2GN.ORG

What are the spring rates of the coilovers? If they are pretty high, I would let them do more of the work. The bigger the sway bar, the higher the percentage of the connected spring will be added to the spring rate of the corner under load. So if you are running 500lb/in springs and ridiculously lar...

For the motor, nothing from the TB in. Exhaust only cat-back.

Just playing with the settings. From what I gather, TPS based accel, when tuned correctly, can do a better job of getting rid of lean spikes when you jump on the throttle quickly instead of rolling onto it. It still doesn't work great when it's cold, but I have it stable at temps over 160 or so. And...

Not at all. Just left it alone. I did, however, hook the ASD relay to the fuel pump lead, just in case the stock ECU got the bright idea to get mad at me and shut down over not seeing an ignition connected.

From what I understand, you need the MS2 chip to do it on our IACs. I just left mine up to the stock computer. Works fine.

It starts pretty good on gasoline, but it takes a little longer on ethanol. I'd say just load mine right up, but my maps go above 100kpa... :) It also happens to be the first NGC running on MS. So it would probably run if you just threw it in and tuned it, but resolution isn't perfect, seeing as the...

You're using the stock crank wheel? If so, I'm pretty sure you're only the 2nd NGC guy to run it.

Statistically, autocross is the most difficult, in driver inputs per second. Of course, that really doesn't mean much, seeing as certain vehicles could require tons of skill on the drag strip, and there's been some pretty lousy autocross tracks that don't require much skill.

Maybe the turbo PT.

A 50 shot is enough to rip your balls off in comparison to what you've been feeling. It's not spraying.

Just don't go too low on the air. Most street tires tend to cup when you get too low. Then you're just using the very edge of the tread and some sidewall, and that's no good for traction either.

Hey, I've run a 14.0 on 175/70-14 All seasons.

Block casting, yes. Cylinder head, no.

Download mine:

http://www.racing-midwest.com/erick/ms/current.msq

Don't use it, as it's set up for the NGC. Just compare cranking settings.

THe clunk is more likely your ball joint, seeing as the standard way to replace it is to unbolt the ball joint. Check that bolt first.

The injectors will always have power. Check your cranking settings.

With that many miles, it's going to need a cleanup bore. If you are going to run pump gas, I'd recommend the lower compression, but if you are going to run race gas or e85, feel free to do stock compression.

Every time I have an opportunity, I blow up a trans or something...

I've been trying to get to a dyno, but it never seems to work out. To pull a 14.0 on 8psi, and then bump it up to 11.5, I have to assume I'm in that range. I might have to play with timing up top to ensure the whp number though.

1 or 2 steps colder. I use NGK BKR-7s. (If I remember the part number right...

e85, 11.5psi, megasquirt revving to 7200 with more aggressive timing... Last time I had it out, intake temps were over 120 at the end of the track, and almost 110 after cooling back down for more 14.0s and that was on 3.5psi less boost. Put it on the track on a 70 degree day, and I wouldn't be surpr...

You'll definitely want to stay in lower gears as long as possible. You don't run out of breath with those mods as fast as a stock motor does.

Spray would be cheap and the least amount of work.

What's the difference between the gear ratios that you're trying to figure out? And where in the powerband will you be following the shift? And no, I'm not talking about horsepower. Horsepower is just a calculated number to brag to your friends about. I'm talking about the actual force turning the w...

It all depends on the torque at the wheels before and after the shift. With a stock motor, power is usually pretty good all the way to redline, but once you start changing things and allowing more air in and out, the airflow limits of the head will make the torque drop at higer RPM more pronounced. ...

Well, I can't explain it either, but Mike Carpenter (Co-author of the neon book) said even though his shift point was 7600, he had to shift at 7000 into 4th so he could break into 14's. There's a point in the torque curve that it loses so much power that it's not worth revving that high even with t...

I had no problem leaving idle up to the stock ECU, and it doesn't surge much at all, unless it's too lean. I idle around 13.5:1 a/f ratio and it stays level.

I'm the guy with the 04, but I haven't done internals. My boost gauge shows 11.5psi on stock internals. Megasquirt, e85. The thing pulls like a banshee, and the motor has never shown any signs of failure after around 20k miles. I'd be surprised if I'm not making 240-250 ft/lb of torque at the wheels...

You have to make one. Find a flange and go to town with a welder.