EDIT: Couple more gauge questions at bottom. Help please

danman132x · Post by **danman132x** » Mon Mar 05, 2007 11:00 am

I just ordered a Phantom II Electric Oil Pressure Gauge 7527 (90 degree) and need one more Phantom II Gauge to go with it. What should I get? Volts or Tranny Temp for a manual? I'm getting the A-Pillar pod from ModernPerformace.

Post by **racer12306** » Mon Mar 05, 2007 1:03 pm

i wouldnt worry about tranny temp.

id go with the volt gauge.

MoparNeonMan · Post by **MoparNeonMan** » Mon Mar 05, 2007 1:58 pm

Unless your doing the 24hrs of Daytona, trans temp would be a waste...especialy on an MTX.

Volt gauge

Post by **jonnymopar** » Mon Mar 05, 2007 2:29 pm

I say all you need is oil pressure, but if you're really wanting another gauge, go voltage.

Another thing, you're gonna love the way the Phantom II gauges look. I love mine.

danman132x · Post by **danman132x** » Mon Mar 05, 2007 5:54 pm

I would just use the oil gauge, but the A-Pillar pod from Modern only comes with 2 and 3 gauge holders. Now if I could easily get a hold of an srt dash, I would use the boost gauge spot for the oil pressure. Another question, where do you guys/gals wire up the lighting on the gauge so it comes on when you turn on your headlights?

Post by **racer12306** » Mon Mar 05, 2007 6:11 pm

according to moderns site they have single and dual gauge pods.

danman132x · Post by **danman132x** » Mon Mar 05, 2007 6:16 pm

hmmm? I'll double check, but looks like double and triple pillars to me.

hansken_yo · Post by **hansken_yo** » Mon Mar 05, 2007 9:12 pm

There is a post around here somewhere on how all the 03+ dashes have that space to connect the boost gauge... all you would need then is the pod....

if you still wanted 1 gauge/pod

Found it
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2092484/4
http://forum.2gn.org/viewtopic.php?t=8095&highlight=pod

Post by **racer12306** » Mon Mar 05, 2007 10:26 pm

early 03's did not have the provision as they were left over 02 parts. but later 03's and up had the provision.

danman132x · Post by **danman132x** » Mon Mar 05, 2007 10:30 pm

According to his how-to, we have the location to put the pod. Now where I'm lost is why he had to use hot glue to attach bolts to the pod. In the pictures, it looks like there are 2 holes for the pod to "snap" in place. If I go to the dealer to pick up the pod, will it include everything I need to actually attach it, or will I have to ghetto rig it with glue?

Post by **racer12306** » Mon Mar 05, 2007 11:05 pm

according to jonnymopar the early 03's do not have the ability to use a stock style mounting because they dont have the spot under the dash for the pod.

it you pull your dash cover off you should be able to see where it goes.

they hot glue is use when people dont have the provision for the pod, ie. cars made early 03 and older.

when you buy the pod all you get is the pod. then you need to get a screw or two and the little clip that the screw threads into. after looking stuff over it appears to be a very similar clip/screw as the radio uses.

Post by **Diablo0** » Tue Mar 06, 2007 1:20 am

For lighting there is a fairly large black wire and orange wire under the dash in the mess of wires that I tapped into for my gauge in the white car. You kinda have to dig for it and I wish there was more I could say but it's a fairly thick wire in comparison to the rest. It's the same wiring that the SRT boost gauge is connected to and works just like your normal gauges cluster with the dimming and everything. I just wish I could give you more information on exactly which wire

BlackRoseRacing · Post by **BlackRoseRacing** » Tue Mar 06, 2007 6:13 am

^^^
Now I should go and rewire my gauges properly...

^^^
My gauge location on an 02, no provisions like mentioned before to mount these pods, so a little cutting then glueing with TPO plastic repair and this is were the dash is at now. Its not finished yet since im waiting for warmer weather. The above was done in my garage with subzero temps outside and me staying warm with a propane heater

PS
J youv'e been pm'd...

kc2005ptgt · Post by **kc2005ptgt** » Tue Mar 06, 2007 10:01 am

I found mine in the steering column, on the left side (blinker, lights etc) on the plug - it is orange. There is also a green/pnk one I think works but no dimming.

danman132x · Post by **danman132x** » Wed Mar 07, 2007 10:13 am

Diablo0 wrote:For lighting there is a fairly large black wire and orange wire under the dash in the mess of wires that I tapped into for my gauge in the white car. You kinda have to dig for it and I wish there was more I could say but it's a fairly thick wire in comparison to the rest. It's the same wiring that the SRT boost gauge is connected to and works just like your normal gauges cluster with the dimming and everything. I just wish I could give you more information on exactly which wire

thanks for the information. It should come in helpful. Now one thing about tapping into the dimming wire. Can I blow a LED gauge if I tap into it and dim the cluster. Not that I actually dim it, but I have read LED's will blow if they are dimmed, and I dont want that to happen to my new gauge

danman132x · Post by **danman132x** » Thu Mar 08, 2007 7:54 pm

I have a couple more questions. If my Volt meter gauge only has two hook-ups for the volt reading, is it safe to hook directly to battery, or is there a chance of draining it if I hook it up directly. Also, the instuctions say to hook up an inline fuse with the ignition power cable for the oil pressure gauge with a 4 amp fuse. Do I need to fuse the volt gauge also. For the slplices, I'm using the "snapping ones" thatcut into the wire and lock. These alright? Thanks for advice. I'm going to search some more too so I make sure I get it all right the first time around.

