (Chrysler Reverse Antenna Adapter 03+)

Viper 791xv Proximity sensor Tilt Sensor Telematics System Battery Backup Siren Voice Module Custom Window Module No problems... and hey that $500 viper had a lifetime warrenty ;-) i bet you they didnt tell you that whent they sold it to you because its the same one i have. Plus ive been installing ...

new question whats the most aggressive cam i can buy that dosent require changing springs and retainers

im running 225/40-ZR18 on mine with a 18x8 rim with a 4" deep dish on stock suspension. needed a 1/8in spacer and ALOT of hammering and there your go, you can barely clear a sheet of paper between the tire and various suspension parts... no rubbing no problems after 3years... perfect alignment still...

i know that but shit just for 3 parts the markup is so high its more than a all new tranny thats built already with labor costs stacked on top of the parts to make it.

it almost seems backwards

go ported, whats the recomended ported box, .5cu/ft for a 12" is WAY too small for any 12", even so youll get more output and longer life out of a slot port

Andpto wrote:well i thought you had to have a sentry key already programmed in order to program a new one

your correct to program a new key you need the other 2 keys. but hes trying to program the remote not the key

well thats the thing. Its doing JUST that. Ill drive with them on for about 30 minnutes or so, with the system on and then ill park it for about 2 or so hours while im in a movie. Ill go out to the car, and it refuses to start, and it just started doing this when i installed the neons a few days ag...

Fantastic explanation. However, there is one thing i do not agree with. The price range of the subs you stated. You said good quality subs are 200$+per sub. You can get a great kicker sub for $140-170$. Right now i have 2 10in kicker cvr subs and i got em for 160$ apiece. They sound great, and they...

5017848AB - 3.94 R/T gears - $584msrp 5017853AA - Output shaft - $1260msrp In order to swap to the 3.94 gears, you also need to change the outputshaft in the trani, thats why its easier to buy a trani used and complete. damn easier and cheaper, the R/T tranny is $1450 MSRP and the reg sxt tranny is...

i want to put the final drive gearset from a R/T in my sxt

im pretty sure i need the final gear and the differential

disconnect the - battery terminal the wires coming from the door go into a molex plug right before they go into the car its inside the rubber insulation, peel back the rubber and unclip the plug from the frame. find an empty spot and drill a hole there and feed your wire though feed the wire up the ...

when the car is on your system and your neons DONT run off the battery they run off the alternator. check the voltage (at the battery) when the car is on it should be above 13.4v @ 2k RPM if not take these steps while the car is on disconnect the battery and check the voltage again at the terminals ...

To get at the screws I went out and bought an offset screwdriver. For some reason they are expensive for what they are, but they work great for the one right by the glass. http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41CBKPWCHXL._SL500_AA280_.jpg or you can goto home depot and buy a makita 90* drill bit f...

how much were the kappas BTW i might be able to get you som Focal's that are MUCH better