2GN.ORG

Hmm...I seem to have the same problem although I have the key, ignition, pcm, rke unit, and skim module from my swap car. Could mine have died due to me still having my R/T skim module on the column? Could it have not been sending the code to the SRT skim? I really would like an answer or idea becau...

Yeah sorry I switched carriers again. I posted it on neontuners though. Anyways... well the car will be done tomorrow I have to run to the hardware store and get some bolts but all that is left is axles, interior wiring and fuel tank. If your not doing anything tomorrow let me know, and extra set of...

Well all I have left to do is rewire the car put in the NVLD pump, raise the tank and drop the motor in. Hopefully it will start tomorrow night.

I do need a favor though. Does anyone have a picture of where to mount the coolant bottle?

Yeah I removed the screws. Its out now. My motor is finally out and I'm going to be doing the fuel pump, fuel line, and emissions tonight. Possibly the a/c stuff too.

OK I'm in the middle of doing the swap..my motor is out and I'm putting the SRT Engine bay harness is. How the hell do I disconnect the engine bay harness inside the car? I've found the little box it plugs into up under the dash by the clutch pedal and i've pulled the red locking tab out but the dam...

He got that item from the list that I created and with my swap parts, I'm getting it included so I thought that I would list it. But I've heard you can use your original pad.

key pad = remote for keyless entry

Will my A/C dryer and condensor work with the 03+ A/C lines? Do I nee d the battery tray?

Dawm dynoed 145 modded and 136 stock.

BTW, i will be using my stock brake setup. What is the ABS Module? The silver blcok where the brake lines come out of?

Is it absolutely necessary to have to install the ABS parts when doing the SRT swap? If it is, what exactly do I need? Here is the parts list I have so far. Engine Transmission All Engine and Transmission Mounts Intercooler Piping Intercooler Complete Engine Wiring Harness Complete Engine Bay Wiring...

Did you have to cut the front bumper at all? If so, do you have any pics of what to cut?

caustic neon wrote:The PT valve train is only for the dohc motors.

While thats true, he is planning a 2.4L head swap. All 2.4L's are DOHC.

You wont be able to use the SRT headgasker due to different oil and coolant drainback holes, just use the MOPAR headgasket. I would rebuild it with the complete PT Cruiser valvetrain, roughly $180 through discounted sites. If you want to use overbored pistons you must overbore your block. Also, if y...

Tokico blues are actually warrantied and designed for dropped vehicles. I thinks they warranty up to 1.5-1.75in drop. So yes, you would be fine with them.

Just some cheap-o glue from Walmart.

I have the Mopar 2nd Gen Lowering Springs (not to be confused w/ high-rates) and Tokico Blue's. It's a great ride, corners really nice and is not bouncy at all. I would post pics but my car is in the shop right now.

I actually used the hotglue on my 1st gen and it only lasted about 6-8 weeks before it started to break apart into chunks. Made a real mess too.

I was going to mention something, but thought it was just my connection, but yes...the site is creeping along. I'm sure it will be fixed soon though.

The SRT seats that have airbags in them look just like our R/T seats with different material on the bolsters. Other than that, I'm not sure what to do, maybe someone else can chime in.

Yes, we got it finished in under 2 hours. Actually, my buddys just kept throwing belts and eating them, after we removed the old bracket plate we looked at the tensioner wheel and the entire inside of it was gone. Its def. a DIY job.

Fair Warning: that motor mount bracket plate is a PITA to remove. It took me and my buddy about 2hrs to replace his, I've heard its best to have to people while doing this, one taking the bolts out and another working the jack...lots of up and downs.

I have heard that the 2nd gen tranny is stronger, but like i said, its just hear-say. Maybe someone else will chime in and elaborate more on it.

Diablo, is that $107 for both or $107 each?

I once posted over on detroitneonowners.org about the sound below 2k rpms and a member over there said that is is normal....he said that I was "lugging" the trans because the rpms were so low. Now I shift at 3.5k and I get no noise.

I would say they are a great idea...especially if you autox. The rear bar has two settings, street and race. When I bought mine I had the rear set on street and then when I switched my struts out I changed it to race. On the race setting the backend does like to get a little slide happy on wet pavem...

Did you hear them "snap" on when you installed them? If not, I would double check the install.

LOL...that was a good one

Yes

I like my hotchkis set....29mm front and 24mm adjustable rear..both hollow.