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Swap it with the horn relay and see if your horn stops working and the pump works.

Does your car have an ATX or MTX? If you did an MTX swap recently then you need to re connect the torque converter lockup solenoid to get rid of the code. If you have an ATX then you need to replace the solenoid.

What are you driving? What year and model?

Once the computer learns you're driving style it will feel like power is being taken away, but if you already have an MTX transmission then get the PCM that has advanced fuel and spark curves. If you're planning on using the Magnum intake too then I'd recommend getting the wiring harness and PCM. Th...

Going to? Hurt performance? Shouldn't much, but if you already have an MTX take the PCM out of the car with the mag head. It has advanced spark and fuel curves, and if you really want to, grab the wiring harness and intake too, that way it will pretty much be an R/T.

I say that if one side is gone the other isn't too far behind. I always replace things like that in pairs, or fours. Like struts, if one blows they're all getting replaced. It may be overkill but my father or I have never had a problem and this is what we've always done.

Flywheel bolts to the crank, pressure plate is bolted to flywheel. The bolt heads are on the back of the flywheel.

The idle sounds fine, I'm not sure how the 3 spd unlocks the converter though. Last time you changed the air filter? Check that first Check o2 sensors, if your foot is on the floor when you take off normally to get it moving that sounds to me as if the air fuel ratio is off if the air filter is good.

No no no no, throttle body. What most people do is pull the vacuum line off of the brake booster then put it into the engine that way.

Torque converter isn't unlocking. Or the idle is set too low. What do you mean 5rpms and 7.5 rpms? Is that hundred or thousand?

Your car is going to heat up when its stopped after driving because there isn't anything moving the water, or moving air over the radiator. It's just basking in its own heat.

Ball joints, sway bar (stabilizer bar) bushings, could be tie rod end, check everything to see what moves.

Just bend it back so that it engages the wheel.

Everybody on RCU is a total dumbass, you guys should take a look when people try to get into complicated stuff over there. PS the RC SUPERCRGER KITS DO NOT WORK YOU JUST BLOW MORE FUEL THROUGH THE ENGINE You're pretty much pushing fresh air/fuel mix directly through the engine and wasting it. Since...

Check clutch adjustment? Is the engine twisting too much from worn engine mount bushings?

Take the top of your dash out. Removing the top of the dash will allow you to easily clean all parts of it. Hopefully there isn't Armour-All on it. If there is, remove it. I have found the Mr. Clean Magic pads excellent for removing Armour-All. Wash it thoroughly with soap/water solution. Resist th...

HOLY SHIT! Thats a damned big hamster!

This may sound weird but when I drive I get a lot of glare on my windshield from my dash. As in when I look out of the windshield I see a refection of my dash in it. Is there anything to get rid of this?

He wants to know if the people running the haun kit have NGC comps and what type of tranny.

If you get the good ones from Lawson that are sealed with epoxy... I've never had trouble with them as long as they're sealed and wrapped with something to keep it together. But I don't use them unless I'm in a bind/ can't get my soldering iron to it. Ideally you want to strip the wire and solder it...

Wow should have went to a parts store, ~$13 for a new one.

Thats cool, but you can also use a razor blade to carefully take the sheath away but make sure you heatshrink it and use silicone to seal it. There are also some sort of special connector that will do it for you too, forgot what its called though.

Use an air impact or find somebody who has one to take the nut off for you, then if it doesn't come off use a pinion/ pulley puller of some sort (auto stores usually rent them out) then put an old belt (doesn't have to be right one, just use to protect the pulley) around the pulley and use a torque ...

Autox with a bent frame? Why stress it any more then you have to?

SlvrACR wrote:Who needs defrost??

What the hell? Explanation please.

Is the belt still there? I had that happen on my sisters Caravan once.

No thats what the voltage regulator prevents.

...but stiffer springs with stock ride height? Doesn't matter how much or how little suspension travel you have, if the springs are a much higher rate than the valving in the dampers are setup for, you'll eventually blow 'em out. The spring overwhelms the shock, pushes it faster than the valving ca...

Compression too. But the computer is the biggest thing.

I meant stiffer than stock. My way of thinking was that if the Eibach sway kit is too much for a DD then find a moderately stiffer spring and throw a R/T rear sway in. I know lowering will blow them, but stiffer springs with stock ride height? But if thats the case what about the Eibach front/rear s...