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I have done so much searching that my head is starting to spin and I don't know anymore what information is valid. I drive a 2003 Neon R/T with the performance transmission, and I'm going to be changing the transmission fluid soon for a number of reasons. I need the syncros to last as long as I have the car, and I don't want to be using an improper fluid. I just bought it at 37000 miles used, and want the fluid to be fresh. I have read numerous posts talking about how the proper NVG-T350 MTL fluid is the best for the neon's tranny, but that it also eats up syncros in other posts. I don't know why DCX changed to ATF+4 in the 2003+ trannys besides what i read about making it easier to stock at the dealers. My car has a yellow sticker on the transmission telling me to use ATF+4, which I'm guessing is also in the tranny right now. Would it be safe for me to use atf+4 again, or should I change to the old tranny fluid used in the 95-02 neons? Mainly i'm chaning it because I want to know it is brand new fluid since I bought the car used, but also sometimes I have problems going into reverse (which is normal I've read http://forum.2gn.org/viewtopic.php?t=12 ... erse+grind
) but now sometimes it get's "blocked" going into 1st gear. The shifter is also notchy at times, but fine other times. If I let the clutch out and push back in, it will slide in fine. I've heard that this is a symptom of the fluid going bad. I need help here, please, and tell me what fluid you are using. I have no problem chirping tires from 1st to 2nd, if that helps any.

hmmm..i use vavoline atf+4 in mine

Ok, Ive been meaning to research the various parts on the NT-350 trani to see what the difference is between the two and why they switched to ATF+4 in 2003. As of right now, all seals,bearings,shafts, etc.etc.. are all the same part number wich means there all interchangeable....
I cant find any TSB's or conrete evidance that you can or cannot use ATF+4 in the NT-350 trani. So As of right now, All I can say is this much, use your best judgment on the fluid, im thinking of switching myself to see what happens before my drivetrain warranty is up.....

Thanks for your effort Chris.

It really helps to have a proactive person work at the dealership.

racer12306 wrote:Thanks for your effort Chris.

It really helps to have a proactive person work at the dealership.

I try
I'f I get a chance, I'll ask a muscle car guy at work if he knows why they switched the fluids...

I am using Valvoline ATF+4 in mine too and no problems yet. If you are a bit notchy you may wan to check your fluid level and either top off or drain and fill again.

BlackRoseRacing wrote:

racer12306 wrote:Thanks for your effort Chris.

It really helps to have a proactive person work at the dealership.

I try
I'f I get a chance, I'll ask a muscle car guy at work if he knows why they switched the fluids...

I talked to him first thing this morning as one of my many things to do
OK,
Reasons:
#1 - In colder weather using the ATF+4 helps in shifting
#2 - ATF+4 is cheaper
#3 - ATF+4 its widely used, always available, and is "Cheaper"
With that said, I would say if you want to spend the $15 a quart for factory fill then so do it. But you can also use ATF+4 wich protects the internals just as good, its a full synthetic, and is cheaper
As for the protection, if your syncro's are shot now, switching to the ATF+4 is not going to help you at all.......
Another question I asked is if you were to switch to ATF from the MTF does the trani have to be flushed. He stated for normal conditions like everyday use "No". Under extreme conditions, it would not hurt...

So to answer everyones question, you can use either ATF+4 or the MTF for the T350.....

how many quarts does the transmission take?

buy 3, it takes a little less than that.

^^^
about 2.75 qts roughly to fill it....

filling procedure? what tool/pump do i need to get he oil in? i want to do this because i'm not happy with my tranny performance.

Thanks BRR for doing some great researching. I've come to the decision to use Mopar ATF+4 which I bought at wal-mart at 4.75 a qt. Latief, I'm changing it this saturday and I'll fill you in on some info once I get it done. From what I see, it's very easy. Drain the fluid from the drain hole, should be marked, and then fill it back up in the plugged fill hole. I bought a funnel with a long tube attached to do this easily. Another alternative would be to take of the backup light switch and pour it in there until it starts to run out of the fill hole.

I just ran a long hose to the fill hole and used a gear lube type nozzle atachment on the end of the QT bottle and just filled it that way. Its a major PIA but it worked...

ATF4 sux, the old "manual transaxle fluid" were replaced for ATF4 to reduce costs but the quality is much lower.

The "manual transaxle fluid" is stupidly expensive, i would go for a full syntetic one like the synchormech .

I switched to Amsoil synchormech and noticed a change the first time. I love how it smoothed everything out.

Well I just changed my fluid today. New Mopar ATF+4. Very easy to do, and I filled it in the reverse light switch. Didn't notice too much, but I'd say it's a little smoother.

did you just unplug the switch and pour the oil in? are you sure the oil went to the right place?
thanks for info, i will be doing this shortly.. i'm thinking amsoil though if i can find it locally...anyone know if autozone or advance auto parts carry it?

Napa?

Well I unhooked the wire, then unscrewed the switch. I think it was a 7/8. After about 2.6 qts, look into the hole, and stop filing when it starts to run out. Let it settle, and your good to go.