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So the Eibach kit on Modern is too stiff? What about just plain stiffer springs without any drop? I'm running on stock suspension and don't really care about ride quality, I just want to get rid of the roll without dropping my car. Any lower than now and the front will drag on every bump.

Oh I also have factory aluminum wheels, thats probably why.

Stock Neon 85amps
PT Cruiser 100+

Yes its a direct swap. While you're at it you might as well upgrade your grounds.

Mine look like the second one.

If it comes back you could try to reset your ECU, that should reset fuel trims and everything.

If you're doing a full system I believe.

rpm at 70?

Most OBDII cars have it right above the drivers feet. I spent some money on a decent one made by Actron that can read/erase codes, show freeze frame data and came with a program for your PC to upgrade the reader and can tell you more specific information about the code.

Sounds like either the engine flush fouled your O2 Sensor to me.

Johnnymopar and someone else replaced the radio lights by soldering new ones in.

... and the new hot cashier isnt all that attractive. But that associate has been locked in his room playing WoW and hasn't had real human interaction in months and his pants won't stop getting tight.... yea.. I keep those guys off of my team. They work in computers and Wireless and Media. Yah. Me ...

Has to be the clutch. If the it's still revving but not going anywhere, you need to replace the clutch and surface the flywheel.

ATX or MTX?

If you're not running a catalytic converter, this moves the downstream O2 sensor out of the exhaust stream so that it reads less exhaust/emissions so that the car won't throw a check engine light.

Axle, clutch, syncro in the tranny, could be any of those.

Also loose bushings in the rack. I guess you just grab the tie rod close to the rack and yank in all directions, all around, in out, any movement at all without any resistance is bad, in/out the other wheel should move as well. That's all I know about how to check a rack and I'm not sure of that eit...

Try the local dealer and see if they'll let you rent/barrow a factory service manual.

Whens the last time you changed fluid and filter for the tranny? Sounds like the torque converter to me.

dangerdavex2 wrote:Your underage

That made my day right there.

First off, stop jacking his thread...
Check tie rod ends, rack, ball joints... anything that moves.

Actually it's probably easier to use an old lugnut to "press" the new stud in with some washers behind the nut. Impact makes everything easier. If he doesn't have air tools, he needs to use the wheel to press it in the rest of the way after tapping it partially with a hammer. But then he runs the r...

Actually it's probably easier to use an old lugnut to "press" the new stud in with some washers behind the nut. Impact makes everything easier.

fearingdark wrote:cuz i pulled out some miscellaneous wiring (looks like there was an alarm or something)

If you haven't already, put the wiring back in! If it was an alarm you need to trace every wire for it and take it out, or put it back in. It probably had an immobility feature.

If it varies with speed it has to be the wheel bearing, speed doesn't affect anything else in the rear like that.

Did you take the wiring out? If so put it back in and see if that works.

p1687,1686,1681=Manufacturer Control Auxiliary inputs auxiliary outputs

p0462- fuel level sensor a circuit low input

If you're talking about the front end: Tie rod end? Rack?

MFS? If it's only when you turn it on with the switch on the MFS, it could be crapping out on you.

You'd need some special one I believe I saw a guy testing one on a GM on TV once, he had the car hooked up to a laptop somehow. They're into the thousands of volts.

I'd at least go to a junkyard and get a new plastic protector for it, just me being a perfectionist though.