2GN.ORG

infinite baffle. in a nutshell you seal off the trunk from the rest of the car and use the entire trunk as an enclosure, but there really is no enclosure.

http://home.comcast.net/~infinitelybaffled/

if the subs can handle it seal off the trunk and run them IB.

maybe, mine sounded louder with sub facing the interior, but it is just shy of the opening of the trunk. Fact is, facing the sub causes massive cancelation, facing them back helps eliminate it that doesn't really make sense. you say it is louder when facing forward but facing back causes less cance...

Ok got it. I just have one more question about the wires. After i've matched all the wires from my radio harness to their respective locations I'm left with 2 wires I have no idea or use for. 1 is this orange wire and the other is purple/yellow stripe. Do I need these or can I just cap them off. Th...

99 times out of 100 it will not be as loud and will sound worse. If you take the time/effort to seal off the front of the box it might be louder with the seats down but that is a lot of work. I would just buy/make some grills. 99% is exaggerated to say the least. the only way for the OP to find out...

just take 10 mins and flip the box. generally, and i said GENERALLY, subs "sound" better in a trunk when facing rear and as close as possible to the rear of the trunk. i am not going to get all technical but it has to do with the sound waves. facing backwards is not always best though. i know from p...

dont suppose you could hide an additional speaker in the rear dash pad between the other 2 eh? lot of room to hack back there. you want the center channel as far forward (within reason) as you can get it. when i take off my dash to fix a light next week i'll see what, if any, room is in the middle....

could be one is blown the. grab a dmm and measure the coil.

heydockyle wrote:Not every head unit has a sub control.

I agree with what you are saying. But it isn't 100% practical in every situation.

that's true, but once the gain is properly set it should be left alone. if the hu doesn't have sub control then you are s.o.l.

heydockyle wrote:Okay but for everyday use it will work to turn the sub up or down.

no, that is what the headunit sub control is for. the gain should be set properly to maximize output without clipping and then left alone.

You don't have to max out the amp regardless of what sub. I say get the sub I linked and put the gain down. That way if you want it a little louder one day you have the ability to turn it up. The gain controls your power on your amp. It isn't running at full power always. wrong. the gain does not c...

sounds like cheap leds. i have never had an led burn out on me in over 7 years of using them.

occasional demons wrote:Check the wire polarity.

we have a winner.

funny this should be brought up... i am brainstorming ideas on how to mount a center channel speaker myself. as it is i am only using 7 of the 8 channels on my new ms-8 so i may as well use them all.

my mirror hates me even more

same ting happens on my 05 and the drain is clear. usually only happens on the really hot days. give it some time w/o running and it will go back to normal.

follow the walk-thru on this board. it explains everything you need to do, in detail, with pics. takes about an hour the first time you do it

you have some serious electrical issues to find and resolve, ignition too it sounds. if the key is turned off and removed from the vehicle, any vehicle, it should not stay running no matter what is connected. your problems are greater than just audio. i would not connect anything electrical to the c...

how exactly did you keep the truck running without the key in it? that sounds like another problem that is not audio related. the whine is caused by a bad ground somewhere in the hu or the amp. i guess it could be caused by the antenna but that is easy to check - unplug it and see what happens. next...

measure your stocks

i have never seen an aftermarket cd changer that will work with a factory radio.

hey man http://www.crutchfield.com is your best bet. they know their car radios and they offer most install stuff for free x2. no one can touch their customer service. period. if you have nave never ordered from them before you can use the code p3xht-5r681-r1hix to get $20 off an order of $200 or m...

anything over 16g is overkill for your application.

this site will answer any question you may ever have about car audio.

http://www.bcae1.com/

#16 is about wire. using a friendly length of 10' with 16g wire pushing 75rms @ 4ohm you will lose 0.17db, and anything less than 1db is inaudible.

you read a lie.

you are fine.

the same amount of power is going through the lines, you just have less resistance now.

sounds like you did not make good connections all the way around. check and recheck them, including the ring terminals to the wire.

yes it has been done many times and there are many threads about it.

a question on the topic... which may affect someone looking for a deck on a budget... I've talked to at least 3 people...and now myself is included..about the decks that have an AUX input for an Ipod or any mp3 player... not the IP bus connect, but just a headphone type jack on the front of the uni...