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Nothing like that, but most folks opinion (here anyway) will lean towards not liking the bodykit idea. More folks lean towards the "function over form" way of doing things. A bodykit is a visual mod that does nothing for the car performance-wise. Not to say the Mopar side skirts and lipkit aren't o...

wait... what just happened?

Come on guys, be nice. He was talking about the Neptune RTP... for a honda! Hondas and neons are two completely different animals...

i think what he's trying to do is keep "messing up" by randomly posting until he has the required number of posts to sell stuff...

I've looked in the haynes manual and there are no instructions on how to remove the winshield wiper fluid reservoir...

I've had a carbon fiber hood for about a year now, and I don't have holes drilled in my hood, so I want to take it out.

Asanti, what has your car ran at the track? At the track, it runs low 17's :banghead: . Yeah laugh all you want but the motor's been built for top end power. Anyone can beat me off the line I'll readily admit to that here and now. On highway runs, I've either kept pace or beaten several cars includ...

will the magnaflow cats still have the check engine light?

The non-fouler mod is just a cheap fix...

wait... I know it's the fuse in the box under the hood, and it's between spare and MTV... i just forgot what it's called...

oh whoops... never mind.

Well, in that case,
My first suggestion is an AF/X or Mopar Performance ECU/PCM. I think you have to run premium fuel though...
Or, get a Cold air intake
or, get an underdrive pulley

go with one or all three!

the economy is not in the best shape right now. You need to try and convince him that you're in no real hurry to buy the thing, but since you took 14 pictures and you're drooling on it, it may be too late... I agree with everyone else telling you to talk him down. Tell him you looked up the blue boo...

invest some money into your suspension. Keep your ride the way it is for right now and screw the struts. Yes, that's right I'm telling you to neglect your suspension for a moment. At this point in your life you don't have children. There's nothing a child in the back seat would hate more than a roug...

Ntyvirus1 wrote:so cross drilled and/or slotted rotors are fine as long as you stay away from ebay?

I agree with the crab on this one too....
I would guess that the ebay slotted rotors are more structurally sound than drilled.

save your money. It's what i tell everyone on here that wants to go fast in their neon. Keep this as your daily driver because the NGC is a great program for daily drivers. Not so much for the performance crowd... i'll save you the trouble. Read about the NGC and you'll learn that you have a car tha...

....why wouldn't your old coolant work?

and quite appropriate since he goes to school for "Computer Engineering Technology, and Computer Science."

bone-yard-racing wrote:If everything is direct fit stuff you wont be able to get much with out crash bolts. If the struts are aftermarket with slots you should be able to get at least -1.

what? i think he's getting a set of coilovers from Tein??

So what I'm hearing is that since I have countersunk rotors, all I would have to get is the carbon ceramic pads? And for your information I didn't get my rotors from ebay. My stock rotors (still in good shape at 50k) just bugged the sh*t out of me because they were all rusted and gross looking behi...

my mistake.

I could have sworn it looked like a first gen. DOHC manifold... but then i edited my first post because it looked like the throttle body position wasn't sticking straight up... made me rethink my statement.

I understand where you are coming from, I truly do. I have had the drilled and slotted rotors on my car with great results. It's a personal and informed choice I made, and I don't have any second thoughts whatsoever. I realize they're not for everyone..... I guess my question is then, I see a lot o...

if you decide to get the projectors, don't do eyelids. I almost didn't pass inspection because of the vinyl... Do the HID conversion and get a set of black housing projectors. The black on yellow will look great. Also, by black housing, don't get the stock looking ones with the black thing around th...

good going guys.

Yeah, i just disagree with the fact that we have a CAI stock and our resonators are great etc.

I do agree that our resonators sit in a good spot, but as i stated earlier: there's no flow there! If you take the resonator out you have a better setup than stock.

send him a pm...

that is definately a DOHC intake manifold. I heard (on another post) that you'd have to open up your intake ports on the block for it to work...

let me know how if it works out for you

I thought it was pearlescent paint at first!

I'm just gonna throw this out there as a jackass SRT driver... It's not a neon! Neon's are a completely different car...The bodies aren't even the same. I mean look at them...there is not resemblance what so ever between the two. The SRT has an aurora around it while the neon is just a car. I don't...

TheRandom1 wrote:Don't ceramic pads make a lot of noise though?

i couldn't answer this post because i had just written my epic long brake guide... thanks 2gn mods!

but i was going to say that metalic/semi-metalic brake pads will squeak. Ceramic will be fine.

Fail. SRT-4 was the fastest car under 20k ($19,995 or something similar). 2004 models were a bit more expensive, most coming in at 21 or 22k (mine was $21,810 after everything). The ACRs and commemos were a few grand more than that. Tell your dad I'll give him a ride in my "Neon" that with mods has...

I beg to differ....

unbolt the resonator, take it out, and look at it.

I'll wait....


there is only one opening in the resonator. It's the size of a quarter... SIDEWAYS! it's a tiny slit. That tells me that the engine is trying to suck up air through a straw!

well, i think anything is better than my cheap plastic pieceacrap manifold right now. It's no secret that the manifold is restrictive. If/when i get mike to make me one it's going to be a long runner because I like power down low, and lots of torque.

I saw these pictures my friend put up of him auto crossing his Honda Accord. I laughed so hard I had to share them! http://photos-a.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v153/38/17/33605482/n33605482_31823336_7791.jpg http://photos-b.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v153/38/17/33605482/n33605482_31823337_806...

WAIT!!! Stick with a solid rotor. Cross drilling decreases the structural integrity of the rotor and if you do any heavy braking the rotor could warp, crack, die, etc. you are also decreasing the surface area of the rotor and therefore braking distance is increased . As for the argument that cross d...