2GN.ORG

$450 is without the $150-$200 set of springs (depending on shipping costs). You can find coilovers for under $1,000 if you look hard enough. I recall seeing them for $800 something. That's only a couple hundred more.

You can use something like a piece of string even. Wrap it around the pullies and measure.

I bought a Porter Cable, dual fan speed and fully adjustable temperature dial for like $30 or $40 from Lowe's. Works damn good!

Billet Specialties isn't cheap anywhere, lol.

DetergentCandy wrote:
I've never noticed a reduced life...
My current set of bulbs is 1+ years old.

How long did your old set(s) last?

NVM

OEM rated wattage bulbs. That is the correct answer before you say, "I said not OEM." :lol: Silverstar Ultra's are probably about as good as you'll get. Just remember when it comes to bulb life, performance takes away from life. They will not last as long as "regular" bulbs. I mean. I don't want bu...

Doesn't matter if you mix them. If it did, we wouldn't have synthetic blend oils now would we?

OEM rated wattage bulbs. That is the correct answer before you say, "I said not OEM."

Silverstar Ultra's are probably about as good as you'll get. Just remember when it comes to bulb life, performance takes away from life. They will not last as long as "regular" bulbs.

I bought the Gates kit ($85 on Amazon), and haven't had an issue in 30,000 miles with noise.

Don't forget the accessory belt tensioner pulley!

The low beams do not stay on when the high beams are on, either., in reference to your first post. Unless you don't click it in all the way, and instead just hold it. Or at least its like that in my car, which in your case, would be pretty annoying to have to hold all the time. Either way, I still ...

So you want to put HIDs where the high beams go, and leave the halogens where they are...and then just never use the halogens? Why wouldn't you just replace the low beam with the HIDs so you can actually have a high beam when you need it? The low beams do not stay on when the high beams are on, eith...

Thought you weren't supposed to turn HIDs on and off anyways? You'd have to do that when any other car comes by...

Kind of an ass move IMO if he "forgot" to mention that...unless he really did forget he didn't pay the car off?

Yes it's unsafe; output wattage is what you need to watch. That's what needs to stay at the factory rating, which seems to be 27.5W according to LSP. You'd need to install a new harness that could handle that bulb, plus with how much heat that will create, you may very well melt the housing. 120W is...

The brightest are going to be the highest wattage usually, but you'd need a new harness if more than the factory rated bulb. Other than that, you'd have to compare lumen output.

It may not be a sign of "improvement," but perhaps a sign of better fiscal responsibility? Not a bad place to start though.

Mine was caused by the large vacuum line coming off of the carbon canister being cracked. I sealed the cracks up with some cold wrap tape and Permatex.

sirvaliant_98 wrote:Check your fluid and if your low top it off and more than likely your chime will go away.

You could also change the pads that are low and probably causing a low reservoir level...unless you are losing fluid somewhere.

Krylon Fusion should work well, especially on the plastic parts.

OB wrote:It's all good. CA is too damn long!

Holy smoke Ty you're DONE WITH SCHOOL!?

Just noticed this as I never check this section since the meets are almost always farther away, lol.

Yes, I am finally done! Finished my last finals yesterday!

You'd want to look for a UV neon tube kit. The only problem is UV isn't really meant to light things up like "normal" lights, so you'll spend some money buying a powerful enough kit or kits.

IIRC, if you leave your key in the on position but don't start the car, it'll ding. That doesn't mean there's a code.

Is the cap gasket good?

It's not like it gets blown in across the state. I did get surface rust on my new calipers when I went to the bay and stayed about 100 yards away from the ocean right after I put them on. Unless you are pretty much "right on" the coast, it isn't a problem like it is back East anywhere there is road ...

Engine and computer.

:withstupid: Doesn't need to be a fancy one. A $40 unit will work. From what I've read, the trans codes don't always display in the cluster. The scan tool is also nice for clearing codes. A bit simpler than the battery disconnect method. But a trip the AutoZone will also get you any unseen P700 cod...

Found it and messed with it yesterday. No CEL and the idle is now smooth until the A/C compressor kicks on (though, it's not as bad as it was); not much I can do about that though if I want to stay cool.

Thanks guys!

More likely a bad sender than an off gauge needle unless it was messed with, but yeah, doesn't sound quite right.

Get an OBDII scan tool and see if any other trans codes are stored.