Post by **racer12306** » Thu Mar 08, 2007 8:00 pm

i think you would want to hook the volt gauge into a switched source.

it would probably take a while to drain the battery but if you let it sit for a while, when you go to start it up, it may not.

kc2005ptgt · Post by **kc2005ptgt** » Fri Mar 09, 2007 12:56 am

I personally used to install car stereos for over ten years and not ONCE did I ever use those terminal taps you are talking about... I do not like them because I have seen many problems with them, such as not splicing through the wire completely giving a bad connection, and have seen them come off, have seen them burn up, and have seen them completely hack a wire in half... so that is my two cents... personally, I cut and butt-connect them together, than wrap it up in tape - I have NEVER had any of my installs to my knowledge EVER have problems that way.

Post by **racer12306** » Fri Mar 09, 2007 10:07 am

im with andrew on this one. dont mess with those things.

i cut the wire in half and use solderless connections. i either use a piggy back connector or i stuff two wires into one connector and then one wire into the other connector. wrap in tape and enjoy.

danman132x · Post by **danman132x** » Mon Mar 12, 2007 12:28 pm

I need a little advice. The Phantom II volt gauge has the LED lighting and ground, plain and simple. Now it also has the I, S, and G terminals. The very basic autometer instructions say not to use the S terminal, and only the ingnition and ground. I'm thinking to use the ignition as the on/off switch for the gauge, and the Sender wire straight to the battery for the best possible reading with few interuptions. Is this how you did it, and does it work well this way. Thanks for any advice you may give me. I read a post about this before, but cannot find it anymore.

Also is it safe to hook up my gauges to the dimming wire, or will dimming LED's blow them?

gilly02le · Post by **gilly02le** » Mon Mar 12, 2007 1:02 pm

just run the lighting for the gauge off of the dimmer wire for your headunit, as well as the power from that if you have a voltmeter. this way you will only see the voltage when the key is turned to acc or the car is running.

And NO, Dimming LEDs is fine and will not hurt anything.. its just less voltage so less light output... so you won't blow any bulbs by dimming them... and p.s its only like 16 dollars for the srt-4 boost pod.. why not just do what i did.. cut the mounting portion of the pod off.. and then carefully superglue it up into place, so that you don't see any glue afterwards... this way you only need a small hole for the back of the guage, and the wires to pass through.

Post by **racer12306** » Mon Mar 12, 2007 1:14 pm

or if he is lucky he already has the mounting spot for the srt pod and all he needs are two push in screw clips and 2 screws after he cuts a hole.

but he would need to pull the dash cover to check.

gilly02le · Post by **gilly02le** » Mon Mar 12, 2007 1:17 pm

very true.. and yea depending on if its an early or late model 03.. it may have the provision thing in there allready..

Post by **racer12306** » Mon Mar 12, 2007 1:17 pm

i did and it was REALLY simple to set up that pod. cut a little hole and poof its done.

if you want to see pics check out my project log

danman132x · Post by **danman132x** » Mon Mar 12, 2007 3:54 pm

I got my Modern Performance complete A-Pillar pod today. Not going for the srt-pod anymore. It looks nice mocked up. While installing the wiring and all the stuff, I will try to take pictures and make a How-To to help other people clear up some questions. (only if I have good pictures, etc...Other people could jump in with more advice and get proper credit too

) It will be about a week before I undergo this task. Hardest part I see right now is making the T-fitting for the stock and aftermarket oil senders. Wiring is no biggie once I find the wires I want to use. For the splicing, I think best way I'm doing it is to "shave" the outer insulation leaving the wire intact. Then I plan on wrapping around the other wire and using electrical tape. I dont think putting heat shrink will work this way, because I have tried cutting it apart before and it doesn't hold its form.

Post by **racer12306** » Thu Mar 15, 2007 11:05 pm

BlackRoseRacing wrote:

^^^
Now I should go and rewire my gauges properly...

if only i could read what that means. anyone that knows could you point me in the correct wire for illumination, please.

danman132x · Post by **danman132x** » Thu Mar 15, 2007 11:08 pm

From the looks of that diagram, I think the colors are abbreviated. OR-orange, BK-black, BK/NT-? When I pop my dash next week, I'm going to check out the connector I saw a few posts down. I think it was daboots(spelling). Said it has something to do with the srt boost gauge and should be able to use it for illumnation, and possible switched power.

edit: racer I see yours is in use. Hopefully mine will be free