2GN.ORG

Well, recently i purchased the Eibach Pro Kit and for the past couple of days i've been trying off and on to install them. I followed and printed out the guide found here http://forum.2gn.org/viewtopic.php?t=10341 i have all the correct tools (no spring compressor though) but i cannot get that damn bolt to budge AT ALL. I've sprayed more then enough WD-40 on it, so i don't know if i'm just to weak or if i'm trying to do it wrong. I've looked around to see if there was different strategies i could follow but am unsure of if there are similarities between different vehicles as the guide shown above is the only one i could locate for the Neon specifically. Basically in the guide i'm stuck at the 6th. picture down, i'm suppose to keep the plug socket still and just push the top ratchet on the nut counter clock wise, correct ? Anyway, any help/advise would be appreciated fellas, thanks in advance


Edit.. Sorry, thought i was posting this in the suspension forum. My bad

if you are talking about the nut to get the top part of the strut off, good luck unless you have aa spring compressor and an impact wrench, you'll be like a dog chasing his tail if you dont get those two items.

Yeah, that about sums it up lol. You think this strategy might work for me found here http://www.focushacks.com/index.php?modid=54 ? Just the rear part mind you.

first things first go to autozone and rent a spring compressor you can not do this safely with out one. TRUST ME . Remove the strut then compress the springs then remove the strut top hat then remove the spring. but wile you are at autozone pick up a haynes manual. That book will tell you how to do everything on your car the correct way.

YES GET A COMPRESSOR. Sorry, I typed it in caps because it is muy importante to do this correctly. You can not say that you have all the tools to do it but then say you do not have a compressor. The compressor will save, your life. You release that top and the spring goes BOING into your chin, nose, head, face, etc...

Sorry to sound so intense, I am just worried about your health in replacing car parts. Autozone and most otherr major autoparts stores have rental programs, where you can just rent the proper tool, for free, just a deposit is needed, and you can do that with a Credit Card. Good luck!

kc2002acr wrote:YES GET A COMPRESSOR. Sorry, I typed it in caps because it is muy importante to do this correctly. You can not say that you have all the tools to do it but then say you do not have a compressor. The compressor will save, your life. You release that top and the spring goes BOING into your chin, nose, head, face, etc...

Sorry to sound so intense, I am just worried about your health in replacing car parts. Autozone and most otherr major autoparts stores have rental programs, where you can just rent the proper tool, for free, just a deposit is needed, and you can do that with a Credit Card. Good luck!

Sorry, i just meant i have all the tools that are needed by FOLLOWING THE GUIDE that got posted <oddly enough> at this site. Is the guide wrong ? And quite frankly at this point i'm so frustrated with the whole process i'm about to just take a grider to the stockers

If I were you, this is what I would do; go to autozone, buy a haynes manual, rent a spring compressor, and then go home and read... that is what I did, and honestly, it really is not all that hard, just time consuming. I did mine in less than 5 hours, but I took my time, and made sure everything was right, tight, and ready to roll once I dropped her back on the ground.

That write up is fine, I do believe it has good info, but the haynes manual is better.

kc2002acr wrote: If I were you, this is what I would do; go to autozone, buy a haynes manual, rent a spring compressor, and then go home and read... that is what I did, and honestly, it really is not all that hard, just time consuming. I did mine in less than 5 hours, but I took my time, and made sure everything was right, tight, and ready to roll once I dropped her back on the ground.

That write up is fine, I do believe it has good info, but the haynes manual is better.

If the write up is fine then what is the spring compressor for ? He didn't use one..Which is why i read it to begin with. Well, one thing is for sure what i'm doing now IS NOT working lol.

kc2002acr wrote: If I were you, this is what I would do; go to autozone, buy a haynes manual, rent a spring compressor, and then go home and read... that is what I did, and honestly, it really is not all that hard, just time consuming. I did mine in less than 5 hours, but I took my time, and made sure everything was right, tight, and ready to roll once I dropped her back on the ground.

That write up is fine, I do believe it has good info, but the haynes manual is better.

Quoted for the truth.
I've done my springs about 3 times over, and a compressor is THE ONLY WAY TO GO.

if you aren't going to use your stock struts again you can always just put a set of vice grips on the piston and then turn the nut. used this before as a method but its definately not ideal or very safe.

You're re-using the stock struts?

^so what if he is? im riding on stock struts in my 04... stock struts from my 00 that is...

you will need a spring compressor to put the springs on for sure. it will make it 10x easier. however, you dont really need one to take them off if you have air tools...if you got an air gun just take 2 wheels with tires still mounted, and have air in them. this makes spring remaoval quick and easy. lay your strut and spring assembly on the ground and prop one of the wheel up to the bottom of it also laying down. then put your air gun onto the top of the sturt bolt and put the 2nd tire behind the air gun. give it about a half inch to an inch of space between the air gun and the tire. then just pull the trigger on the air gun to unbolt the top bolt. when it comes updone it will just pop out into the tire, but not really go anywhere since the tires will stop it. you might need to kinda put your foot on the strut to either hold it in place so it stays inbetween the tires as you undo the bolt with the air gun. also make sure it is lined up with the tires good so when it comes undone it doesnt miss the tire and cause some damage to you or anythign/one around you. if you use this technique and are not famialr with it then i suggest being real careful if you try it. im not responsible if something happens. but yeh also try pouring some coke into the top hole where that bolt is and let it sit for a little. i did that on my srt struts that had that bolt rusted on there and it seemed to help break them loose.

here is a ghetto pic to help describe the technique i was talkin about a little better.....

i simply love the drawing hahaha not a bad idea though

Nick Drake wrote:You're re-using the stock struts?

