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Well its an SRT swap. I have the infamous CEL lights for not having the NVLD. Since mine is a 2002 I'm running the LDP pump instead of the NVLD pump. I have the NVLD pump in hand but I need to figure out what these LDP wires are first.

EDIT: Found the diagram I needed! Look below to see what I found with the plugs. Here is what I soldered together: SRT White/DG to Neon White/DG SRT Orange to Neon Yellow SRT Black to Neon Blue/WT That didn't seem to get rid of the CEL so I'm just going to reground the ground wire and run it to its ...

Well it started working again. When I went back outside I just started it up and they worked. Where would a bad ground be or wiring? It may happen again I'm thinking.

congrats on the 1000th post! I'm workin towards 15 myself.


Good News!! Gauges started working. All I did was wait 15 minutes of not moving then turn the key and they worked....weird. Anyone know why?

I put the UDP on my 02 neon and the engine light comes on at WOT. It always goes off after a while. well it hasn't gone off in like a week so I was at a red light and turned my car off and did the key dance to see if the codes changed at all. They didn't change and it said done and I started the car...

I thought maybe timing. But here is the thing that is weird. I don't FEEL any misses. Don't you usually feel the car hesitate like you are letting up on the gas really fast? Every car that I have road in that had a miss did that. Not mine. I have a new theory. I was doing some reading and I found th...

yes but this is below 5000 rpm now lol.

alright, here is a video. There was also this weird noise that sounded like it was coming right from where the belt is. There were just a few random clunks.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uCwVJOXWSEU

well the wires and plugs both have only 20k miles. This is a definite misfire. I can hear the clunking :(. But yeah, its 2002. Maybe thats why the light blinked when I was at WOT and only then. I wonder if this is somehow related to me not having the PS/AC belt on. I wouldn't think that would do any...

So...I got the check engine light to stay on...pulled the codes. It was just blinking on and off at WOT. Now its staying on. P0300 (M) Multiple Cylinder Mis-fire Misfire detected in mulitple cylinders P1684 Battery Loss in the Last 50 Starts The battery has been disconnected within the last 50 start...

So if you have alot of electrical components such as a big system, tvs, neons etc you shouldnt get the udp? why? Don't. You don't want to be sitting at a light at night and need a jump. Your alternator charges your battery. With a smaller, lighter weight pulley the engine spins easier and more powe...

lol, yeah, I'm going to the performance route. I know all about it. I actually have it in my hand now. I decided to start looking for install tips last night and finally came across a how-to. I would just buy the 3-jaw puller because this is my third time needing one. But an A-insert...wha?! lol. Ma...

so...I looked at 03neonRTs how-to on installing the UDP. It said I needed a 3-jaw puller and an A-insert. I don't even know what an A-insert is lol. But anyways, do I really need to run to autozone and pick that stuff up now?

thanks

thanks for the help guys. Can someone explain what the half shaft mod is? Never heard of it before. I read the How-to but it didn't explain what it was.

btw, just to make sure the 2nd gen MTX neons already have the 52mm TB? Which would still be better over the 60mm right?

Yeah, so I'm trying to find out if the 1st gen throttle body will bolt up directly to the 2nd gen. I found a 52mm throttle body from a 1st gen that I would like to use on my 2nd gen with a 49mm throttle body.

let me know.

thanks.