Yes, but only for a short time hopefully. They have prolly about 20.5k ish miles as they were new at around 32k. So i hope they can get me by for a little while.

Refect...

That is pretty clever haha. Love the picture I notice the whole thing is out so when i was trying to undo the bolt from inside the trunk i was attempting to remove the top (where the air gun is located) piece off ? I don't even so how that'd be possible with all the pressure forcing up. Not sure how the guy in the guide got it off like that, didn't work for me anywho. I don't have air tools so guess i'm investing in a spring compressor.. Dammit lol.

StoneWhiteR/T wrote:if you aren't going to use your stock struts again you can always just put a set of vice grips on the piston and then turn the nut. used this before as a method but its definately not ideal or very safe.

you can use the vice grips as long as you grab on the the shaft at its highest point (near the hat). slide the bumpstop down and that way you don't have to worry about the groves you make with the vise grips going down into the strutbody.

if you mean the big bolt in the middle of the strut tower there is way to ghetto rig up a tool to remove it quite easily but i dont remember the sizes off hand....i will check for you when i get home in a few hours and let you know

1/4 in. drive ratchet
long extension
13/16 in. spark plug socket
a box wrench to turn above socket
10mm socket to hold damper shaft


put the extension on the the ratchet and slide the extension through the spark plug socket.....then put the 10mm socket on the extension so the ratchet goes through the plug socket.....put the 10mm socket on the center nut and slide the spark plug socket down as far as it will go....then hold the ratchet tight and use the box wrench to turn the spark plug socket and your good to go

Well, broke down and bought a spring compressor while i was out tonight. Now i just need to find a guide(s) all over again that use them

I'm assuming i just need to jack up the ass end, take the tire off and apply the spring comp. and that'll allow me to take off the bolt on the top from in the trunk, correct ?


Edit. Well, looking at what i got which is found here http://www.autozone.com/in_our_stores/l ... g_tool.htm i'm wondering if that's the right tool ? I got kinda talked into that one when i wanted to actually purchase this one http://www.autozone.com/in_our_stores/l ... ressor.htm Hope it'll work


Edit #2. While i'm at it and have everything off i think i'm gonna paint my calipers & maybe even my rotors <-- Not sure if your suppose to do that or not. Just wondering what type of paint would be recommended, i'm thinking of painting my calibers red and if it's possible to do rotors, do them black. Shoulda did it when i changed my pads last week but didn't wanna use the wrong type of paint.

ugh... buy a o2 sensor socket... it has a open end, with a offest crows foot... it will work perfectly on a stock strut to remove the top not.



they are $3 at napa/pep boys/autozone. And then use a 10mm on the strut it self to hold in place.

I've gone from stock to Teins Coilovers, form Tein coilovers back to stock, stock to IPP coilovers, and then IPP back to stock. The o2 sensor socket was used each time and it worked like a champ!

Karizmatik wrote: Edit. Well, looking at what i got which is found here http://www.autozone.com/in_our_stores/l ... g_tool.htm i'm wondering if that's the right tool ? I got kinda talked into that one when i wanted to actually purchase this one http://www.autozone.com/in_our_stores/l ... ressor.htm Hope it'll work

That top one is perfect, will work fine... you will be tired after doing it though

Karizmatik wrote: Edit #2. While i'm at it and have everything off i think i'm gonna paint my calipers & maybe even my rotors <-- Not sure if your suppose to do that or not. Just wondering what type of paint would be recommended, i'm thinking of painting my calibers red and if it's possible to do rotors, do them black. Shoulda did it when i changed my pads last week but didn't wanna use the wrong type of paint.

dont paint the rotos, it will eventually wear off, be a waste of money - I dont even know if that would be good idea too - calipers are however easy to do, you can buy a duplicolor kit from any Walmart/Autoparts store... the are like 15$.

Haha, long as it works. I can rest Sunday

Yeah, i was kinda iffy on the rotors but have seen them painted before, just didn't know how that'd effect the pads, figured it'd just take the paint right off them. Thanks for all your help guys, i really appreciate it, i'll show off some before and after pics tomorrow

you dont put the spring compressor on until the strut is off......take out the two bolts holding the strut to the lower control arms and then take out the 3 on top of the strut tower, but not the middle one.....the strut will slide out of the car......THEN apply the spring compressor and remove the middle nut

^^^ All info is good, but I did one thing different - with strut in the car still, I loosened the strut bolt just enough to break it free, so when I had the strut off, it was easier to remove without having to hold it in a vise. Just a tip.

^hmm thats a good idea....ya the vise sucked lol

Well, i just got the back done and i must say it looks HIGHER imo. 1st pic is a before and 2nd is after.





I dunno, must have did something wrong Maybe after i do the front it'll lower the back ? I doubt it, dammit!

And yeah, i tried to do it your way kc2002acr but i couldn't get either side to break while still attached. I was able to when i could lay it on the ground and stand on the rachet while turning the socket.

Well, here she is all finshed up...





Now to go give her a nice washing So tomorrow it can look like shit all over again...Stupid snow

you put your springs on backwards.......
i did the same thing once

You gotta be shittin me lol. So I gotta switch the backs to the fronts and fronts to the backs ? Or u mean i put them in upside down ? That would explain why the backs didn't drop.. Gah

front to the back
back to the front

yea, same expression i had when i realized what i did wrong.
I've done my springs about 3 times before i finally got it right.